I got the front signals - Page 2

jmesser · 12-18-2013, 08:36 PM

I just eyeballed it. I put them where I thought they looked the best which just happened to be closer to the fairing than some would prefer. I did think about the visibility when coming to a stop with the compression of the front forks but even with as far up as these signals are, they're still to other vehicles. I'm always on the look out for cars as it is. I think if we had big flags to point our direction on our bikes, the ppl in cars and trucks still would say they couldn't see us if an accident occurred. I happens too often that cars pull out in front me. More so when I had my Ninja but it does still happen. As for allowing enough slack, before I tied everything up I just turned the handlebars all the way to the left and right to allow for slow speed turns and compression. No problems so far.

smokey · 12-19-2013, 03:03 PM

Thanks for the info, I plan on going with two strips of amber led, one for turn and one for running lights. I will probably wire them into the same connectors the stock ones have inside the fairing, maybe put the bullet connectors on in case I decide to go back to stock. I hear ya about the other drivers, we could mount a .50 cal on the bike and they would still be too occupied to see us, probably be too busy admiring the .50 cal.

jmesser · 12-19-2013, 10:32 PM

The signal wiring actually isn't in the fairing. The light bar is simply bolted underneath the fairing and the wires just go through the light bar. Once you disconnect the three wires from the stock signals, you simply pull them through the light bar and you're ready to hook your new signals up. The blue wire is the running lights, the green is the signal, and the black is ground. The truwrapz signals come with a module that makes them both running and signals. Mine are set up this way therefore two sets of lights are unnecessary unless that's what you want. A load equalizer is needed to slow the flash rate to normal and you're ready to go. Super easy install and I couldn't be happier with the look and function.
As far as them being up too far, they're actually really visible. Even when coming to a quick stop the don't have anymore movement than the fairing does. As I applied the front brake, everything tips forward the same amount so I wouldn't think any visibility is lost of the signals. Maybe if you went off road and the front forks were really being worked they would tuck up under the front fairing but for blacktop roads. These are the way to go.

Not trying to be a smarta#@ about the offroad part, just giving an example of when front forks would be used enough to lose visibility of these lights. A speed bump at a good rate of speed would be another example.

timmer357 · 01-21-2014, 04:04 PM

I really want to do the signals (front and back) but all the bodywork intimidates me. Same reason keeping me from driving light accesory purchase.

ctc6698 · 01-22-2014, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmer357

I really want to do the signals (front and back) but all the bodywork intimidates me. Same reason keeping me from driving light accesory purchase.

Bodywork is really simple, timmer.....can do some real damage with a 4 and 5mm T-allen and a 10&12mm socket.
Download the service manual from top of this forum section and see what she's made of. I haven't had tank off, but raised and the rear fender is virgin. All other parts have been removed and it's a breeze (except for that dang allen bolt at bottom of side fairing behind crash bar....thanks Kawi)

ctc6698 · 01-22-2014, 10:19 PM

The guy that had my bike 1st, installed a Kury light bar(like on Streetglides and such) in the rear and also some Harley bullet signals mounted to the top of the crash bar. He removed the front signal bar. I took it a step forward and converted all to LED's using just red leds in rear and Custom Dynamic's Dynamic Ringz in front that give me driving lights and turn signals in one unit. Also install their run/turn/brake controller for rear light.

I did not use load equalizers, I went with their Signal stabilizer....a one time install that works with either all leds or mixed leds and incandescents.
Big Bike Parts sells a flasher module that's plug and play that I used on my Honda Fury, but I haven't checked if it works on the Vaquero's
Maybe someone else can chime in one that one. It was like a $25 led flasher that eliminated any need for hot load equalizers.

Here's pic of the driving lights which are actually just a ring of white led's

12-18-2013, 08:36 PM	#16
jmesser Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Kentucky Posts: 64	I just eyeballed it. I put them where I thought they looked the best which just happened to be closer to the fairing than some would prefer. I did think about the visibility when coming to a stop with the compression of the front forks but even with as far up as these signals are, they're still to other vehicles. I'm always on the look out for cars as it is. I think if we had big flags to point our direction on our bikes, the ppl in cars and trucks still would say they couldn't see us if an accident occurred. I happens too often that cars pull out in front me. More so when I had my Ninja but it does still happen. As for allowing enough slack, before I tied everything up I just turned the handlebars all the way to the left and right to allow for slow speed turns and compression. No problems so far. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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12-19-2013, 03:03 PM	#17
smokey Sr. Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Orleans, ON, Canada Posts: 1,162	Thanks for the info, I plan on going with two strips of amber led, one for turn and one for running lights. I will probably wire them into the same connectors the stock ones have inside the fairing, maybe put the bullet connectors on in case I decide to go back to stock. I hear ya about the other drivers, we could mount a .50 cal on the bike and they would still be too occupied to see us, probably be too busy admiring the .50 cal. __________________ Smokey Capt(retd) Canadian Forces National President CVFR (Canadian Veteran Freedom Riders) 2010 VN1700 Voyager, ABS www.cvfr.ca VBA #02220
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12-19-2013, 10:32 PM	#18
jmesser Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Kentucky Posts: 64	The signal wiring actually isn't in the fairing. The light bar is simply bolted underneath the fairing and the wires just go through the light bar. Once you disconnect the three wires from the stock signals, you simply pull them through the light bar and you're ready to hook your new signals up. The blue wire is the running lights, the green is the signal, and the black is ground. The truwrapz signals come with a module that makes them both running and signals. Mine are set up this way therefore two sets of lights are unnecessary unless that's what you want. A load equalizer is needed to slow the flash rate to normal and you're ready to go. Super easy install and I couldn't be happier with the look and function. As far as them being up too far, they're actually really visible. Even when coming to a quick stop the don't have anymore movement than the fairing does. As I applied the front brake, everything tips forward the same amount so I wouldn't think any visibility is lost of the signals. Maybe if you went off road and the front forks were really being worked they would tuck up under the front fairing but for blacktop roads. These are the way to go. Not trying to be a smarta#@ about the offroad part, just giving an example of when front forks would be used enough to lose visibility of these lights. A speed bump at a good rate of speed would be another example. Last edited by jmesser; 12-19-2013 at 10:34 PM.
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01-21-2014, 04:04 PM	#19
timmer357 Jr. Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 38	I really want to do the signals (front and back) but all the bodywork intimidates me. Same reason keeping me from driving light accesory purchase.
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