*** MEMBER NEEDS HELP! ***

[phenrichs]

Has he checked the vehicle down sensor to make sure it isn't loose? Probably not because it is something we rarely think of. It is located under the black plastic neck cover on the right side. It tucks partially up under the tank. Not sure what he has available for tools. If that little guy is bad or loosing connection it would cause no spark.

[phenrichs]

I have a co-worker chopping my manual up into smaller files that are more email friendly. If he can get internet access or at least email I will send him any sections he needs.

[dantama]

I just successfully googled Dennis Bailey's home phone, and desk phone. Yikes! He's a cop!

I left a voice mail, and then called the home phone and talked to his wife. She must monitor the scanner and said that he's out on a call, but she'd give him the message to call me when he's done with the call.

Perhaps he could work something out where he could take off his ignition switch, and put in on Utah's bike and see if that fixes everything.

[Todd]

He has the bezel off now. 'vehicle down' sensor should reset after an on/off cycle. The bike speedo is cycling again..the battery ground was just loose...........I told him to check all connectors and junctions for the switch wiring harness and make sure all circuits were had continuity.............really sounds like switch...never heard of an ecu going on these bikes

[waterman]

Originally Posted by todd (Nomadis Custodis)

He has the bezel off now. 'vehicle down' sensor should reset after an on/off cycle. The bike speedo is cycling again..the battery ground was just loose...........I told him to check all connectors and junctions for the switch wiring harness and make sure all circuits were had continuity.............really sounds like switch...never heard of an ecu going on these bikes

I'm looking thru the manual right now and that is the same thing I keep coming back to is a switch connection. The only other thing is to make sure he didn't hit the kill switch by accident.

[Todd]

I agree Joel...but it would not crank over if the kill switch was hit....that's the first thing I thought of and had to go the garage to remember that it wouldnt even crank over. The ignition switch has 2 "ignition" terminal leads into it....that connector might have gotten moisture or something to cause corrosion in it.

Now i gotta go put mine back together ::)

[dantama]

I recommended that he take his ignition switch in to the Kawi dealer there and see if they'd give him a loaner switch to go check on his bike if it makes everything work, or if they could test his.

If they aren't so co-operative, then perhaps Dennis Bailey would bring his switch down to him?

He appreciates your suggestions and says thanks.

[blowndodge]

I'm betting kickstand switch.....

[phenrichs]

I thought the KS switch worked the same way as the kill switch on the bars? As in it won't turn over.

Oh and in case anyone needs it, I got my pdf manual broken out into separate files. One for each chapter. Small enough to email now.

[dantama]

Dennis just called, and he has Utah's cell number now and will give him a call. He said he'd be able to help when he gets off work at 5:00

OP, give Jared a call and tell him you have your manual in case he needs it. His Cell is on CJ's first post on this thread. He doesn't even have his owners manual with him.

[waterman]

Originally Posted by Blowndodge "Darksider"

I'm betting kickstand switch.....

BD, can't you bypass that switch with a wire?

[blowndodge]

Just got off the phone with him. He's going to play with unplugging the kickstand switch and cleaning it. This question is it cranks and he has turn signals, fuel pump whine, head light tail light, getting full power. I'm only familiar with the kickstand switch allowing the motor to crank like its going to fire up but not starting. Kill switch will cause no cranking as the clutch lever switch too. I wasn't aware the ignition switch malfunction would allow the starter to turn and the injectors or coils not to fire.

I told Jared if he wanted to know for sure that he wasn't getting spark to do the radical test and hold the damn spark plug in your hand. Not fun but the results are conclusive!

Dennis was calling so we ended the call..

[phenrichs]

Originally Posted by Dan Lund

Dennis just called, and he has Utah's cell number now and will give him a call. He said he'd be able to help when he gets off work at 5:00

OP, give Jared a call and tell him you have your manual in case he needs it. His Cell is on CJ's first post on this thread. He doesn't even have his owners manual with him.

Calling......

[phenrichs]

Just talked to him and neither he, nor anyone that he is with currently has internet access or internet on their phone. He said that if he can get somewhere that he can get connected he will call me so I can get the manual to him. man I hope he has a charger for his phone.

Here is a general troubleshooting page from the 08 manual. Maybe this will help you guys that have phone contact with him.


17-28 APPENDIX
Troubleshooting Guide
NOTE
○Refer to Fuel System chapter for most of
DFI troubleshooting guide.
○This is not an exhaustive list, giving every
possible cause for each problem listed. It
is meant simply as a rough guide to assist
the troubleshooting for some of the more
common difficulties.
Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting
Difficulty
Starter motor not rotating
Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trouble
Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage low
Starter relays not contacting or operating
Starter button not contacting
Wiring open or shorted
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Fuse blown
Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t
turn over
Starter clutch trouble
Vehicle-down sensor coming off
Engine won’t turn over
Valve seizure
Rocker arm seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Balancer bearing seizure
No fuel flow
No fuel in tank
Fuel pump trouble
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel filter clogged
Fuel line clogged
Engine flooded
Clean spark plugs and adjust plug gaps
Starting technique faulty (When flooded, do
not crank the engine with the throttle fully
opened. This promotes engine flood because
more fuel is supplied automatically
by DFI.)
No spark; spark weak
Vehicle-down sensor coming off
Ignition switch not ON
Engine stop switch turned off
Clutch lever not pulled in and gear not in
neutral whether side stand up or down
Though clutch lever pulled in, side stand up
and gear not in neutral
Battery voltage low
Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
IC igniter in ECU trouble
Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch
trouble
Crankshaft position sensor trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Ignition switch or engine stop switch
shorted
Wiring shorted or open
Fuse blown
Fuel/air mixture incorrect
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Compression Low
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened
down
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or
sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent,
worn, or carbon accumulation on the
seating surface)
KACR (compression release cam) sticks
open (engine stalls when moving off)
HLA (hydraulic lash adjuster) damaged
(worn, seizure, or spring broken)
HLA oil passage clogged
Poor Running at Low Speed
Spark weak
Battery voltage low
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
IC igniter in ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Throttle body assy loose