Clutch issues

Stu · 11-01-2014, 08:42 PM

Okay. Not too long ago I switched the clutch spring to a Barnette's. I recently started getting more lifter noise. PO was using mobile 1 VTWIN 20w-50 oil. I read several posts that said that 20w-50 is too thick to get to the lifters, and can make them noisy.
My plan, run some seafoam in the crankcase, then switch to Rotella T-6.
Ran the seafoam for about 100 miles, and changed the oil today. I rode today, and after about 100 miles of riding, the clutch has issues.
Started with the handle not fully retracting back out. Then it felt like it wasn't fully engaged (like there was no power). Just pulled off into a big parking lot, and rode it around a bit. Last thing that happened was that, in gear, it was starting to roll, even with the handle fully pulled in.

I love the Barnett clutch spring. I'm curious, is this a factor of changing to the lighter oil? Or perhaps some side effect of using the seafoam?

FYI, this bike has over 60,000 miles on it, and I ride it almost every day. This is a completely new thing.

Any help or input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!

Bike :
2006 nomad 1600 (California model)
Chucksters single air intake
Chucksters cam chain extenders
Coasters
V&h pipes

dgconstable · 11-01-2014, 08:52 PM

Seafoam in the crankcase? hmmm

cactusjack · 11-01-2014, 08:59 PM

When was the last time you serviced the hydraulic clutch? By that I mean flush/change the fluid and bleed the system?

Stu · 11-01-2014, 08:59 PM

Yep.

**ringadingh** · 11-01-2014, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dgconstable

Seafoam in the crankcase? hmmm

Theres nothing wrong with doing that, Ive been adding Seafoam to the crankcase every year since Ive had the bike and never had a problem of any kind.

**ringadingh** · 11-01-2014, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cactusjack

When was the last time you serviced the hydraulic clutch? By that I mean flush/change the fluid and bleed the system?

Thats the first thing I'd do, if its still acting up, it may be the slave cylinder on its way south. Most likely is that you have crud in the bottom of the master cylinder on the handlebar. Drain the fluid, and clean the resevoir good, making sure the tiny holes in the bottom are not plugged with gunk.

Stu · 11-01-2014, 09:25 PM

It has been a couple of months. Clutch fluid is still clear. However, that is something I was going to look at. Maybe try bleeding the clutch lines to see if that helps?

Stu · 11-01-2014, 09:37 PM

Scott- I only bled the system, but in so doing I completely replaced the old fluid, it was orange to start with, and clear when I was finished.
Ring- that's why ill try tomorrow. At 60k+ miles, it probably does have gunk in it.
Love this forum. I'll let you know what i find tomorrow.
I'm thankful for having an option other than checking the clutch spring. Especially since that has seemed to work fine so far.

rolfe · 11-01-2014, 10:14 PM

I've backed off of Seafoam, but used to be a big user. Reason being all the ethanol in the gas. I switch between Marvel Mystery Oil and Lucas gas additives. I only put them in the gas. Been using Marvel for about 40 years and the Lucas the last couple years.
You being where you are the 20-50 should be good as what I use all the time in Lake Travis,Texas. The Marvel should loosen upper deposits after a while and along with Lucas to keep the rubber inside the engine/carburetor pliable. I never mix them together and usually run a couple tanks of gas without either. Its kind of funky using one or the other.
Another note is that I am not that keen on using the Barnett Spring vs. the Mean Streak Spring just my 2 cents.

cactusjack · 11-01-2014, 10:30 PM

I ran 20w50 in my 2007 Nomad during the summers because it gets so hot here. Didn't hurt a thing. I also ran Seafoam through the crankcase for 100 or so miles before an oil change with no ill effect.

**PNBR549@Bell** · 11-01-2014, 10:43 PM

rolfe: What, IYHM, is wrong with the Barnett spring?

rolfe · 11-01-2014, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PNBR549@Bell

rolfe: What, IYHM, is wrong with the Barnett spring?

Just not that impressed , its tight for sure. I'll flip back to the Mean Streak

**PNBR549@Bell** · 11-01-2014, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rolfe

Just not that impressed , its tight for sure. I'll flip back to the Mean Streak

Interesting! I have a meanie/judges and a Barnett waiting. Hope I won't need to make the change soon. Value the opinion of the members here. So, just wanted some feedback.

Ride Safe!

rolfe · 11-01-2014, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PNBR549@Bell

Interesting! I have a meanie/judges and a Barnett waiting. Hope I won't need to make the change soon. Value the opinion of the members here. So, just wanted some feedback.

Ride Safe!

There is no way I could have done the mechanical work on RED without the help of everyone here on this site. The knowledge is awesome, just read the shop manual's, surf the internet, check "gadget's nomad" page out.
Have all your parts, heavy grease for the 3 limiter springs, gasket plus exhaust gasket, etc..., and just take your time. Torque all Bolts per Specs.

From setup to shop tools put up/site & bike clean up 6hrs first time for me

You will notice a MAJOR IMPROVEMENT in your bike.

Silent Sam · 11-02-2014, 01:01 AM

...As to the problem you posted..I think it must be in need of a clutch fluid system-flush.

When my clutch first began slipping at around 45,000 miles (I run oil additives)..I decided to clean up the crankcase, and put in new oil -Shell Rotella T 15-40 with a can of Sea Foam.

I ran it for close to 2,000 miles...the clutch was still slipping....So went to the Barnett Clutch Spring (and ..back to my, "friction reducers")...No damage to anything running Sea Foam in the crankcase...and the Barnett Clutch Spring does not slip at all....(Be Advised the Barnett Clutch Spring will require aprox twice the "lever force" to disengage the clutch)

11-01-2014, 08:42 PM	#1
Stu Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 29	Clutch issues Okay. Not too long ago I switched the clutch spring to a Barnette's. I recently started getting more lifter noise. PO was using mobile 1 VTWIN 20w-50 oil. I read several posts that said that 20w-50 is too thick to get to the lifters, and can make them noisy. My plan, run some seafoam in the crankcase, then switch to Rotella T-6. Ran the seafoam for about 100 miles, and changed the oil today. I rode today, and after about 100 miles of riding, the clutch has issues. Started with the handle not fully retracting back out. Then it felt like it wasn't fully engaged (like there was no power). Just pulled off into a big parking lot, and rode it around a bit. Last thing that happened was that, in gear, it was starting to roll, even with the handle fully pulled in. I love the Barnett clutch spring. I'm curious, is this a factor of changing to the lighter oil? Or perhaps some side effect of using the seafoam? FYI, this bike has over 60,000 miles on it, and I ride it almost every day. This is a completely new thing. Any help or input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys! Bike : 2006 nomad 1600 (California model) Chucksters single air intake Chucksters cam chain extenders Coasters V&h pipes __________________ __________________ 2006 Kawasaki Nomad VBA # 02160 VROC # 35175 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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11-01-2014, 08:59 PM	#3
cactusjack Mega-Contributor Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Where it doesn't snow...ever! Posts: 21,926	When was the last time you serviced the hydraulic clutch? By that I mean flush/change the fluid and bleed the system? __________________ Scott "Cactusjack" Hanks VBA #00105 H.O.G. #4250060 2011 H-D Ultra Limited 103ci :: 2011 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited w/Stage 1 :: Rallies: Mesquite '08\|Custer '09\|Cortez '10\|Crescent City '11\|Kanab '12\|Antlers '12\|Estes Park '13\|Antlers '13\|Orofino '14\|The Dalles '17
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11-01-2014, 08:59 PM	#4
Stu Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 29	Yep. __________________ __________________ 2006 Kawasaki Nomad VBA # 02160 VROC # 35175
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11-01-2014, 09:25 PM	#7
Stu Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 29	It has been a couple of months. Clutch fluid is still clear. However, that is something I was going to look at. Maybe try bleeding the clutch lines to see if that helps? __________________ __________________ 2006 Kawasaki Nomad VBA # 02160 VROC # 35175
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11-01-2014, 09:37 PM	#8
Stu Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 29	Scott- I only bled the system, but in so doing I completely replaced the old fluid, it was orange to start with, and clear when I was finished. Ring- that's why ill try tomorrow. At 60k+ miles, it probably does have gunk in it. Love this forum. I'll let you know what i find tomorrow. I'm thankful for having an option other than checking the clutch spring. Especially since that has seemed to work fine so far. __________________ __________________ 2006 Kawasaki Nomad VBA # 02160 VROC # 35175
	0

11-01-2014, 08:52 PM	#2
dgconstable Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: PEI, CANADA Posts: 351	Seafoam in the crankcase? hmmm
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11-01-2014, 10:14 PM	#9
rolfe Advanced Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Lake Travis, Texas Posts: 518	I've backed off of Seafoam, but used to be a big user. Reason being all the ethanol in the gas. I switch between Marvel Mystery Oil and Lucas gas additives. I only put them in the gas. Been using Marvel for about 40 years and the Lucas the last couple years. You being where you are the 20-50 should be good as what I use all the time in Lake Travis,Texas. The Marvel should loosen upper deposits after a while and along with Lucas to keep the rubber inside the engine/carburetor pliable. I never mix them together and usually run a couple tanks of gas without either. Its kind of funky using one or the other. Another note is that I am not that keen on using the Barnett Spring vs. the Mean Streak Spring just my 2 cents.
	0

11-01-2014, 10:30 PM	#10
cactusjack Mega-Contributor Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Where it doesn't snow...ever! Posts: 21,926	I ran 20w50 in my 2007 Nomad during the summers because it gets so hot here. Didn't hurt a thing. I also ran Seafoam through the crankcase for 100 or so miles before an oil change with no ill effect. __________________ Scott "Cactusjack" Hanks VBA #00105 H.O.G. #4250060 2011 H-D Ultra Limited 103ci :: 2011 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited w/Stage 1 :: Rallies: Mesquite '08\|Custer '09\|Cortez '10\|Crescent City '11\|Kanab '12\|Antlers '12\|Estes Park '13\|Antlers '13\|Orofino '14\|The Dalles '17
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11-01-2014, 10:43 PM	#11
PNBR549@Bell Join Date: May 2012 Location: Atlanta Posts: 114	rolfe: What, IYHM, is wrong with the Barnett spring? __________________ Because 2 wheels & a motor are a life long addiction ! 2006 Nomad 1600 2003 Suzuki Volusia 1998 Honda Valkyrie (Sold) 1997 Vulcan 1500 Classic (Sold)
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11-02-2014, 01:01 AM	#15
Silent Sam Sr. Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: On The Shakey Side Posts: 2,501	...As to the problem you posted..I think it must be in need of a clutch fluid system-flush. When my clutch first began slipping at around 45,000 miles (I run oil additives)..I decided to clean up the crankcase, and put in new oil -Shell Rotella T 15-40 with a can of Sea Foam. I ran it for close to 2,000 miles...the clutch was still slipping....So went to the Barnett Clutch Spring (and ..back to my, "friction reducers")...No damage to anything running Sea Foam in the crankcase...and the Barnett Clutch Spring does not slip at all....(Be Advised the Barnett Clutch Spring will require aprox twice the "lever force" to disengage the clutch)
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