50,000 miles

[Flapjack]

I have an 05 Nomad 1600 and I'm m approaching 50k on the clock. I have the manual and see what the maintenance schedule includes at 48k (I think without grabbing it).

What issues (manual doesn't give a timeframe) are common with Nomad's, especially close to the 50k mark? What tips do you have to keep everything running smooth? I've seen clutch springs mentioned. Brakes just got done. Really minor things to this point for me. I got the bike with 32k miles, so not sure about was done prior.

[scooter1600]

Hi
i'm just over 105,000k with no major hassels
2005 1600 nomad
head stem bearings replaced 20,000k ago
Mark

[recumbentbob]

Lube drive shaft splines and lube swing arm bearings.

[gmartin]

Might need to get the retaining ring pliers from Kawasaki to remove the snap ring which holds the sliding couple together, part # 57001-144. I'm sure there are ways around buying this but I went ahead and bit the bullet.
You're going to need something to lift the bike up with also.

[ldhthept]

“Snap ring which holds the sliding couple together.” That’s not much of a clue, might want to be a bit more specific for him.

[gmartin]

Originally Posted by ldhthept

“Snap ring which holds the sliding couple together.” That’s not much of a clue, might want to be a bit more specific for him.

Just wanted to add to what had already been mentioned about the driveshaft splines. Didn't make much sense the way I typed that did it? Sorry, meant to say coupling.
It's one of the four points on the driveline that needs moly grease. Hopefully, the OP will have a service manual nearby when he starts this work.

[VulcanJeff]

He mentioned having the manual.

EDIT: I guess I should add my 2 cents. I just rolled over 50k. I replaced the clutch spring and fiber plates, lubed the driveline splines (and you might as well replace the u-joint while you're in it that deep), lubed the swingarm bearings. The other biggie is the neck bearings which I have yet to do.

[DragonLady58]

Well, since you have 50K on the clock, I'd go thru the whole enchilada....top to bottom....that way, theres no nasty suprises waiting for you when your 500+ miles from home....
Start by a really good wash and wax....that way you can see things that might get covered up my dirt, Like a weeping gasket or seal, a cracked weld, broken bolts etc.
Next, do the small things....repack your steering stem bearings, replace as necessary. Also, change out your fluids, all of them! And Filters!
While your up front meddling with the neck bearings, refill your forks with fresh fluid.....
Start with the cooling system, flush and add coolant, change your clutch fluid, the fluid in your front and rear brakes, rear drive fluid (in your rear end)......and YES while your dealing with that rear swing arm, check your drive shaft bearings, too!

Heres something alot of folks do not check and it needs checking because it has a big effect on your bike going down the road straight.
Make sure your swing arm is tight, no slack or deviation....
This will affect handling, not to mention tire wear also....
When I added my first bearings to the neck of my bike and the swingarm, I added zerk fittings so I could give these a shot of grease every year. They don't need a whole lot, but they gotta have it or they'll wear out prematurely....
All this should be checked every-so-often....
And Yes, look at the rubbers on your motormounts....that big VTwin pulling all those big loads, you can seperate and eat up your rubber mounts very easily....
Last but not least, check all of your safety switches, clutch, side stand, vehicle down, etc.....
These small things are easy to forget about....I generally myself disable such garbage....as I've been riding bikes over 40+ years....
If you haven't learned the basics, you shouldn't be riding a 800lb. bagger to begin with.....
Its sorta like your lawn mower....
Got a safety switch on the seat, on the engagement level, on the clutch and you look at it wrong, it'll stop....
And who the Sam Hell rides their kids on their mowers or dodges kids mowing grass while they're playing in the yards....well....besides the Adams Family....
Thats like folks riding with shorts and flip flops....get your legs, feet burned, don't come cryin' to me cause I'll laugh my ass off at ya....

[gmartin]

Originally Posted by VulcanJeff

He mentioned having the manual.

EDIT: I guess I should add my 2 cents. I just rolled over 50k. I replaced the clutch spring and fiber plates, lubed the driveline splines (and you might as well replace the u-joint while you're in it that deep), lubed the swingarm bearings. The other biggie is the neck bearings which I have yet to do.

I saw he mentioned a manual but the maintenance schedule is in the owners manual and I figured that was what he was talking about.
What did you use to remove the snap ring on the sliding coupling when you lubed your driveshaft? I have a drawer full of Snap-On retaining ring pliers but none that would remove the snap ring on that coupling.

[Flapjack]

Originally Posted by DragonLady58

Well, since you have 50K on the clock, I'd go thru the whole enchilada....top to bottom....that way, theres no nasty suprises waiting for you when your 500+ miles from home....
Start by a really good wash and wax....that way you can see things that might get covered up my dirt, Like a weeping gasket or seal, a cracked weld, broken bolts etc.
Next, do the small things....repack your steering stem bearings, replace as necessary. Also, change out your fluids, all of them! And Filters!
While your up front meddling with the neck bearings, refill your forks with fresh fluid.....
Start with the cooling system, flush and add coolant, change your clutch fluid, the fluid in your front and rear brakes, rear drive fluid (in your rear end)......and YES while your dealing with that rear swing arm, check your drive shaft bearings, too!

Heres something alot of folks do not check and it needs checking because it has a big effect on your bike going down the road straight.
Make sure your swing arm is tight, no slack or deviation....
This will affect handling, not to mention tire wear also....
When I added my first bearings to the neck of my bike and the swingarm, I added zerk fittings so I could give these a shot of grease every year. They don't need a whole lot, but they gotta have it or they'll wear out prematurely....
All this should be checked every-so-often....
And Yes, look at the rubbers on your motormounts....that big VTwin pulling all those big loads, you can seperate and eat up your rubber mounts very easily....
Last but not least, check all of your safety switches, clutch, side stand, vehicle down, etc.....
These small things are easy to forget about....I generally myself disable such garbage....as I've been riding bikes over 40+ years....
If you haven't learned the basics, you shouldn't be riding a 800lb. bagger to begin with.....
Its sorta like your lawn mower....
Got a safety switch on the seat, on the engagement level, on the clutch and you look at it wrong, it'll stop....
And who the Sam Hell rides their kids on their mowers or dodges kids mowing grass while they're playing in the yards....well....besides the Adams Family....
Thats like folks riding with shorts and flip flops....get your legs, feet burned, don't come cryin' to me cause I'll laugh my ass off at ya....

This is almost exactly what I was looking for.

I keep the bike clean after every ride, so first part is done.

I have started doing or have done some of the fluids (coolant, brakes, clutch) in the last 6 months, so should be good there. No leaks or anything.

Bearings and lubes for sure will be on the task list. Zerk fittings, thanks for that reminder.

Any other preventative measures? Seafoam in the oil, already use it in gas tank. Other tricks of the mechanic?

Thank you everyone for the answers. Yes, I have owners and service manual. More or less looking for the secrets not in the manuals.

[recumbentbob]

Don't put seafoam in your oil. If you change oil regularly there is no reason to put seafoam in your oil.

[Flapjack]

Originally Posted by recumbentbob

Don't put seafoam in your oil. If you change oil regularly there is no reason to put seafoam in your oil.

That was just an example cause of the other thread.

[DragonLady58]

Originally Posted by Flapjack

This is almost exactly what I was looking for.

I keep the bike clean after every ride, so first part is done.

I have started doing or have done some of the fluids (coolant, brakes, clutch) in the last 6 months, so should be good there. No leaks or anything.

Bearings and lubes for sure will be on the task list. Zerk fittings, thanks for that reminder.

Any other preventative measures? Seafoam in the oil, already use it in gas tank. Other tricks of the mechanic?

Thank you everyone for the answers. Yes, I have owners and service manual. More or less looking for the secrets not in the manuals.

OK....I'd use some Lucas oil stabilizer, prevents dry startups....since sometimes these bikes will sit months at a time between rides. Starting up will cause dry startup wear on your main and rod bearings....if you don't use a good oil with alot of film strength like a Diesel type oil OR a oil conditioner that will prevent dry startups. Lucas oil stabilizer is great, after I do a oil change (3qts of oil and 1qt of lucas oil stabalizer).
When I need to add a little, I just add a touch of stabilizer.
About every 4 months, I'll run a small bottle of 2 cycle oil thru my fuel tank, and every 6 months, I run a bottle of seafoam thru my tank....
The fuel these days is just so damn dry with the alky in the mix along with all that accumulated water (rusts all metal things)....Oh, and if the crap seperates....that acidic mess will really screw things up....

When on the road traveling, I keep a bottle of seafoam and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol in my saddlebags....

[Flapjack]

Originally Posted by DragonLady58

OK....I'd use some Lucas oil stabilizer, prevents dry startups....since sometimes these bikes will sit months at a time between rides. Starting up will cause dry startup wear on your main and rod bearings....if you don't use a good oil with alot of film strength like a Diesel type oil OR a oil conditioner that will prevent dry startups. Lucas oil stabilizer is great, after I do a oil change (3qts of oil and 1qt of lucas oil stabalizer).
When I need to add a little, I just add a touch of stabilizer.

Being the longest the bike goes without starting and riding is about 2 days. Is the stabilizer necessary?
3 qt of oil and 1 qt of stabilizer? Isnt the overall capacity 3.1 qt?

Originally Posted by DragonLady58

About every 4 months, I'll run a small bottle of 2 cycle oil thru my fuel tank, and every 6 months, I run a bottle of seafoam thru my tank...

Mixed with gas I presume? I normally do an oz of seafoam per gallon of gas every couple thousand miles.

Originally Posted by DragonLady58

The fuel these days is just so damn dry with the alky in the mix along with all that accumulated water (rusts all metal things)....Oh, and if the crap seperates....that acidic mess will really screw things up....

When on the road traveling, I keep a bottle of seafoam and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol in my saddlebags....

What is the isopropyl alcohol for?

[DragonLady58]

Bike will hold 3.7 qts. I put the 3 in, then open a qt. Of the stabilizer, fill to line....I run one of the bigger oil filters so I can add close to a qt.
The 2 cycle oil, I just pour into the fuel tank for pump lubrication, upper cylinder lubrication....
Isopropyl alcohol I pour into the tank when the water content of the crappy ethanol fuel is too high....l pour it into the tank to burn that crappy fuel.
Essentially, that is what 'heat' is (fuel system treatment)....