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Old 04-07-2010, 10:23 PM   #16
hammer   hammer is offline
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Wiring Question

I meant CactusJack and absolutely no disrespect to you Mitch because it could apply for similar reasons. I don't know if I am digging myself in deeper or not????
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:11 AM   #17
Cajunrider   Cajunrider is offline
 
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Wiring Question

No offense taken Hammer. I was just funnin with ya anyway. ;)
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:19 AM   #18
ffron69   ffron69 is offline
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Wiring Question

Thanks
 
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:25 AM   #19
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Wiring Question

OK, I tapped into the blue/yellow wire in the headlight bucket to activate the lights when the headlight comes on after the bike is started and it's working fine so far. I have a relay and a 10 amp fuse between the battery connection and the lights. Maybe I'm missing something but if I'm understanding correctly, there is a way to have the lights come on without tapping into the light bucket. If there is I still don't know how to do it.

I used the Pilot Pre-Wired Harness Kit w/Micro Switch for 12 Volt Auxiliary Lamps part number PL-HARN3. This is the same one recommended on Gadget's Fix-it Page. There is a red power line from the on/off switch, should I connect that somewhere other than the blue/yellow wire in the headlight bucket? I know this issue has been beaten to death, I just want to do it right. I see the importance of not having all your front lights on the same power source, I just don't know where else I should have connected it to.
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:41 PM   #20
Lumberjack   Lumberjack is offline
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There is one major flaw with the diagram - the switch is inline with the lights and is taking the entire load. You want to put the switch on 86 and control the relay, not the lights - the relay will control the lights. Just wire it light a horn.



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Last edited by Lumberjack; 05-06-2016 at 11:47 PM.
 
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Old 05-07-2016, 09:50 AM   #21
Tearitupfixitrepeat   Tearitupfixitrepeat is offline
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This what I do. Blue/Yellow is the headlight on. The acc wire is the headlight bucket on a 1600. I drew in more ground wires than may be necessary because my bar was powdercoated and the chassis ground was a given and the light up toggle needs a separate ground.

It's fused, comes on the with the headlight(not during starting), turns off with the key, and turns off with the switch if you choose.

 
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Old 10-02-2019, 03:59 PM   #22
virtualgeorge   virtualgeorge is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cactusjack View Post
Give me a few minutes and I'll have a diagram for you.


Would you still happen to have that diagram image?
 
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Old 10-02-2019, 06:42 PM   #23
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WTF

Quote:
Originally Posted by virtualgeorge View Post
Would you still happen to have that diagram image?
CJ is right, you don't wanna be caught out somewhere, lights go out, either due to a blown fuse, switch or wiring problem.
Alot of folks will wire up just as the dia. a couple of posts back, picking up a access. wire under the tank to power the relay. The tripwire would be hooked to your high beams, or your lowbeams, whichever floats your boat.
I have a secondary switch, coming off the accessory under the tank too (fused), (always on, batt. power), also hooked into the relay trigger wire. That way, if you need light in a emergency, as long as your battery is hot, you got lights....
You can use it when your bike is off or in a emergency. My driving lights are Cree LEDs, draw all of 22 watts, light the road up like its daylight....
The current draw is so low, almost don't need a relay, but the wiring on these bikes, its best not to stress them at all.
I have 2, 6 fuse covered blocks, one under my left hand side cover to power my BadBoy Air Horn, My rear Air Ride Suspension, my LED Chassis lighting.
Theres one in my fairing that powers my driving lights, my 40 ampx2 mp3 player dock, my temp/oil press/volts gauges, and onboard map lights/usb/cigarette lighter.....plus my radar detector/TPMS/onboard camera/recorder system.....
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