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04-07-2010, 10:23 PM | #16 |
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Wiring Question
I meant CactusJack and absolutely no disrespect to you Mitch because it could apply for similar reasons. I don't know if I am digging myself in deeper or not????
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Hammer aka CrocHammer KawaNow#00988, VROC#26389, VR#2202 Abbotsford, BC, Canada 2006 Black Nomad Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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04-08-2010, 12:11 AM | #17 |
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: (SE Louisiana)
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Wiring Question
No offense taken Hammer. I was just funnin with ya anyway. ;)
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2016 Electra Glide Ultra Limited CVO Palladium Silver / Phantom Blue 110 cu in SE 2012 Electra Glide Ultra Limited (Traded 6/22/16) Tequila Sunrise / HD Orange Vance & Hines true dual headers Rinehart 4" slip ons Screamin Eagle Super Tuner Screamin Eagle Stage 1 intake Dyno tuned H.O.G.# 4514015 2007 Nomad 1600 (Traded 6/23/12) VBA #482 |
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04-08-2010, 05:19 AM | #18 |
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Location: Pittsburgh PA
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Wiring Question
Thanks
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04-08-2010, 05:25 AM | #19 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portsmouth, VA
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Wiring Question
OK, I tapped into the blue/yellow wire in the headlight bucket to activate the lights when the headlight comes on after the bike is started and it's working fine so far. I have a relay and a 10 amp fuse between the battery connection and the lights. Maybe I'm missing something but if I'm understanding correctly, there is a way to have the lights come on without tapping into the light bucket. If there is I still don't know how to do it.
I used the Pilot Pre-Wired Harness Kit w/Micro Switch for 12 Volt Auxiliary Lamps part number PL-HARN3. This is the same one recommended on Gadget's Fix-it Page. There is a red power line from the on/off switch, should I connect that somewhere other than the blue/yellow wire in the headlight bucket? I know this issue has been beaten to death, I just want to do it right. I see the importance of not having all your front lights on the same power source, I just don't know where else I should have connected it to. |
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05-06-2016, 11:41 PM | #20 |
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There is one major flaw with the diagram - the switch is inline with the lights and is taking the entire load. You want to put the switch on 86 and control the relay, not the lights - the relay will control the lights. Just wire it light a horn.
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Last edited by Lumberjack; 05-06-2016 at 11:47 PM.
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05-07-2016, 09:50 AM | #21 |
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This what I do. Blue/Yellow is the headlight on. The acc wire is the headlight bucket on a 1600. I drew in more ground wires than may be necessary because my bar was powdercoated and the chassis ground was a given and the light up toggle needs a separate ground.
It's fused, comes on the with the headlight(not during starting), turns off with the key, and turns off with the switch if you choose. |
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10-02-2019, 03:59 PM | #22 |
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10-02-2019, 06:42 PM | #23 |
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CJ is right, you don't wanna be caught out somewhere, lights go out, either due to a blown fuse, switch or wiring problem.
Alot of folks will wire up just as the dia. a couple of posts back, picking up a access. wire under the tank to power the relay. The tripwire would be hooked to your high beams, or your lowbeams, whichever floats your boat. I have a secondary switch, coming off the accessory under the tank too (fused), (always on, batt. power), also hooked into the relay trigger wire. That way, if you need light in a emergency, as long as your battery is hot, you got lights.... You can use it when your bike is off or in a emergency. My driving lights are Cree LEDs, draw all of 22 watts, light the road up like its daylight.... The current draw is so low, almost don't need a relay, but the wiring on these bikes, its best not to stress them at all. I have 2, 6 fuse covered blocks, one under my left hand side cover to power my BadBoy Air Horn, My rear Air Ride Suspension, my LED Chassis lighting. Theres one in my fairing that powers my driving lights, my 40 ampx2 mp3 player dock, my temp/oil press/volts gauges, and onboard map lights/usb/cigarette lighter.....plus my radar detector/TPMS/onboard camera/recorder system.....
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