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06-07-2017, 10:33 PM | #17 |
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Personally with 18k miles I wouldn't touch it just because you have put parts into your old motor. If it means that much to you just put it in the corner if you ever need them.
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06-08-2017, 04:47 AM | #18 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Psychiatric Ward FL
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There are three bearings in the bevel gear area, one on the gear, one in the cover, and one in the case.
Not to mention the different combination of shims. Which did you have changed, and are you sure the person doing it got the shims back in the correct places? The labor to pull the parts will likely be more than the cost of the parts. If you end up putting the bevel gear cover from the carb engine on the FI engine, it doesn't have the extra hole for the speedo sensor, I would definitely be interested in the cover from the FI engine.
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06-08-2017, 07:06 AM | #19 |
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Location: chandler okla
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Mas if the decal whine persist after He does the engine swap will it be the rear diff like on cars/trucks off throttle on throttle whine ?
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06-08-2017, 07:42 AM | #20 | |
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Location: Psychiatric Ward FL
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Quote:
It would be really difficult to misdiagnose the final drive whine, which is extremely rare and completely different sounding, as the front bevel gear. I would bet that one of the other of the three bearings was bad, or the shims got mixed up and something is misaligned. It's also a possibility that the oil line is plugged and the bearing isn't getting enough oil. I'm curious as to what the idle was set at before the first noise started. I have a theory that some Kaw owners set the idle down to mimic the HD sound. This WILL cause the engine to run with less than optimal oil pressure while idling. The oil line that bathes the front bevel gear bearing, the one that always goes bad, is at the end of the line, literally and yes the pun was intended. So I believe that some of these bearings are being starved for oil while idling and being damaged. And as we all know, once it's damaged it doesn't get any better. Even the HDs are supposed to idle faster than that 'classic HD sound'. That's why so many need top ends around 30-40 thousand miles.
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06-08-2017, 07:46 AM | #21 | |
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Quote:
Sorry, but someone has to be an asshole now and then. And I'm good at it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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06-08-2017, 10:20 PM | #22 |
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MAS IS DA MAN! Give him case of cigars! The big vulcans have oil lines the squirt oil on all the important bearings in the lower crankcase including that final drive....but if your idling below 750 or 850 rpm, that jet of oil coming from those lines doesn't have the pressure to make it thru those spinning bearings....
Yes, while sitting still, its getting a nice little bath, but, it needs a steady stream going down the road. While you do the HD imatation at a low idle, you aren't pumping near enough oil.... Thats why these bikes can run 150,000 usually before rebuilds. Idle that bitsh up until you have a slight vib., she'll still sound like a HD....but live alot longer. That 800 rpm vib. is the key....idle any lower, your doing more harm than good.... On my bike, when my idle starts to hunt, thats a sign that my throttle body needs cleaning....then she regains her idle. I have a lope till about 850 to 950 rpms caused by my nonstock cams I run....mine doesn't smooth until 1000 or 1050....
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
Last edited by DragonLady58; 06-08-2017 at 10:26 PM.
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06-19-2017, 11:48 AM | #23 | |
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Quote:
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06-19-2017, 12:18 PM | #24 |
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There is plenty of meat there to drill the holes and tap them! Call MAS, he will talk you thru the procedure....no, you don't have to disassemble anything, just cover and tap off thing good before hand.
Take your time and don't rush....
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! |
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06-19-2017, 01:44 PM | #25 |
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Location: Psychiatric Ward FL
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His mistake is that his guy is doing it backwards.
Bolt up to the top holes and there will be plenty to drill and tap at the bottom. It's not as easy to get to, but that's why he's the wrench and not the customer. He probably doesn't have a right angle drill, and doesn't want to get one.
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07-12-2017, 07:29 PM | #26 |
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Engine Swap
Thank you for all for your help. The 2000 fuel injected motor (now carbureted) is in my 1999 bike. The bike is running well. Couple things I need to point out for anyone attempting to do this. First off the bottom bolts need to be mounted first and then the top bolts need to be drilled and tapped. There is no room for error here. There is not much metal to work with either here. You cannot mount this intake by mounting the top bolts as it just will not physically fit. You will also have to elongate the intake mounting bolt holes for this to fit. You'll need to create a gasket for this mounting also. Yamabond works well. Costs;
New motor 18,000 miles on it $650 Shipping $100 Mechanic install including oil, coolant, gaskets, etc $425 Total $1275 3 weeks out of service
Last edited by Tadyccs; 07-12-2017 at 07:38 PM.
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09-26-2017, 02:35 AM | #27 |
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Top or bottom holes first.There are 2 different opinions here,which one is right.Something so important needs to be clarified,as it could render the engine useless if its done wrong.
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09-26-2017, 11:10 AM | #28 |
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Good catch. I had to rub my eyes and read both posts again to be certain that they DO NOT agree. One of them is not right. I won't, personally, ever have to do this swap but the incorrect post needs to go away or be corrected to save someone a heart ache down the road. I suspect the guy who had to hire the work done is incorrect on the bolt holes and drilling just as his math on total costs is wrong also.
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09-26-2017, 11:25 PM | #29 | |
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Quote:
Even if I did have to Lay Healing Hands on Mas' Meanie after some particulary fierce rain
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09-27-2017, 11:34 AM | #30 |
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Agreed. But as in this case where the OP joined the forum to get "an answer" (joined May 2017, asked question May 2017. Total 7 posts and gone.) and doesn't know anyone or their background or experience the next guy could find one of the two answers and drill incorrectly following the wrong information and be screwed big time.
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Don H Kansas City, MO area |
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