Tech questions on cooling system - 2010 Voyager

[Calflan]

Yestreday took a ride in high temp weather and the temp gauge climbed to red border, not in red, but right to lower level line.

Outside temperature here in Arizona was 101 - 102 degrees elevation approx. 2500 ft. humidty 3%. Rode up a mountain, to 9500 ft., 88 degrees, low humidity. En route, temp climbed to low red, I stopped for about 10 mins and it cooled down pretty quick with fan running. On restart, approx. 5 mins later, it climbed back up again. My wife and I on the bike, approx. 400 lbs. up hill. At the top, with lower ambient temps, the gauge dropped back down to 3/4 and rode there for the remainder of the uphill ride. On the ride down, it never climbed that high again, remained 3/4 to 3/4 + at times. Never experienced a running issue, bike ran fine without issue, but really unnerving to have the gauge ride so high.

What I have done (all prior to this ride):
1 - Several weeks, ago, converted to Mobil 1 20W-50 Synthetic oil
2 - Flushed coolant system and filled with 100% Engine Ice about 2 weeks ago. No water coolant mix, but as I understand that's fine with Engine Ice.
3 - Wrapped pipes about a week ago
4 - For summer weather, removed the forward leg fairings attached to the engine guard bars, to provide full airflow to engine (the area the louver that can be opened and closed provides, in my opinion, is too little in higher temps running) mainly for rider comfort.

Questions:
1 - What is the value on each increment on the temp gauge for the 6 marks on the gauge ? Thermostat kicks in at 180 I believe, so I would expect to see gauge climb to that point and then slow for climbing any higher.
2 - How irregular is it to see temp climb this high ?
3 - What is normal running temp (gauge indication) ? I would expect, as any other vehicle I own, it'd run mid gauge most of the time. If what I'm seeing is normal, why would Kawasaki install a gauge with such low level calibration to run so high.
4 - What more can be done to drop running temp ? Commander module ? Open air intake ?
5 - I bought the bike with approx. 6000 miles on it from an owner in Denver (high altitude) and rode home to Tucson. Is there an adjustment on the ECM for fiuel / air ratio that'd be set by Kawasaki for high altitude regions ? A bike sold new in Denver might require a different air / fuel ratio setting as opposed to one closer to sea level. Do I need have this adjusted to compensate ?

Running temp is quite irritating for this top of the line bike from Kawasaki. I had a 1600 Vulcan Classic prior and no temp gauge, but that engine was completely water cooled, not just the heads.

Thanks for any help / heads up !

[smokey]

There are a few post on this subject, I put the KAMS kit in mine and noticed a big difference, you may want to try that, you can do the install yourself in about 4 hours. Engine ICE coolant may help as it is supposed to more efficient. The gauge on mine runs about the 3/4 mark on days like we are having now, 40C with the humidity.

[RACNRAY]

Sounds like you have done some of the stuff these Vulcans need to have done.
If you would like call my shop, I have some questions and I can talk MUCH faster than I can type. Or pm me your number and best time to call and I'll call you.
I want to help get this solved any way I can.

RACNRAY
954-455-9665 9-6:30 FLORIDA TIME

[Calflan]

Thanks for replies, PM sent RACNRAY.
In regard to KAMS kit, I thought this was mainly for rider comfort, not so much engine temp control.

[ponch]

Two points about high altitude. One, water boils at a lower temperature as altitude increases and because the air is thinner, it doesn't cool as well. Going up hill is still work, so, the temp may go up with going uphill and increasing altitude. I experienced this driving in the alps. It's normal to an extent. I think the difference in boiling point is 2˚F for every 1000'. At 9500', the air is going to be quite a bit thinner too. In your case around 20%.

[smokey]

Originally Posted by Calflan

Thanks for replies, PM sent RACNRAY.
In regard to KAMS kit, I thought this was mainly for rider comfort, not so much engine temp control.

I found it doesn't control the engine temp, just makes getting air onto the cylinders more efficient and of course getting rid of it from the main culprit, the rear exhaust pipe, a heck of a lot more efficient.

[gv550]

The fairing lowers help direct airflow through the radiator, removing the lowers causes the engine temperature and coolant temperature to rise.
The 1700 has liquid cooling to the top 1 inch of the cylinders, as well as the heads.
All 1700s have an idiot light that comes on if the engine is overheating, only the Voyager and Vaquero have a temp gauge as well. Classics and Nomads operate at the same temperatures yet nobody complains....... because there is no gauge to look at! Try to ignore the gauge, the idiot light should be your only concern.

[Calflan]

While I can see the fairings increasing some airflow into the radiator (the 'bubble' effect of the fairings mounted next to the radiator would tend to force airflow inward toward the radiator), these engines are water cooled on the head only and the cylinder air cooled. I rode a week ago and could not belive, when I put my hand down where my legs are behind the fairing, how little airflwo there is behind the fairing, so I have to think the cooling airflow past the cylinders is weak with the fairing installed at high ambient temps. The bikes are designed with teh fairings on them, but there should be sufficient airflow into the radiator without the fairing, to allow for radiator flow and cylinder fin cool airflow. Thoughts on this ??

[Calflan]

Ray, thanks again for the ideas, will absolutely try each one and see how each affects the running temps. In brief, ideas that can help my situation (and hopefully anyone else experiencing similar concerns):

1 - remove the baffles form the tail pipes - decrease restriction in flow for exhaust will allow better engine effiicency and less back pressure, allowing cooler running temps
2 - If not an open air inake, switch to a K&N less restrictive air filter. The less restriction also allows better efficiency for running temps
3 - I changed the coolant a few weeks ago and have not gone back in and checked coolant level of the system, just the overflow bottle. The bottle is good, but there can be trapped air in the radiator that either takes an exceptional amount of time or simply does not get out of the system without pulling the cap ad topping off the system.
4 - Power Commander V with timing adjust as well. As discussed, Kawasaki had to meet EPA emission standards, while also trying to get the engine to run the best it can with those restrictions. As a result, there is a strong possibility that the mixture is set lean to meet these standards and can make the engine run less than peak performance, while also increasing running temps. The Power Commnader maps (even for stock systems) adjusts to meet perfomance in lieu of the restrictive - or as restrictive - emission standards the manufacturer must meet to deliver these bikes.
5 - Although I have Mobil 1 installed, will look at trying Amsoil on next change. Lots of rifders using Amsoil synthetic instead of Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is good, Amsoil better for a few reasons; quieter, smoother, cooler. BUT, both are better than non synthetic oils.

[gv550]

Originally Posted by Calflan

While I can see the fairings increasing some airflow into the radiator (the 'bubble' effect of the fairings mounted next to the radiator would tend to force airflow inward toward the radiator), these engines are water cooled on the head only and the cylinder air cooled. I rode a week ago and could not belive, when I put my hand down where my legs are behind the fairing, how little airflwo there is behind the fairing, so I have to think the cooling airflow past the cylinders is weak with the fairing installed at high ambient temps. The bikes are designed with teh fairings on them, but there should be sufficient airflow into the radiator without the fairing, to allow for radiator flow and cylinder fin cool airflow. Thoughts on this ??

I know Kawasaki literature says the 1700s have liquid cooled heads and air cooled cylinders, but I've had my engine apart and there definitely is a water jacket around both cylinders.
I have a pair of Vaquero engine guards so I can quickly unbolt the Voyager guards with lowers and swap them for guards only just to get more airflow to my legs on hot days and even though it feels cooler on my legs, the engine temp is actually higher.
All that said...... so long as the Temp light is not on, the bike is running just as Kawasaki designed it. Ignore the temp gauge, I really wish they had put a voltmeter there instead, much more useful.