PAC SWI-CP5 unit and handlebar controls with aftermarket stereo

[Lumberjack]

Updated 2018, 04, 22
Please don’t PM me. Post questions/answers in the thread so others can learn and not reinvent the wheel.
Please don’t PM me. Post questions/answers in the thread so others can learn and not reinvent the wheel.


I have researched and thought I would inform everyone that you can install an aftermarket deck and still maintain your handlebar controls with the aftermarket unit using a steering wheel control interface from PAC (Pacific Accessory Corporation).

Please don’t PM me. Post questions/answers in the thread so others can learn and not reinvent the wheel.

I installed a Sony deck. You will have to make a custom faceplate and I had one fabricated at a shop that deals with acrylic. Remove the OEM deck and then remove the front faceplate and bring into shop with the DIN cage from aftermarket deck. I gave them the two pieces as a template to make my faceplate. I used some silicone on the backside to hold it in place. I did not use the rubber seal and IMO would give the shop with front plate (not the entire deck) with the rubber still on for their template. I used a piece of bicycle inner tube around the aftermarket deck to take up the gap as you cannot use the DIN mounting cage with the new install. Perhaps asking the shop to cut the inside dimension of the cage would be better?

I like this deck as is has two USB inputs one on the front of the deck which I never use and one on a long cable on the back which I run into the left map pocket where the iPOD adapter use to go. I ran 8 gauge wire to a marine fuse block http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syste...ct_top?ie=UTF8 mounted to the inside of the fairing and can access it by removing the 3 screws on the map pocket for easy access.



There is two units to choose from:

PAC SWI-RC https://pac-audio.com/catalog/radio-...-CP5&results=2

• I initially found this one but did not install it and someone I know did with success. I found a fully programmable unit and chose to go that route and after two units failing I have come to conclusion it is a poor design not good for motorcycle use. It is not as weather tight as SWI-RC too.
• the resistors come with the kit. Note the resistor values don't really matter and they just need to be different. I did note that the 560 ohm and one other was common used on both units but I successfully used my own resistors (and values) on wires.
• Wiring diagram below and here full size http://i.imgur.com/6VPkaPw.jpg
• the vehicle version number to program the pac unit is 3. Remember to program the unit with vehicle # before you try to program the buttons. Make sure power to unit is switched too.
• There is a MUCH easier install than the CP5 and quite simple compared.
• We have used the CB switch as an additional radio button(s) so you have a total of 9 presses (from the 3 buttons) for your aftermarket deck you are using. You can program the buttons to whatever is available for your deck (see their programming guide)
• For some reason I was having problems with volume up and it would usually go volume down instead (on both units). I tried reprogramming several times and finally gave up and used the middle button instead and all works fine now. You can program any button for whatever you like and don't have to use what is labeled. The two other buttons (track and preset) are usually redundant on most source selections anyhow. Also, the CB button is more awkward to get at than the other two.
• I velcro'd the unit to the inside fairing where I can access from map pocket. I suggest you have easy access as you have to pull the lower fairing off to get the main fairing off.

SWI-CP5 (Don't use)
https://pac-audio.com/catalog/radio-...-CP5&results=2

• Don't use, I have gone through 2 units now and they have both died on me evemtually. They are 2x the price. 2x the size, and much harder to install.
  
• This one is programmable but you will not get more button presses than the manufacturer specific deck allows. You merely get to choose which button does it (long or short button press). I have a Sony deck and it allows for a total of 11 functions. Other manufacturers vary and check manual.
• I am not particularly fond of the long press for some buttons as holding the volume button confuses the unit thinking it is long press and if you have it programmed will choose that. You have to incrementally increase the volume so it does get confused with a long press or not program the long press on that button I suppose. I have reconfigured the unit and not using the long press feature and volume button can be held up or down now - I do not recommend programming this feature. I did not program the phone into the switch either and kept it simple
• I velcro'd the remote onto top of the left reservoir and have ability to change programmed stations on my XM radio or FM radio now.
• The resistor values do not need to be specific as per the diagram (only different) so the PAC unit knows which button it is coming from after programming. I did use two specific values as per tech supports instructions as they seemed specific. I bought a package of resistors on Ebay for like $3.00.
• The programming is simple. You program each possible function and button in the order from the manual. Make sure not to have the 3.5mm jack installed in the deck or things get sketchy. Also make sure the connector harness for the PAC unit is firmly connected as it can seem like it is but not and some of your button presses will not work – trust me on this check the harness connector.

Note: I had to replace the PAC unit as all of a sudden it wasn't working. I pulled fairing apart and the unit would power up (light would turn green) and then go out again. Turns out the unit was bad (not the wiring) and new unit worked fine once plugged in and programmed. I am a bit concerned about riding in rain and the weatherproof of the unit and plan on covering or duct taping unit to protect from elements.

Here is the install instructions for this unit from my correspondence with PAC:

I’m going to go over this using the CP5. First off I will let you know that you have to manually program the CP5 because this vehicle information is not something that already exists in the steering wheel interface(SWI). I will start by saying that at any point in time DO NOT connect the CP5 to a computer or a phone. There is no need to do this because we will manually program it.

Start by setting the first 8 dip switches in the off position. All up.
The next set of 4 dip switches should be set to Sony by having 1,2 and 3 to the off position(up) and the 4th switch to the on position(down). This leaves the unit knowing it will learn the controls manually and work or communicate with a Sony radio.

Now the install…The 3 main power/ground wires are the Black, Red and yellow. Those will connect to the vehicle at the same location as your radio and the colors will match what is at the radio. That covers that.

Now the control wires. I will give you the colors based on the schematics you provided.

BR/Y on bike to solid white on CP5
BR/BL on bike to white/red on CP5
BR/G on bike to white/Black on CP5
LG/R on bike goes to a ground directly
LG on bike goes to a 150ohm resistor and other end of resistor to ground
LG/BK on bike goes to 560ohm resistor and the other end of the resistor to ground

The resistors don’t need to be those specific values…they just need to be different enough for the SWI to distinguish between the buttons.
By doing this install, you will be able to program all 9 buttons for whatever features you desire. With a total of 9 options, I doubt you will be needing a long press feature.

At this point go ahead and manually program the controls using the Sony listing following the instructions.

http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_012014.pdf

Here is the possible programming for a Sony deck and what I programmed (or skipped). I do not reccomend using the long press or you will not be able to volume up (or down) holding the switch as unit thinks you are doing a long press and will have to push volume one increment per time to increase or decrease.
Vol+ programmed as short press volume button
Vol- programmed as short press volume button
Mute/ATT programmed as push volume button
Preset+ skipped
Preset- skipped
Source programmed as push track button
Track+ programmed as short press track button
Track- programmed as short press track button
Band skipped
Reject call/Source (BT equipped radios only) skipped
Answer/End call skipped

Once you have finished programming, connect the CP5 to the Sony radio and your handlebar controls will operate the Sony deck.

[JD Hog]

WOW!

It's guys like Lumberjack that make this forum so great. Thanks for taking the time to do this.

[smokier]

Awesome write LJ
Thank you!

[OhioVoyager]

Nice write-up!! The deck upgrade will be gaining popularity now that we can keep our handelbar controls!! I will be the first to suggest this be placed in the Tech Folder!

I also make an adapter faceplate to mount the aftermarket single-DIN head unit! It utilizes the factory rubber gasket, holds itself in place and has the option to drill through to mount a USB port. That USB port could be a powered-USB or a USB input for the stereo. If you need both, you can drill out both sides next to the stereo!!

[Lumberjack]

I didn't mount the additional USB port in the faceplate and ran it into the left map pocket and just leave a stick plugged in all the time.

Randy, I noticed the top clamp to your phat risers and it doesn't look anything like mine. Tell me about it. I also want to mention that mine comes within about 1 mm of hitting my inside fairing at full lock but doesn't like yours.

Originally Posted by OhioVoyager

Nice write-up!! The deck upgrade will be gaining popularity now that we can keep our handelbar controls!! I will be the first to suggest this be placed in the Tech Folder!

I also make an adapter faceplate to mount the aftermarket single-DIN head unit! It utilizes the factory rubber gasket, holds itself in place and has the option to drill through to mount a USB port. That USB port could be a powered-USB or a USB input for the stereo. If you need both, you can drill out both sides next to the stereo!!

[OhioVoyager]

Mine are scootworks. I am working on a solution to help with the interference but that will wait until winter at this point.

The top clamp is not stock as you suspected. I designed this one and it is cnc'd. I wanted it to hold that RAM mount, lol!

Originally Posted by Lumberjack

I didn't mount the additional USB port in the faceplate and ran it into the left map pocket and just leave a stick plugged in all the time.

Randy, I noticed the top clamp to your phat risers and it doesn't look anything like mine. Tell me about it. I also want to mention that mine comes within about 1 mm of hitting my inside fairing at full lock but doesn't like yours.

[Lumberjack]

But your can with RAM already. You can only put one with what you have it looks but I have two balls in my risers and replaced the two bolts in the risers. I have two GPS in the middle of the bars.

https://www.amazon.ca/Ram-Mount-Moto.../dp/B005J43I56

Originally Posted by OhioVoyager

Mine are scootworks. I am working on a solution to help with the interference but that will wait until winter at this point.

The top clamp is not stock as you suspected. I designed this one and it is cnc'd. I wanted it to hold that RAM mount, lol!

[OhioVoyager]

Yes there were several options to mount a RAM ball but as you know - I kinda like doing my own thing, lol!!

I designed a clamp similar to this to modify my sons LT80 to use a steering stem from an LT160 and liked how it looked so I based this loosely on that design. I made it fit the size/profile of the Scootworks risers. I only needed one RAM mount - who needs TWO GPS's??? You must REALLY hate asking for directions, hahahaha!!!

BTW, you could power both of those GPS's with a USB ports that can be mounted inside my faceplate adapter!!

Originally Posted by Lumberjack

But your can with RAM already. You can only put one with what you have it looks but I have two balls in my risers and replaced the two bolts in the risers. I have two GPS in the middle of the bars.

https://www.amazon.ca/Ram-Mount-Moto.../dp/B005J43I56

[OhioVoyager]

Here are some pics of the adapter faceplate.



This is shown with the USB port installed. I have a pocket on the backside that can be drilled out to install this!

[colt]

Originally Posted by OhioVoyager

Nice write-up!! The deck upgrade will be gaining popularity now that we can keep our handelbar controls!! I will be the first to suggest this be placed in the Tech Folder!

I also make an adapter faceplate to mount the aftermarket single-DIN head unit! It utilizes the factory rubber gasket, holds itself in place and has the option to drill through to mount a USB port. That USB port could be a powered-USB or a USB input for the stereo. If you need both, you can drill out both sides next to the stereo!!

PM sent on the adapter.

[colt]

Nice post Lumberjack. I just ordered OhioVoyager's faceplate and a fuse block. I got the FZ-1 from fuzeblocks.com because I have had good luck with it in the past. I am now looking at what head unit to purchase. I can't tell which one you have from the pictures. Please let me know.

[Lumberjack]

I will NEVER tell...
Sony Model # MEX-M70BT

• Get one with a rear USB cable input as others have had problems with long USB sticks hitting the bars. I have a cable in the left map pocket.
• Look for highest line level voltage you can find (5V is good) for running an external amp
• High and low pass filters in the deck is nice
• EQ is nice
• This does all the extras such as XM, Pandora etc... XM is important to me as I cross the border often and don't have data.
• I got this refurb for $80 I think
• volume knob is better than button to adjust quickly

don't forget to get an antenna extension for radio (I never use it)

Originally Posted by colt

Nice post Lumberjack. I just ordered OhioVoyager's faceplate and a fuse block. I got the FZ-1 from fuzeblocks.com because I have had good luck with it in the past. I am now looking at what head unit to purchase. I can't tell which one you have from the pictures. Please let me know.

[colt]

Originally Posted by Lumberjack

I'll buy now only if you throw in a Shamwow.

I permanently run USB extension cables up my bars and use adjustable cables to complete the last couple of inches to each device. This is all connected to a power supply box in the inner fairing and is much better for me than any connections you could make in or on the dash IMO.

I have two different GPS and the older Garmin with TFT screen shows the roads thicker. I learnt this comes in handy running Blue Ridge and the Tail as I could see the turns in the road better (and by adjusting the zoom). The second I can get an idea of where I am within a large area. I have run both Garmins using the same settings and funny how they can tell me to take a different route. It comes in handy having two and I like my gadgets.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Lumberjack

I will NEVER tell...
Sony Model # MEX-M70BT

• Get one with a rear USB cable input as others have had problems with long USB sticks hitting the bars. I have a cable in the left map pocket.
• Look for highest line level voltage you can find (5V is good) for running an external amp
• High and low pass filters in the deck is nice
• EQ is nice
• This does all the extras such as XM, Pandora etc... XM is important to me as I cross the border often and don't have data.
• I got this refurb for $80 I think
• volume knob is better than button to adjust quickly

don't forget to get an antenna extension for radio (I never use it)

[colt]

Hey lumberjack, why do you say to get an antenna extension for the antenna?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[Lumberjack]

Cause it isn't long enough - the story of my life...

Originally Posted by colt

Hey lumberjack, why do you say to get an antenna extension for the antenna?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk