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06-10-2015, 06:05 PM | #1 |
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Location: ontario, canada
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Help w/ bleeding 'Vaq. ABS brakes'
I've read most posts in the forum on bleeding 'brakes' and the clutch, watched a few u tube videos, (seemed pretty straight forward), went an got a mighty vac and some dot 4 and was going to do it tomorrow (its a 2013), then decided to double check to be sure to see if I could find a video for bleeding an 'ABS system'. I did find one but it was all maybe this maybe that maybe with ABS and linked brakes it will maybe need to be done with some type of specialised equipment only at the dealers . Has anyone replaced their fluid in their ABS system and was anything special required? Thx.
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06-10-2015, 06:41 PM | #2 |
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Should be no different than any other braking system. I have done ABS cars many times. Should be no different on the Vaq.
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06-10-2015, 07:48 PM | #3 |
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the solenoid valve for abs doesn't open unless the bike is moving so I'm kinda on the fence too. but logically speaking if you bleed both side of the valve you shouldn't be an air bubble there, when you start to use the breaking system again right?
or is it more to it! SKULLSHAKER |
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06-10-2015, 07:50 PM | #4 |
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maybe Ray will chime in but I think he is the one said its no problem.
bleed as normal ( correct me if I'm wrong Ray ) SKULLSHAKER |
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06-10-2015, 08:43 PM | #5 |
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This won't help but you need a service manual
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06-11-2015, 09:02 AM | #6 |
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I'm glad someone brought this topic up, as I have a 2014 Vaquero with ABS, and have been wanting to know...
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06-11-2015, 10:12 AM | #7 |
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No special procedure or equipment required to bleed a VN1700 with ABS, put clean fluid in the reservoirs and bleed it through to the calipers.
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06-11-2015, 10:37 AM | #8 |
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PS. I did check my manual as well and it doesn't mention doing anything different for the ABS system that I read, but there is nothing more reliable or valuable than first hand 'experience/results/confirmation'. I'm thankful for all the information and help that is given to us by the forum members ... 'its priceless'... and sure beats having to use my MasterCard at the dealership to fix something that I screwed up because I over looked something. Cheers
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06-11-2015, 10:45 AM | #9 |
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06-11-2015, 10:46 AM | #10 |
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That's for sure.
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06-11-2015, 12:30 PM | #11 |
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Just replaced the pads and fluid on my 2012 Voyager ABS. Used fresh fluid and vaccum pump from Harbour Freight. Also changed the clutch fluid, had more trouble with the clutch than the brakes, had to rebleed them, my fault. Just bleed as normal.
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06-11-2015, 05:36 PM | #12 |
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Thx for the info. Rick and to all the rest of the folks who replied, its all greatly appreciated . Hey Rick I hope the rebleed went well, is there anything to "not do" when doing the clutch....because I once (ok maybe it was twice) had a supervisor who told me that I was actually pretty good at 'not doing things' .Cheers.
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06-11-2015, 07:39 PM | #13 |
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since were on the subject what pads does everybody recommend OEM or EBC I always been told on my 1500 to use oem and I tried ebc and I seen why lasted less than half of the factory pad.
but for the 1700 I've read that there is a better ebc pad out there any thoughts |
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06-11-2015, 10:50 PM | #14 |
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Great question, I have done brakes and clutches on all my previous bikes, this one the linked ABS, I was curious as well.
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06-11-2015, 11:30 PM | #15 |
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Skullbagger, I haven't needed new pads yet only 20,000 km. and still looking good. I did read a few posts on the subject and I think quite a few people were recommending OEM for good general performance and rotor wear/life under non overly aggressive/spirited riding... with riding styles being a main consideration for performance requirements. Quite a few riders wanted pads that provided maximum stopping power, but it was mentioned that with some pads there was too much which presented a potential to lock up the back wheel under hard braking . Someone did mention a semi-sintered pad from EBC that were a newer design and specific for heavier cruisers which would be less prone to lock up. That's all I got. Cheers.
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