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09-16-2009, 09:56 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
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Clock losing time
Its a digital clock so it should keep time as long as it has power.
If it flashes 1:00 as soon as you hit the starter button, it a good sign that your battery is getting weak and needs to be replaced.
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2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951 |
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09-17-2009, 07:59 AM | #3 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: sparta, wi
Posts: 82
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Clock losing time
hey
my 2002 does the same thing on a hot restart (restart within a couple mins of a hot shut down) blameing it on the compression, programer that was installed before i got the bike last month.....atleast until winter when i can change out the battery thats orignal.....i would agree that the battery is weak..... |
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09-17-2009, 08:23 AM | #4 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
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Clock losing time
My bike has been doing it also on occasion when I try to start it on a colder night with the two front driving lamps and handlebar heaters on. Im hoping to get another few weeks out of the battery before the bike is parked for the winter. I'll install a fresh one in the spring.
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2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951 |
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09-17-2009, 10:50 AM | #5 |
Sr. Contributor
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tamworth New Hampster 06 1600
Posts: 12,484
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Clock losing time
It could be a sign the battery is getting tired. It could be that too much is ON when the start motor is being used too.
That start motor instantly draws apx 365 amps. While it does this there are stock items also On at the same time. Several minor draw lamps, the ECU and coild which draw some un-known figure to me, and assorted bling some of you guys add. This is onr reason both pairs of my passing lamps are wired direct to the battery, on their own circuits. One set draws 6.+ amps and the other 9.+ amps, the start motor doesn't need to see. The alt puts out in theory 42 amps... Something to look at when you add bling.. The battery is 18 Ah. In general this is pretty high for a bike, but the system has it's limits.. i wouldn't bet that 42 amps is real either. Hi beam might be 7 ampish (stock) The ecu could be about 8 add 9 for passing lamps 7 more for my 2nd set of passing lamps gets me at apx 31 amps... pretty close to what the bike makes if I am not riding at 6,000 rpm.... No one rides at 6,000 rpm.... That to me is my max load, to run anything else and something gets turned off... According to my volt meter ON 24/7 with everthing ON and running at highway RPM I charge at 13.3 to 13.7 At shut down times likr getting gas I try to turn off my passing lamps before the key switch, and let the engine linger a moment. This will get my idle rpm to charge as high as 15 dcv sometimes.
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06 1600 Nomad Just call me Mac molon labe come and get it Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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09-17-2009, 01:47 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,263
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Clock losing time
weak battery, don't ask me how I know that. :-)
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09-17-2009, 04:24 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
Posts: 5,792
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Clock losing time
Or it could be corroded connections on the battery. Make sure they are clean and tight before doing anything else.
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Bob KawaNOW/VBA 210 Green/Silver 2006 Patriot Guard Riders 2009 |
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09-17-2009, 10:18 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: sparta, wi
Posts: 82
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Clock losing time
i am looking into going more to led lights, but with the turn signals run thru the automatic electronic flasher, changing the wattage that they are looking for to flash normal may be a lot of work....or if you just install load equalizers (resistors to simulate a normal bulb) you gain nothing as far as saving power.....may do something with the rear two brake/tail bulbs....will save 8 watts each on tail, 27 watts each on the brake lamp........
but the largest thing is the two driving lights on the light bar....could run with them off but seems like since i have had this bike more cars have pulled out infront of me without them on during the day time.....so on they stay......... looking at replacement 4 inch led bulbs to go into the driving light buckets......have only been looking on line, no firm prices yet or really if they will fit but wehelen, which makes emergency lights and light bars, has them both with and without lenses.....no lens then like a spot light..with lens then would be more of a driving/fog light.......this would lower the draw a lot, i think they draw like 55 watts each all the time........ can you tell i have an older late 70's smallish road bike that had very limited electrical power? if i can convince my better half i need them, and i get them to work i will post something alan |
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09-18-2009, 08:38 AM | #9 |
Sr. Contributor
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tamworth New Hampster 06 1600
Posts: 12,484
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Clock losing time
Allen if you add in a voltmeter, you might monitor driving lamps. JC Whitney has small round lamps easily adapted to a bike in there car catalog. These are painted universal black, so you can paint them any other way you want.
They do come with E-3 55 watts bulbs, but you can order wagner e-3 bulbs from any auto store worthy of the name in 25 watts and 35 watts. My 1981 XS 850 Sh Yammi triple will run these with 35 watts lamps, at speed. The main hi/lo is a snowmobile bulb at 110/90, and so that has just a litte draw too.. Off the top of my head i think that Alt makes 22 amps max, and the battery is 18 Ah. This bike will nit begin to charge till apx 2,800 RPM is met. At red lights I must turn them off, and wait till I am moving again at speed to swtich them back on.
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06 1600 Nomad Just call me Mac molon labe come and get it |
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09-19-2009, 12:24 AM | #10 |
Sr. Contributor
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Clock losing time
Switch to Energizer Bunny, they keep going and going and. Just kidding, does sound like your clock isn't getting the power it needs to keep proper time. Like they said, weak battery and like Yellow Jacket said, corroded terminals. This can keep the correct amount of power from going where it needs to go.
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Gene Cross, Jr. Boaz, Alabama KawaNOW/VBA #1181 |
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