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#1 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Central Arkansas
Posts: 45
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Blowing fuses
Have blown the 10 amp fuse that controls the tail lights, brake lights and 2 front lightbar lights twice the last few weeks. Since the bike is 15 years old I didn't think much about it the first time, but about a week after replacing it blew again. I know I need to search for rubbed wires shorting out, any clues for making this a faster process? I'm not much good with electrical stuff, and have never had this problem before. 2000 Nomad 1500 Fi.
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#2 |
Sr. Contributor
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tamworth New Hampster 06 1600
Posts: 12,484
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Maybe the main harness under the tank tie wrapped to the frame has chaffed. The tie wrap there if it is still oem has a release tab, so check it before you cut it. Look between the harness and the frame. This was a known issue once.
Next go after any known bumps to any of these lamps. Wiggle them ON and wiggle the wires around too. Try to get fuse to blow. This may point to a problem.
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06 1600 Nomad Just call me Mac molon labe come and get it |
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#3 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Central Arkansas
Posts: 45
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Will do, thanks for the reply.
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: May 2009
Location: Montreal QC
Posts: 12,034
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This bike may not have a relay for the driving lights and they are over taxing the parking light circuit. Disconnect the driving lights for awhile and see if you stop blowing fuses.
The dealer wired my brand new bike up that way and I was blowing fuses, when asked they said nope couldn't be the problem we wire all the bikes that way. I put a relay in and never let them touch my bike again.
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Norm Ward 2008 blue / silver nomad kawanow / VBA #01136 |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
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^^^ I think thats the reason as well, thats a lot of lights on that one circuit. The driving lamps should be on their own fuse.
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2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951 Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Illinois
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#7 |
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Location: Marietta, GA
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#8 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Central Arkansas
Posts: 45
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Yeah, thats my thinking too, I've had this Nomad for 10 years and this is a first. Probably a short, haven't located it yet but will keep looking. Thanks for all the responses.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Illinois
Posts: 197
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Illinois
Posts: 197
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Also a "short" normal does not have these symtoms. What you have described is usually and overload condition where the fuse heats up over time.
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#11 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Woodleaf ,NC
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also if you have a volt meter that reads continuity on it you can find the hot side of the fuse put one point of the meter on it then disconnect the battery then put the other side of the meter on the frame and you can jiggle the wires and it will alert you ( mine buzzes) without having to blow fuse after fuse to track it down,
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2001 Vulcan Nomad 1500cc Carbed Model. |
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#12 |
Sr. Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,464
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I ran the setup you are running (spots on running light circuit) for 7 years and no overload problem. You don't have a over load or a direct short. That over load would require that you load had changed and it hasn't. And a short would blow your fuse immediately. You have a intermittent ground on a hot wire. Mac's suggestion on the wire bundle chaffing and the one on checking near the light sockets are both good but the loosest area (wire bundles just hanging out where they can rub thru) is in the headlamp housing. That is also the area that gets messed with when they originally hooked up your spots. Go inside and look at where the spots are spliced into the running lamp circuit. Bet you find your bare spot on a hot wire there.
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trosco: just call me Ross 2007 Black & Titanium Nomad (Nomad made 65K but got replaced 2014) 2010 Titanium Goldwing 2014 KLR 650 New Edition |
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#13 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 87
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Check the bundle over the rear cylinder for a chafe for sure.
About that not running a relay part and it lasting 15 years, look for the blue scotch locks that stupidly probably came with the lightbar. See what's going on there. Intermittent stuff is the worst. I would re-do the lightbar. I think the accesory lead may be under the tank on a Nomad though. http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....correctly.html |
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#14 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Central Arkansas
Posts: 45
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So far I haven't been able to find any chafed or cracked wires or loose connections. I did however discover that when i wiggled one of the the connectors on the back of the driving lights switch, they went on and off. So I'm guessing there's some kind of short inside the switch housing. I turned the switch off and have ridden a few days with no blown fuses.
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#15 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2009
Location: Montreal QC
Posts: 12,034
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Quote:
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Norm Ward 2008 blue / silver nomad kawanow / VBA #01136 |
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