My puzzle

[ldhthept]

06 Nomad almost 70k, big three, cam chain extenders years ago. About two months ago I developed a tapping in front left cylinder. It’s not there at idle but is from approx 1500 rpm on up. Not the usual bottom end tapping after bike has been setting for some time. I have ran Mobil 1 from almost the day I got it and am familiar with the usual noise she likes to make especially after sitting for a few days. This tapping is more sewing machine like and I can hear it while riding with my ear buds in, music playing, and full face helmet on. I have made sure oil level is correct and used Seafoam in gas and oil, bounced it off the rev limiter several times, changed the oil to Ma Kaw synthetic, tightened everything on the bike, even took out the plugs and regapped them. In doing the plugs I found a little oil in the right rear plug tube. Does that mean that the O rings on the tubes need replacing or something more sinister? The plugs are only a few months old and are my second set of iridiums which I replaced when I replaced my coolant. Throttle body and air filter are clean, changed my EFI back to factory settings as I was running a bit rich. I even took it to the dealer mechanic who said it could be nothing or could be expensive...well thanks for that! MY PUZZLE; is it time for a valve and ring refresh (and who knows what else) which I am assuming is the expensive part the mechanic is speaking of. Or time for another bike? Ive been toying with the idea of another Nomad with a lot less miles and newer, Vaquero, Indian Springfield or other, something with better brakes, cruise, a little more power. I live in Florida which for many months is Southern Fried Hot a really need the bike to run cooler. I really like the Indian having the rear cylinder cut off when stopped but not that it is air cooled.
I need the wisdom of the group to solve the puzzle, any takers?

[DragonLady58]

What weight oil are you running? Being a 06' and having 70K on the clock, thats not a lot for these bikes.....they seem to make it to about 100K before actually needing anything at all, and about 120-140K before needing rebuild to freshen everything up. Then, usually, the lower end is usually still pretty tight, just needing inserts.
The tapping is either clearances have opened up some in the cylinder/lifter, and the heat of being in the lower US.
In a bike that has 70K, I would not be using a synth, I'd be using a synth blend. You'd get alot of the synth. perks, without alot of the leaks. Synths in bikes over 65K is just asking for leaks around seals bearings and bushings.
If, it were me, it was my bike, I'd go to a 20w50 synth blend, using 1/2 quart of lucas oil stabilizer in the mix.
1. This will give you some cushion on parts that have a little wear on them,
2. Raise your oil pressure slightly, and let your engine run cooler,
3. 20w50 deals with heat alot better than 10w30 or even 20w40. The south florida heat is every bit as punishing as being in a desert. The thicker oil will cushion your parts, the lucas will add alot of film strength, and avoid dry startups.

Only you can say if your ready for a new bike. Your old one has alot of life left in her....
While a new bike is appealing , to you is it worth the extra output of money? How my does your ride mean to you? You could have your engine gone thru, for less than $2500, and essentially have a brand new performing bike.
Its all in what 'YOU' want....I love the 1500/1600s, not even my Vaquero can turn me from my lowly 001' Nomad....

[ldhthept]

Mobil 1 10w40 since 2008. Last oil change the dealer did because I could not get oil screen drain plug out. They used Kawasaki synthetic. This tapping was going on before dealer did oil change.

[DragonLady58]

Well, I don't know what they are thinking, 10w40 would be great for a new bike. I would be running at least a 15w40 Rotella at the least, or Lucas 20w50 as my goto oil. Whether its mobil 1, Pennsoil, whatever....the least should be a 15w40 at the very least, in a synth blend or a good quality dino oil.

These big ole motors will tell you if your going in the right direction, they'll start easier, rattle less, run slightly cooler....

The 1500/1600s make noises, period. They rumble, they rattle they tap, as long as you can hear them, they'll tell you when somethings wrong....its up to you to listen to them....

All you have to loose is a is some tapping and a oil change. If not satisfied, you can always go back....

[ldhthept]

Really appreciate and value your opinions DL. I will change oil to a different blend and add the Lucas as suggested. Thx.

[andyvh1959]

I agree with DL. For a bike in the heat of Florida, Mobil1 10w-40 is way too thin. Also, is that Mobil1 for v-twins or just the Mobil1 you can buy everywhere for cars? Even though these great big Vulcan V-twins are water cooled (heads and barrels) they still need all the protection of a API SH or SJ class oil (JASO MA). If the Mobil1 you've been running doesn't meet those specs I'd put the money into a dino-lube or synth blend which meets the SH or SJ class. The Kawasaki factory service manual calls for 10W40:
API SE, SF or SG class,
or API SH or SJ with JASO MA

But keep in mind that is a general, all over the world oil recommendation. Again for the heat and humidity of Florida, 20W50 is a better choice. I say humidity too, because engines breathe in the air and moisture. When you regularly ride in humid weather its a good practice to ride at least a 1/2 hour at highway speeds to make sure the engine gets fully heated enough to flash off the moisture it breathes in. One of the worst things to do to any bike, is do nothing but little five or ten mile rides around town. Bad for the oil, bad for the battery. Get it out and ride it, highway speeds, minimum 1/2 hour at least once a week.

Mobil1 V-twin oil, 20W50, meets SH, SG, and exceeds the rating for SJ.

Mobil1 Racing 4T, 10W40, meets SN and JASO MA or JASO MA2. It contains more phosphorus and zinc than does the Mobil1 for cars engines.