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Old 07-29-2008, 09:00 PM   #31
Cajunrider   Cajunrider is offline
 
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Synthetic vs Petroleum

Just did my 4,000 mile change Saturday. Mobil 1 20w-50 for $8.58 per quart and SuperTech filter for $2.48 at WalMart. I spoke to the mechanic at the dealership who put my son's V900 together about blending 20w-50 and 10w-40 in the winter months. He told me that many he knows do this but the specific gravity of the 20w-50 is higher than the 10w-40 causing the heavier oil to settle at the bottom of the crankcase overnight. Working in the NGL industry with different component specific gravitys never brought this to my mind. I would have thought that the oils would have blended somewhere between 20/50 and 10/40 and remained there. He did say that shortly after the engine is started the oils are blended again??
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Old 07-29-2008, 10:37 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajunrider
Just did my 4,000 mile change Saturday. Mobil 1 20w-50 for $8.58 per quart and SuperTech filter for $2.48 at WalMart. I spoke to the mechanic at the dealership who put my son's V900 together about blending 20w-50 and 10w-40 in the winter months. He told me that many he knows do this but the specific gravity of the 20w-50 is higher than the 10w-40 causing the heavier oil to settle at the bottom of the crankcase overnight. Working in the NGL industry with different component specific gravitys never brought this to my mind. I would have thought that the oils would have blended somewhere between 20/50 and 10/40 and remained there. He did say that shortly after the engine is started the oils are blended again??

Let's hear from the experts on this one.... I would have thought they blended.... ::) and if they don't.... is there a problem with the heavier oil settling anyway? My understanding is that 20-50 is 20wt that acts like 50 at higher temps...

C'mon BD and Cadd... enlighten....

(I love oil threads) lol







 
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Old 07-31-2008, 01:16 AM   #33
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Synthetic vs Petroleum

As far as I know to have the API symbol on them, all engine oils must be compatible and should blend just fine.

If you mix 10w40 and 20w-50 you do not get 15w-45 though. The business isn't proportional as far as the numbers go.

This should be easy to prove, Nico. Put some 10w40 and 20w-50 in a glass jar and shake it up good. Let it sit over night & see if it settles out in 2 layers. I do not think it will.
 
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Old 08-01-2008, 10:43 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caddmannq
As far as I know to have the API symbol on them, all engine oils must be compatible and should blend just fine.

If you mix 10w40 and 20w-50 you do not get 15w-45 though. The business isn't proportional as far as the numbers go.

This should be easy to prove, Nico. Put some 10w40 and 20w-50 in a glass jar and shake it up good. Let it sit over night & see if it settles out in 2 layers. I do not think it will.

Now you tell me Cadd... I used BD's alternate method. I drank some of each and waited to see which came out first.... ;)


 
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Old 08-01-2008, 03:36 PM   #35
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well with the 15w being lighter, that should have come out through the mouth, and the 45w being heavier should have come out the, well, lets just say no need for Preparation H is needed.



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Old 08-01-2008, 08:50 PM   #36
coacha   coacha is offline
 
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Synthetic vs Petroleum

I run 20W-50 synthetic in mine, can't remember the brand (Castrol probably from Autozone).
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Old 08-01-2008, 09:36 PM   #37
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Royal Purple Max-Cycle 20W50 summer; 10W40 winter.
 
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Old 08-02-2008, 07:39 PM   #38
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Nico, with the mixture you're running, you'd see stripes in the site glass. ;)

And please believe me when I say that being Italian does NOT give you the ability to digest motor oil. Olive oil, yes. Canola oil, fine, Peanut oil? OK if you're not allergic. Corn oil? Sure, but forget the motor oil. You'll be springing a leak that no additive will stop. ;)
 
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:49 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caddmannq
Nico, with the mixture you're running, you'd see stripes in the site glass. ;)

And please believe me when I say that being Italian does NOT give you the ability to digest motor oil. Olive oil, yes. Canola oil, fine, Peanut oil? OK if you're not allergic. Corn oil? Sure, but forget the motor oil. You'll be springing a leak that no additive will stop. ;)


;)

 
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Old 08-05-2008, 07:39 PM   #40
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LOL
 
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Old 08-10-2008, 03:21 AM   #41
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Synthetic vs Petroleum

MOBIL 1 V TWIN 20W50 CHANGED IT TODAY @ 4000 MILES ( NEW BIKE) . TOOK A SHORT 250 MILE TRIP UP ON Ca. 49 AND BACK HOME . I DID NOTICE A DIFFERENCE. RIDE SAFE ! DJH
 
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Old 08-12-2008, 10:36 PM   #42
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Synthetic vs Petroleum

Changed using Kawasaki oil, 20w50 Petroleum. Am thinking to change to the Mobile1 Synthetic 15w50, in the next 1,500 miles. I'm not happy with the feel of the shifting or the sound of the pistons.
 
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Old 08-08-2024, 04:07 AM   #43
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I've used both and find synthetic more reliable than petroleum. It is easier to predict the lifespan of the engine.
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Old 08-11-2024, 01:16 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Pop Alexandra View Post
I've used both and find synthetic more reliable than petroleum. It is easier to predict the lifespan of the engine.
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I have never had a mechanical failure due to an oiling issue.
The lifespan of an engine is decided by many factors and not just the type of oil that is used.
I have used both regular and synthetic oil and for my needs regular oil is sufficient and the added cost of synthetic is unjustified.
 
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