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04-04-2010, 06:46 PM | #16 | |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
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Dead Bike
Quote:
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04-04-2010, 06:50 PM | #17 | |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
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Dead Bike
Quote:
The top 15amp fuse is where your anti tilt switch is, in case the bike is ever dropped it shuts off the fuel pump.
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04-04-2010, 07:20 PM | #18 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Temple, TX
Posts: 37
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Dead Bike
I'm about to head out to the garage and see if I can find the problem. I wished I had the problem of the flickering, I dont have any lights or power to anything. If its the ignition, it may be time to look into the keyless ignition like on a friend of mines Ultra Classic.
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04-04-2010, 07:52 PM | #19 | |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
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Dead Bike
Quote:
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2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951 |
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04-04-2010, 08:36 PM | #20 |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Jacksonville, FL.
Posts: 306
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Dead Bike
I had a similar issue earlier this year. Went to start, everything looked and sounded good until I hit the start button. Everything simply went dead. I checked all the stuff mentioned in this thread and all was good. Took a meter to my battery. It read 12 volts, but when I hit the start switch, it dropped to almost nothing. Needless to say, the battery was gone.
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04-04-2010, 09:05 PM | #21 |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Boulder County, Colorado
Posts: 2,014
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Dead Bike
Like Nighhawk says, the battery can't be determined to be good until load tested. After setting all winter it is a reasonable possibility that its gone. Modern batteries can be flaky regardless of age.
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04-04-2010, 09:07 PM | #22 |
Sr. Contributor
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tamworth New Hampster 06 1600
Posts: 12,484
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Dead Bike
I replied to your thread at beartooth, but will repeat you must get a meter and a test light.
The difference between here and beartooth is these guys are crack techs for the better part. You get real fast answers and if you buy the bloomin tools we say, you get damnned accurate answers, and will be told how to test. My current thinking is the cable ends need to be cleaner, brushed clean, or sanded, but the little devils are tough to sand. I do wonder if that charger was really clipped on well, but the battery is just 2 years old. These AGM batts are good, very very good.
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04-04-2010, 10:07 PM | #23 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Temple, TX
Posts: 37
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Dead Bike
Well, checked the battery (11.6 volts, battery is 7 months old), cleaned the terminal cable ends, found and checked the main fuse (good) and still nothing. I cant load test it because the bike will not turn on at all. Guess I'll be buying a new ignition.
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04-04-2010, 10:40 PM | #24 |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada
Posts: 340
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Dead Bike
Buy a load tester, or better yet take out the battery and get the local auto parts guy to load test it... That will be way cheaper then throwing parts at a problem.
What makes you think it's ignition? Did you test your ignition switch?
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04-04-2010, 10:44 PM | #25 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 129
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Dead Bike
Quote:
I would still expect the battery to have enough energy to dimly light the turn signals but unless the starter solenoid kicks in your headlight relay may not trigger so you won't see any headlight. This sure sounds to me like you have a bad connection somewhere though. It sounds like the charging circuit has not kept the battery charged, probably because of a bad connection. This can be one of the hardest things to chase in any kind of system. Substituting a known good battery is one trick. Disconnect the ground and positive leads from your existing battery and use jumper cables to connect them to a known good battery and see what happens. You have to be careful to not short anything to the frame and don't short the jumper cable ends together. Good luck on the trouble shooting and let us know what you find. |
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04-04-2010, 10:49 PM | #26 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Temple, TX
Posts: 37
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Dead Bike
I think it's the ignition switch because even if the bike would not turn over, the lights and the fuel pump would come on. Probably weak but they would turn on. I can't even push start the bike. My old Sportster had a battery would not hold a load, but it would turn on and the lights would somewhat work.
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04-04-2010, 10:56 PM | #27 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Temple, TX
Posts: 37
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Dead Bike
I'm going to take the battery out tomorrow after work and have it load tested. I'll then test the ignition switch. I hate electrical grimelins. I really appreciate the help and suggestions.
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04-04-2010, 11:39 PM | #28 |
Sr. Contributor
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Dead Bike
Greg, it shouldn't be a bad battery. Sounds like something isn't making a connection. These batteries should last a minimum of five years and maybe up to eight years. I would make sure everything is tight. It shouldn't be a starter problem but then you never know. At least you are covered by warranty. You can take the battery out and have it checked at a parts store.
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04-05-2010, 05:49 AM | #29 |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Jacksonville, FL.
Posts: 306
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Dead Bike
You checked the battery while hitting the start switch? That's the trick. Mine read good while static, but when I hit the start switch....nothing. It turns out one of the cells was bad. Mine was 2-1/12 years old. The warranty on the battery was 2 years. Replaced with new one, fired right up.
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04-05-2010, 08:36 AM | #30 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Temple, TX
Posts: 37
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Dead Bike
Ok, I removed the battery and looked at the battery in my 4 wheeler and got an idea. I started the 4 wheeler with my Nomad's battery with no problem, and tried to start the Nomad with the 4 wheelers battery and got the same results as the Nomad's battery. Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the 1500 Nomad FI? I rechecked all the connections under the seat, handle bars and the few under the triple trees. I figure there are a few in the headlight bucket, but would they effect the bike in this way?
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