Clutch

[cnc]

Originally Posted by dmweder

Macmac...

There is no pattern to it that I can notice yet. I have not put that many miles on it yet. Just bought it. Dealer just replaced the clutch springs and it is much less. New synthetic oil. Still adjusting to the heel shifter. I do not think I have ever . Used it from first to second. I did not know there was a lubrication point behind the engine cover. Will consult the manual....

These bikes shift better with the heel shifter, gett used to it and use it for all up shifts.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by dmweder

Macmac...

There is no pattern to it that I can notice yet. I have not put that many miles on it yet. Just bought it. Dealer just replaced the clutch springs and it is much less. New synthetic oil. Still adjusting to the heel shifter. I do not think I have ever . Used it from first to second. I did not know there was a lubrication point behind the engine cover. Will consult the manual....

There is no book spec on oiling the pivot the shifters are mounted too, that passes thru a bushing in the frame. Oil it. next lay down on your back and look up under the bike by the shifter as you are oiling that pivot and LOOK behind the engine cover and wiggle the shifter and you will see a rod with socket like ends oil those too. And while you are at it oil the side stand pivot too. maybe yours won't oval out and toss off springs that hold it up. I have been oiling these since week 1.

When riding first allow the engine to warm a little by riding easy. USE that Heel shifter to up shift. Do it firmly like you mean it, not lightly, and not crushingly hard, just firmly, and it should snick into gear.

When mine gets crunchy it's time for oil and filter, and I run mobile 1 high mileage full syn 10w/40 mixed with 5w/30.

This might start an argument but this is a water air oil cooled bike engine and it has wicked small orifices for the lifters, and so I thin'k oils in the ranged og 20w/50 are just wrong. of course if you like hearing ratty slapping lifters starved for oil, use 20w/50

[dmweder]

Thanks macmac....I will check that out when I get home tonight!! You are correct, nothing in the manual..

[VulcanE]

Like Mac said, when you shift it, don't baby it, use the heel shifter and do it firm & quick, don't stomp on it, but do it deliberately. That neutral finder does make the shifts from 1st to 2nd different than the others.

[dmweder]

Wow. You guys were right....

I oiled the shaft. Then adjusted the heel shifter up one notch so its easier to use. Previous owner had it just below the level of the floorboard. Went for a test ride.

Every upshift through neutral using the heel was smooth, except for one where I hesitated an did it slow. Now I just have to practice so it become second nature. Thanks guys!!

[macmac]

Like i said oil the side stand pivot and looking under the bike on yer back find and lube the rod there on the bell cranks. ball and socket thangs.

My heel pad is just above the board too, and i keep my foot forward just a bit.

I guess because my body is all screwed up I flat foot that left board most of the time and my right toes are on the highway peg on the other side with my heel still on the rt board. That peg is about even with the rr brake. Handy to ogle pretty women and or sharply brake for MOOSE.

Uh, this site isn't like most sites. This site has a lot of techs and engineers. You get real answers in between us raggin' around.

[KawiKid]

Good Morning Gents....

I have a 99' Vulcan Nomad that has 160000 on it and is still 'tiddly'.... the problem is I had the clutch replaced last year and the slave done.... when my mechanic took it apart the clutch was looked rusted and there was condensation on that side.... when you shifted into first it would jerk to start rolling.

So I had it replaced, I don't have the history on this bike as I am the 4th owner, it doesn't look abused, just lovely.... So shortly after replacing the clutch.... it started the jerking again.... which is dangerous. I wouldn't ride it to work as this is a serious problem.... My ride to work is about 8 miles.
Last night I started it and let is warm up nicely then tried shifting from neutral to 1st and it wouldn't disengage properly to let me shift and release the clutch lever. Immediately jerked into first and stalled, I keep my hand on the brake. Your thoughts as to how to deal with this would greatly be appreciated. I am wondering about replacing the line from the master cylinder to the slave and getting new kits for both again. I have a 98' Concours and a 76' KZ 900 Z1 and have never had the slightest problem with the clutches.

Last summer I had the coolant drained and renewed and I'm not sure if there might have been some air in the system because the overflow was empty so I filled it up again and it was down.... Then last night when I ran it I brought the overflow tank up to the 'line' and just checked it and it stayed there after it cooled down. I thought there might have been a leak that somehow there was coolant getting into the clutch side....

Didn't mean to 'write a book here'.... thanks for any assistance you can give me.... KK

[recumbentbob]

Originally Posted by KawiKid

Good Morning Gents....

I have a 99' Vulcan Nomad that has 160000 on it and is still 'tiddly'.... the problem is I had the clutch replaced last year and the slave done.... when my mechanic took it apart the clutch was looked rusted and there was condensation on that side.... when you shifted into first it would jerk to start rolling.

So I had it replaced, I don't have the history on this bike as I am the 4th owner, it doesn't look abused, just lovely.... So shortly after replacing the clutch.... it started the jerking again.... which is dangerous. I wouldn't ride it to work as this is a serious problem.... My ride to work is about 8 miles.
Last night I started it and let is warm up nicely then tried shifting from neutral to 1st and it wouldn't disengage properly to let me shift and release the clutch lever. Immediately jerked into first and stalled, I keep my hand on the brake. Your thoughts as to how to deal with this would greatly be appreciated. I am wondering about replacing the line from the master cylinder to the slave and getting new kits for both again. I have a 98' Concours and a 76' KZ 900 Z1 and have never had the slightest problem with the clutches.

Last summer I had the coolant drained and renewed and I'm not sure if there might have been some air in the system because the overflow was empty so I filled it up again and it was down.... Then last night when I ran it I brought the overflow tank up to the 'line' and just checked it and it stayed there after it cooled down. I thought there might have been a leak that somehow there was coolant getting into the clutch side....

Didn't mean to 'write a book here'.... thanks for any assistance you can give me.... KK

You should have started a new thread.

[macmac]

I have lots of questions. Start your own thread.