Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer

[Silent Sam]

Well ...AS FOR.. Auto parts Store Demo-Gee-Gawz... the whilly-wheel thing a ma-jig, is a device designed to demonstrate the "Anti-Neutonian" property's of Lucas..and other similar additives !

"ANTI-NEUTONIAN" is a term used to identiy a fluid that will -Climb- and Cling, to turning/spinning equipment... Where "Neutonian Fluids" would be thrown away/off..by centrifigal forces !

Most "Common Motor Oils", are "Neutonian"..thus the advantage of additvies such as Lucas..STP etc.

Maybe I have clarified the issue a bit ... then again, maybe not !

[clayton]

Bapps
Do not put Lucas in your oil unless like Mac said, to possibly help seal the inner bearing for the water pump.
And only put a small amount in.
I did...I now regret it.
Short story a week after I did add Lucas to my oil...my lifters (HLA's) sounded like rattle snakes.
That was almost 2 years ago...the rattle never went away...it did get quieter but they still rattle.
I did several rounds of putting Sea Foam in the oil to help clean them out and did reduce this rattle 60 to 70 percent but I am plagued with this noise every single day after my Lucas treatment.
When I start the bike it is almost embarrassing but after about 10 minutes the noise goes away.
I have resigned to the fact that I need to pull the heads and replace the HLA's or do what I have been doing for 2 years...start the bike allow it to warm up (3-4 mins) turn it off wait about 5 and go ride.
What ever Lucas did to them is not reversible and now the HLA's bleed off far to fast which is one reason they rattle.
For others reading this in the event, I have done the Cam Chain Extenders job so it is not the chains.
Unfortunately I cannot find a good recorded that will record this noise however I took the bike to a shop and the guy said lifters is what is making this noise.
BTW HLA is Hydraulic Lash Adjuster...lifters :)

[Silent Sam]

LUCAS/DURALUBE..and such... I only tell on myself, and the results I experience....soooo

...I bought the Big Assed 2002 Nomad, from a young guy who had made a run to Canada with his wife on the back..he said he was doing more than 500 miles a day..

...His wife flew home..and when he got home she instructed him to "sell that damn motorcycle befor he got hurt"..being a really good looking gal..And he might of been suffering a real "Dry-Spell"..he put it up for sale..

When I got it @ aprox. 9500 miles,..the upper cyl clatter was --signifigant,..So I began using 16oz DuraLube And 16oz Lucas..with three qts Shell Rotella T 15-40 ("anti foaming") motor oil every 4,000 miles, (and a NAPA GOLD #1357 oil Filter)

..After adding plastic fuel hose to the injector pumps..and tucking the hose ends into the air induction cross tunnel...I was able to get a considerable amount of noise reduction...However, it does like a 5 minute warm up, on a cold start...and I wear ear plugs..at age 67 to try to salvage whats left of my hearing, ...after all those years of guns, drilling rigs, stock cars, crop dusters..on and on...

Once in a while I have run just oil with some Sea Foam in the crankcase for a "clean out til next service..but it makes about the same amount of "clatter" either way !...still less than when I got it ! ??

I just last week @47,000 miles on the meter, I replaced my OEM Clutch Spring with a Barnett Clutch Spring/Diaphram...(due to slippage that started at around 44k miles),

When I opened the clutch up..I used my dial micrometer, and measured every disc, and every friction plate...they ALL measured "NEW"

...I had never had clutch-slippage earlier..(other owner's have encountered clutch slippage around the same miles..or earlier, while using a variety of oils and no enhancer's)

...So I have concluded the Kawasaki Nomad Wet-Clutch, is OK with the additives, and the wear is none existant, perhaps due to the oil additives.

...I'm still going to continue to use my Lucas & the DuraLube....but that's ..just me ! :>)

[kmaysob]

ill stick to amsoil only and avoid the snake oil. only benefits i have ever seen from the additives is thickening of oil. that is usually what quiets things down. i had an old mazda that needed the lower end rebuilt. made a hell of a racket so i ran 40w in it until i sold it.

[Silent Sam]

Speaking of "Quieting Thing Down"..when I was --younger-- (yesterday..Ha) I bought a 1948 Ford F1 pick up from a farmer, he had just parked it years befor behind his barn in a "shelter belt"...My big brother and I got it started and it sounded pretty "tight" (flat head V8)...but it was a 'square-tooth 4 speed..and that old tranny whined and howled, at hiway speed..like a coyote caught in trap !

So we drained all the old tar like trans grease out and refilled with a 50%-50% mix of good quality gear lube...and STP...

That old tranny was a bit stiff to shift on a really cold start...but was smoooooth as Aker Bilk playin Stranger On The Shore...when she got wamed up....and never a whine.. had that truck for about 10 years...should have NEVER Sold It !

[ringadingh]

I'd avoid adding any type of thick oil product, for the reasons already mentioned.
I use Rotella oil and when I start the motor, the oil gauge reads 75-80 psi until it warms up, then it usually about 55-60psi and riding speeds. it drops to around 20psi at idle.
I'd be afraid of blowing out some seals if you raised the oil pressure any more.

[R_W_B]

Originally Posted by Silent Sam

Speaking of "Quieting Thing Down"..when I was --younger-- (yesterday..Ha) I bought a 1948 Ford F1 pick up from a farmer, he had just parked it years befor behind his barn in a "shelter belt"...My big brother and I got it started and it sounded pretty "tight" (flat head V8)...but it was a 'square-tooth 4 speed..and that old tranny whined and howled, at hiway speed..like a coyote caught in trap !

So we drained all the old tar like trans grease out and refilled with a 50%-50% mix of good quality gear lube...and STP...

That old tranny was a bit stiff to shift on a really cold start...but was smoooooth as Aker Bilk playin Stranger On The Shore...when she got wamed up....and never a whine.. had that truck for about 10 years...should have NEVER Sold It !

That's why I love the design of having the engine oil separate from the tranny. Unfortunately some engine designs choose otherwise.

[dshelly]

Originally Posted by ringadingh

I'd avoid adding any type of thick oil product, for the reasons already mentioned.
I use Rotella oil and when I start the motor, the oil gauge reads 75-80 psi until it warms up, then it usually about 55-60psi and riding speeds. it drops to around 20psi at idle.
I'd be afraid of blowing out some seals if you raised the oil pressure any more.

Oil pressure gauge? Mechanical or Electrical? How did you hook it up?

[rewindgy]

You can put anti-freeze in a Harley - the new ones - but it just leaks out!!!! Ha Ha Ha. ( And not the V-rod cause they don't leak!!). I guess there is a recall on the new Shower Head Harley's - they leak anti freeze from somewhere ( hoses / clamps / ????) I guess the leaking thing is hereditary - not sure about the clutch failing issue?? And, no, I am not bashing Harley's!!! A lot of my best friends ride HD. Not sure why, but they do! LOL

[ringadingh]

Originally Posted by dshelly

Oil pressure gauge? Mechanical or Electrical? How did you hook it up?

I installed an electric gauge in my fairing, its a real easy install.
The oem sending unit for the idiot light is located at the back of the motor on the LH side near the oil filter. I uncrewed it from the crankcase, and installed a brass Tee fitting. Then I srewed the original sending unit as well as the new one for the gauge into the Tee.
If you do a search here for gauge install, I have some pics posted somewhere.

[RiseLikeRa]

Amsoil and Sea Foam have never let me down yet!

I couldnt help myself.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by rewindgy

You can put anti-freeze in a Harley - the new ones - but it just leaks out!!!! Ha Ha Ha. ( And not the V-rod cause they don't leak!!). I guess there is a recall on the new Shower Head Harley's - they leak anti freeze from somewhere ( hoses / clamps / ????) I guess the leaking thing is hereditary - not sure about the clutch failing issue?? And, no, I am not bashing Harley's!!! A lot of my best friends ride HD. Not sure why, but they do! LOL

There's nothing like a little misinformation to fuel the fire, is there?

Most of the reports of the coolant system problems have to do with the system puking the coolant after use. The fix has to do with the pressure cap.

The recall was to address a defect in the hydraulic clutch, not the cooling system.

[Silent Sam]

Well I alway's admit right up front..that I let my 02 Nomad warm up at idle for about 5 minutes , on a "cold start"...to loosen-up those stiff "additives"

...maybe that Harley..needs the Prestone with the "cooling system -sealer" already in it ! ...

And YES..as for the 02 BigKawk Nomad I ride...if she's barfing coolent, after you shut down...It's almost 100% sure you ONLY need a new Radiator Cap !

But while you have the fuel tank off...to access the cap...do a good coolent flush and replace with new antifreeze/BTE/& sealent !

[carpeviam]

Originally Posted by Silent Sam

Well ...AS FOR.. Auto parts Store Demo-Gee-Gawz... the whilly-wheel thing a ma-jig, is a device designed to demonstrate the "Anti-Neutonian" property's of Lucas..and other similar additives !

"ANTI-NEUTONIAN" is a term used to identiy a fluid that will -Climb- and Cling, to turning/spinning equipment... Where "Neutonian Fluids" would be thrown away/off..by centrifigal forces !

Most "Common Motor Oils", are "Neutonian"..thus the advantage of additvies such as Lucas..STP etc.

Maybe I have clarified the issue a bit ... then again, maybe not !

While I haven't done any research on "Neutonian," as a mechanical engineer I do know that centrifugal force is not what throws fluids (or anything else for that matter) away or off a rotating body. Centrifugal force (from Newton's laws) is the equal and opposite force to the centripetal force of a rotating body and acts on the source of the centripetal force not on the body in motion. Centripetal force is the force that makes an object travel in a circular path. Without centripetal force a body in motion would continue in a straight line.

In the case of a rotating gear, the centripetal force is mechanical, being the material of the gear. The oil or fluid that is flung off a rotating gear does so due to Newtons first law of motion and the lack of sufficient centripetal force.

[degreaser]

Someone mentioned using Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic, I found out that even though Shell is allowed to print the word 'Synthetic' on the T6 5w40 container due to a marketing panel ruling, it's not a full synthetic, it's a dino-cracked Group III base oil. A full synthetic would be made from a minimum Group IV base. T6 is ok but just treat it as you would any regular dino oil and remember its only a 5 weight dino oil.