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Old 06-08-2014, 09:28 PM   #16
2Paps   2Paps is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Mr-Grimm View Post
I used valvoline 10-40 dino bike oil. I plan on going synthetic after the next change if this issue is resolved. I'll be all over the dealer about it next week.

As for new users putting info in the Sig line, gotta give folks time to figure out how.

I am no oil expert but I have followed the various oil threads on the forum so I know several folks have reported switching to synthetic early in the bike's life and reported no problems.

Since I am going into S. Utah and NV this Aug. I intended to switch to syn before the trip. This was based on the claims of bikes running cooler when using syn. I mentioned this to the service mgr at my local dealer and he said the 1700 transmission doesn't complete it's break-in until 10,000 mi. and Maw Kaw recommends non-synthetic oil until them. Fortunately I'll hit that milestone before Aug.

Take it for what it may be worth.

Ride safe!
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Old 06-08-2014, 09:44 PM   #17
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I tried synthetic in my Voyager and found no benefits in keeping the engine cooler or the transmission shifting better. I went back to dino oil due to the increase in cost of synthetic.
 
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Old 06-08-2014, 09:44 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 2Paps View Post
I am no oil expert but I have followed the various oil threads on the forum so I know several folks have reported switching to synthetic early in the bike's life and reported no problems.

Since I am going into S. Utah and NV this Aug. I intended to switch to syn before the trip. This was based on the claims of bikes running cooler when using syn. I mentioned this to the service mgr at my local dealer and he said the 1700 transmission doesn't complete it's break-in until 10,000 mi. and Maw Kaw recommends non-synthetic oil until them. Fortunately I'll hit that milestone before Aug.

Take it for what it may be worth.

Ride safe!
Well I switched to synthetic kawa oil at my first oil change on my 1600 in 2008, no issues. I kinda doubt it would take 10,000 miles to brake in a tranny.
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Old 06-08-2014, 09:55 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 2Paps View Post
I am no oil expert but I have followed the various oil threads on the forum so I know several folks have reported switching to synthetic early in the bike's life and reported no problems.

Since I am going into S. Utah and NV this Aug. I intended to switch to syn before the trip. This was based on the claims of bikes running cooler when using syn. I mentioned this to the service mgr at my local dealer and he said the 1700 transmission doesn't complete it's break-in until 10,000 mi. and Maw Kaw recommends non-synthetic oil until them. Fortunately I'll hit that milestone before Aug.

Take it for what it may be worth.

Ride safe!
RTFM. Your manual should say what oils to use and when. I know with my beemer the manual says no synthetic until 6K miles. I waited until 12K. I am sure if Kawasaki has a schedule for synthetic, it'll be in the owners manual.
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:01 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by redjay View Post
I tried synthetic in my Voyager and found no benefits in keeping the engine cooler or the transmission shifting better. I went back to dino oil due to the increase in cost of synthetic.
Synthetic holds up better, especially in bikes where the transmission and engine share the oil and in extreme conditions. There's a mountain of test data out there where comparisons are made.
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:03 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by cnc View Post
Well I switched to synthetic kawa oil at my first oil change on my 1600 in 2008, no issues. I kinda doubt it would take 10,000 miles to brake in a tranny.
It's taken about 20K miles for my BMW to break in. It's not abnormal for a pre-water cooled boxer to take that long.
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr-Grimm View Post
I used valvoline 10-40 dino bike oil. I plan on going synthetic after the next change if this issue is resolved. I'll be all over the dealer about it next week.

As for new users putting info in the Sig line, gotta give folks time to figure out how.
Click on the "User CP" in the upper red ribbon.

Now look on the left side and almost half way down click on "Edit Signature"

That will give you a message box that you can fill out your info.


Here is a help info link also:
http://vulcanbagger.com/forums/faq.p...l&titlesonly=0
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:58 PM   #23
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"Synthetic holds up better, especially in bikes where the transmission and engine share the oil and in extreme conditions. There's a mountain of test data out there where comparisons are made".

I dont doubt synthetic is better in the long run but why spend the extra for synthetic when I dont keep my bikes long enough to benefit from using synthetic ?
 
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:17 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redjay View Post
"Synthetic holds up better, especially in bikes where the transmission and engine share the oil and in extreme conditions. There's a mountain of test data out there where comparisons are made".

I dont doubt synthetic is better in the long run but why spend the extra for synthetic when I dont keep my bikes long enough to benefit from using synthetic ?
It's your call. As long as you use proper oil, it won't matter much in your case. If I still lived in Iowa, I could make a case for dino, not here in hell. I will say that bikes that share oil between transmission and engine are a lot harder on oil.

This guy could give you some advice on the Voyager. he has something like 250K miles on his: http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/member.php?u=1286
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Last edited by ponch; 06-08-2014 at 11:20 PM.
 
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:25 AM   #25
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Lol I don't care if it's dino oil or synthetic, I just wanna keep the gas outta it!
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:45 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by redjay View Post
I tried synthetic in my Voyager and found no benefits in keeping the engine cooler or the transmission shifting better. I went back to dino oil due to the increase in cost of synthetic.
I am thinking the same here. Bought enough plus filter for 2 changes. I am about 750 miles shy of 15,000, will change then using the rest of the synthetic I have before my summer trip to visit family. After that I'll be going back to dyno 10w40. I believe the guy Ponch refers to has never done any power adders, or used any synthetic oil and has over 250k miiles on his 09 is reason not to spend extra cash on parts and use it for gas instead.
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:03 AM   #27
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You could always send the used oil to a lab for analysis. This would tell you if it is gas in the oil and how the brand you are using holds up.
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Old 06-09-2014, 03:02 PM   #28
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You could always send the used oil to a lab for analysis. This would tell you if it is gas in the oil and how the brand you are using holds up.
+ 1
That's what I would do
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:18 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Mr-Grimm View Post
Yeah, I pulled both drain plugs and filter. The original oil was black as coal. I'm gonna put up some of the old oil and block off the pair valve today. Love this ride but glad it's under warranty.
ive been sending oil samples to blackstone labs since bike was new...always had a little fuel in oil, i may be running a tad rich
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:00 PM   #30
Mr-Grimm   Mr-Grimm is offline
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ive been sending oil samples to blackstone labs since bike was new...always had a little fuel in oil, i may be running a tad rich
Talked to the tech, he said it was normal for break in.
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