Swing arm maintenace

[VulcanE]

Another thing you might consider is "oil-lite" bronze bushings. You can get them in almost any thickness, and OD/ID. We use them a lot in die applications. They last alot longer than die grease and are what we call "sacrificial", but they wear really well.

[shoer00]

Try looking at mcmaster.com they carry many different shapes and sizes of mds filled nylon.

Wow! I haven't looked at a McMaster-Carr catalog in probably 15 years. I literally forgot they exist.

Thanks Shoer.

[Idaho]

Got the swing arm out, pain in butt getting the exhaust out of the way. Got the drive line off with no problems. Applied good quality moly grease and put everything together with medium loc-tite. I was carefull to bounce the front wheel to get the forks aligned before I snugged down the axle shaft. Took the bike for a quick spin after a short prayer. Lot's of stuff could have gone haywire. New tires, dynabeads to balance them, front fork problems, swing arm issues. The ride was smooth as glass. Only took the bike for a quick 5 miles and was only able to get it up to 55 mph but everything is nice and smooth. Looks like the mystery beads must work. I will let you all know after I get it out and wind it out on the interstate at 80 mph.

As to the fully fluffed ME880's, the jury is still out on those. I really did not notice that much difference in handling. Maybe time will tell.

I appreciate the great advice. Thanks,

[VulcanE]

Hey Idaho, To get the full effect of the 880's, Your going to have to find some "twisties", and let-er-roll!!!
Forgot to add After you take it easy on them for the first 100 miles or so. New tires ar a little slick on pavement. ;)

[macmac]

Ringadingh Great idea. Cadd is that the same as cutting boards for sewwing I wonder? The sewwwing boards seem like it to me.. They have markings silkscreened on them, but are already thin.

.I have some scrap that was machined, that could be re-machined. I don't have much left over, but I have enough for maybe 3 sets. I could post a hunk. This is a lot like nylon guides on a wood splitter too.

What was machined was because angle iron like parts needed to be made and bending it 'just right' wasn't happening, so Gordon milled them and it was like a big snow storm! LOL

he was knee deep in the shavings..

Let me check around a bit before you send it Mac. I'm sure I can get what I need locally. I just haven't been persistant enough. The Neoprene actually worked pretty well until it gave out.

[macmac]

I expect I will need to make a set, when the rear tire goes on.. I am pondering getting the seals out and re-using them since I am so friggin cheap.

The seals don't really wear much except on those thrust surfaces. I bought new ones "just because" but the lips were still good after 20,000+ miles.

[ridemslow]

That Gadget is the cat's ass , ain't he?

Originally Posted by Idaho (High Plains Drifter)

With my rear wheel off of the bike and most of the stuff out of the way I'm contemplating a lube job for the swing are bearings. (not even sure why there are bearings here as opposed to a brass sleeve but that is not the point) Gadgets page gives great directions on how to lube the bearings and also how to modify the sleeve with grooves to facilitate the transfer of grease to the bearings. It started me to thinking about the groves along the axis of the sleeve relative to the needle bearings. Won't the bearings have a tendency to 'fall' into the grooves? Also it seems that it may be worth it to have to dis-assemble the swing arm for proper inspection and maintenance and may be a valid reason to not install a zerk. So I thought that I would refer this quandry to those far smarter than I for opinions. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks, Idaho

Hey, just an update, since Ridemslow bumped this thread.

The new swingarm shims seem to have worked out well. I made them out of some dense polyurethane from some scrap packaging material. After about 1500 miles they seem to have not loosened up noticibly. I'll have to go gage them with the feelers later to see.

Also the new u-joint from the ATV worked dandy. I gave it hell on the ride to Zion, plus before and after too. I think it's going to outlast the engine. ;) Well, at least the tires. That joint's cheap & easy enough to change that I won't worry about it.

Also: Having the Bagger pipes makes it so much easier to get the swingarm off. I'm really glad I bought them, if for no other reason (and there certainly are other reasons!)

[ponch]

Here is a 1500, but it's basically the same: http://tinyurl.com/273zdk I have thought about using Krytox for the lube, but it's expensive. The stuff makes synthetic look like WD-40.

[ponch]

I am in the middle of the swing arm service and I have a couple observations and may be a question or two. On gadget's site, it says to disconnect the lower shock bolt and let it hang. I had to take both shocks off. Also, it says that 1600's have clips for the brake line. My swing arm does have two clips, but three loops too. I cut through them instead of removing the caliper. Lastly, he lists the swing arm pivot shaft torque as 94 ft lbs. The shop manual says 79.6 ft lbs. Which is right? I generally like to do things according to hoyle, so let me know what the correct figure is if anyone knows. Thanks.

Hmmm...
I've been using 94 ft-lb for the swingarm and 80 ft-lb for the axle, as I recall, but my bike is a 1500, so YMMV.

[ponch]

Both Axles are listed as 79.6 ft lbs as well. The only thing that is 94 ft lbs is the pinion gear nut.

Originally Posted by caddmannq

Hmmm...
I've been using 94 ft-lb for the swingarm and 80 ft-lb for the axle, as I recall, but my bike is a 1500, so YMMV.