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Old 02-24-2011, 06:57 AM   #16
flavor   flavor is offline
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Clutch Spring, again?


Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac
The hydralics only work the push rod In and let it out. In theory the push rod should retrack like disk brake pads do, just the slightest touch if any, or a gap even around 0.0005"

The slave cly gets filled with contamination mostly rubber cup particals, and is effected by long term engine heat cycles. Also temp changes create water in the system, that was allowed in any time the cover was off, which counts the time in the factory.

The slave has nothing to do with the clutch slipping on a roll on.... The slave can only mess up in grabbing a hand full of clutch is the fluid isn't all a solid fluid and contains air, or not enough fluid to work.

All the slave does is push a piston to move the push rod, and let it go. The push rod in turn pushs the spring and or lets it go.
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Old 02-25-2011, 05:04 PM   #17
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Clutch Spring, again?

Thanks Mac.

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Old 02-25-2011, 07:57 PM   #18
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Clutch Spring, again?

Pat, Rugged as usual .... I'm used to it. Not sure I'ld trade it either.
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:09 PM   #19
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Clutch Spring, again?

I hear ya, stay strong brother.
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Old 02-26-2011, 11:47 PM   #20
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Clutch Spring, again?

Forgive me. Patrick, I'm curious about the reason for two clutches to slip like this on you. Is it possible it's because of the way you may be using the clutch? What I mean is do you 'ride' the clutch at stop lights or hold the bike on a hill with the clutch?
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:54 PM   #21
macmac   macmac is offline
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Clutch Spring, again?

My bet is the 2nd spring is under cut, more from city like traffic. I met the guy he rides fine......
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:06 PM   #22
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Clutch Spring, again?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaho (High Plains Drifter)
Forgive me. Patrick, I'm curious about the reason for two clutches to slip like this on you. Is it possible it's because of the way you may be using the clutch? What I mean is do you 'ride' the clutch at stop lights or hold the bike on a hill with the clutch?
Idaho, Forgiven, its a reasonable question. I don't do either of the above, and don't think I am using the clutch in any way that should cause a problem.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:27 PM   #23
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Clutch Spring, again?

The problem is holding the clutch in and just plain using it... The first spring is under cut, and this 2ns spring probably is. IMO this system should have been 6 to 8 coil springs. But it isn't.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:30 PM   #24
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Clutch Spring, again?

I was reading on vroc and one of the more knowlegable mechanics had to put 3 springs in one summer. Had a run in with bad parts. what luck! i have had a similar poblem with rebuilt starters on my car's but these were new springs!
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:37 PM   #25
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Clutch Spring, again?

ouch
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:25 AM   #26
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Clutch Spring, again?

Sounds like plates IF everything was reinstalled correctly the first time. I'm sure they were though, no disrespect to anyone's talent! I used the Mean Streak spring about 1 1/2 years ago and the problem has returned, roll on slipping. I do have a Barnett spring waiting, and I'll be utilizing a Gorilla clutch assembly as well.
 
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:07 PM   #27
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clutch spring

can anyone give me the name of the web site to buy a Barnett mt-25 spring,you can pm me thanks guys.
 
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:09 PM   #28
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Rotella T5?? Did you mean Rotella T6?
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:24 AM   #29
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I've been using the T5 in mine for the past 20,000+ miles. Seems to work fine. Although it's advertised as "energy saving" there are no friction modifiers according to the doughnut on the back label (exact same info as T6), and the clutch works fine. It's a bit cheaper than the T6 and easier to find. Since I change my oil every 4,000 miles, I don't feel as though I need a full synthetic.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:33 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael barrows View Post
can anyone give me the name of the web site to buy a Barnett mt-25 spring,you can pm me thanks guys.

PM sent
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