motorcycle jack - Page 2

Peg · 07-14-2013, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macmac

... Support the local to this site guys, if you like this site.

I had to make a decision based on the cost of shipping to NZ... and ultimately had one zipped together by a friend who owed me a favor. It just wasn't going to make sense to spend more on shipping than it would for the purchase, though I'm ever grateful to Bud for the idea and the design.

macmac · 07-14-2013, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peg

I had to make a decision based on the cost of shipping to NZ... and ultimately had one zipped together by a friend who owed me a favor. It just wasn't going to make sense to spend more on shipping than it would for the purchase, though I'm ever grateful to Bud for the idea and the design.

Well yeah there is that....

rickyboy · 07-14-2013, 11:55 PM

And me,.. love it.
But Bud !!! what are these "machined steel blocks" you speak of... did I miss something?

".....My adapters attach to the frame via machined steel blocks. Very secure."

fammdw · 07-15-2013, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Idaho

I sell them to members for $45 plus $15 shipping. They come with pins, instructions and a safety ribbon. My adapters attach to the frame via machined steel blocks. Very secure.

Oh, and my website is down. I need to work on getting it back.

I know you make these for the 1600's. do you make one the will work with the 1700 now? The Voyager specifically?

**Idaho** · 07-15-2013, 12:51 AM

Don't need one for the 1700's. Rats.

Ricky, the tabs on the adapter that are drilled are actually machined from solid steel stock and then welded to the adapter frame. Joe Norris, aka Chuckster, machines those for me. Making them out of a solid bar seemed like the strongest way to make them.

Vulcan Bill · 07-17-2013, 02:21 PM

I made one out of 5/8" uni-strut, not pretty but it works.
Suggestion...if you tie wrap it to the frame so you can slide the jack under it be sure to remember to cut the tie wraps and remove it before heading down the road. If you don't the first speed bump you come to wll remove it for you.
Don't ask me how I know this.......

07-14-2013, 11:55 PM	#18
rickyboy Top Contributor Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: 108 Mile Ranch B.C. Canada Posts: 5,472	And me,.. love it. But Bud !!! what are these "machined steel blocks" you speak of... did I miss something? ".....My adapters attach to the frame via machined steel blocks. Very secure." __________________ Nomad'a What ! "rickyboy" Richard Cole Canada West Region 108 Mile Ranch, British Columbia Canada Vulcan Bagger Assoc. #00722 Black 2006 Nomad https://cdn2.iconfinder.com/data/ico...Book_32x32.png
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07-15-2013, 12:51 AM	#20
Idaho Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Pocatello, Idaho Posts: 5,241	Don't need one for the 1700's. Rats. Ricky, the tabs on the adapter that are drilled are actually machined from solid steel stock and then welded to the adapter frame. Joe Norris, aka Chuckster, machines those for me. Making them out of a solid bar seemed like the strongest way to make them. __________________ Idaho (aka Curmudgeon) Blue Knights Idaho III VBA #110 VROC #24864 IBA #49753 2007 Nomad 86,000 miles Bud Smalley Pocatello, Idaho Idaho Jack Adapter Login or Register to Remove Ads
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07-17-2013, 02:21 PM	#21
Vulcan Bill Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Mesa Az Posts: 1,400	I made one out of 5/8" uni-strut, not pretty but it works. Suggestion...if you tie wrap it to the frame so you can slide the jack under it be sure to remember to cut the tie wraps and remove it before heading down the road. If you don't the first speed bump you come to wll remove it for you. Don't ask me how I know this....... __________________ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- '05 1600CL. Originator 18" Harley wheel mod, Dobeck TFI, True Duals, Mutazu hardbags, Flanders handlebars n' a bunch more. *Sometimes I miss the good ol' days but most times I'm just glad I survived them*
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