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12-27-2016, 07:20 AM | #31 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Psychiatric Ward FL
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Take the head cover off and see if there is any play in the cam followers.
It won't appear to be much and shouldn't show any wear. You really should consider changing the bronze filters while you're in there. MT
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12-29-2016, 04:00 PM | #32 |
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Location: Mount Holly, North Carolina
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I think I found my problem and it's connection rod bearing... Here is the video so you can see how it loose
I thought noise was coming from the top head but maybe its just lack of experience using mechanical stethoscope and too much noises in the engine. Will continue digging down |
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12-29-2016, 04:10 PM | #33 |
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Jesus.I am amazed that did'nt break apart alltogether.I wonder how come it got so bad,lack of oil to the bearings must be favourite.That or a circlip came off the gudgeon pin.I would want to know that problem was resolved before putting it back together again.
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12-29-2016, 07:11 PM | #34 |
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Location: Montreal QC
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Big end or wrist pin end? hard to see in the video on my phone. If it is the big end hope the crank is not damaged.
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12-29-2016, 07:28 PM | #35 |
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It looks,and sounds, like the piston is slapping around on the gudgeon/wrist pin.The small end bearing on the conrod must have broken up completely to have that much movement.If thats the case,there will be bits of it in the oil,that might have done some other damage. Like i said,i am amazed it did'nt break apart,and wreck the engine.
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12-29-2016, 07:31 PM | #36 |
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Location: Mount Holly, North Carolina
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It's a big end, where rod is connected to the crankshaft. Hopefully I have complete disassembled old second engine so if something damaged could use some parts from the old one :) otherwise I would have already bought a new engine on ebay
Yes, there were some metal things in the oil
Last edited by Lafer; 12-29-2016 at 07:37 PM.
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12-29-2016, 07:41 PM | #37 | |
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Quote:
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12-29-2016, 08:37 PM | #38 |
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Location: Montreal QC
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Several possible scenarios none of which could ever be pinpointed as the smoking gun. Long over due oil changes and oil run low by a previous owner, defective bearing with too much play that slowly beat it's self to death, a piece of metal from a gear or similar lodged in the bearing and damaged it. Take your pick.
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12-29-2016, 09:06 PM | #39 |
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Mount Holly, North Carolina
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Rear rod also not good but better then the front one.
I wish I knew what previous owner do with the bike, but unfortunately I have absolutely zero information about it.
Last edited by Lafer; 12-29-2016 at 09:09 PM.
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12-30-2016, 08:46 AM | #40 |
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Yep, I'd go backwith new Rods, Pistons, all new lower end bearings, and check to see if the crank needs grinding....
Also new HLAs while your at it....
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
Last edited by DragonLady58; 12-30-2016 at 08:50 AM.
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12-30-2016, 09:19 AM | #41 |
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Can you buy new crank/connecting rod bearings for a Nomad that are oversized ?
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12-30-2016, 09:32 AM | #42 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Psychiatric Ward FL
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How is the rotating assembly from the old engine?
If it's good, I'd swap the crank and rods in with +1 pistons, unless the cylinders are exceptionally good. MT
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12-30-2016, 09:42 AM | #43 | |
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Quote:
They are shell bearings,so provided the crank has not suffered,fitting new ones should be ok.I reckon i would want to have the crank measured,and balanced though.It could be built up & re-ground if its suspect,but as Lafer has another crank,fitting that with,or without, new shells might be the way to go.
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12-30-2016, 01:10 PM | #44 | |
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Quote:
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12-30-2016, 02:00 PM | #45 |
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