Rear Cyclinder Oil Leak - Page 3

blowndodge · 10-04-2011, 07:50 PM

Dave could never hope to achieve 2 1/4"...

**Jared** · 10-04-2011, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macmac

Now that's interesting....... 2 and 1/4 inches in huh!

Got oil?

Not a drop. Engine is clean as can be.

**Jared** · 10-04-2011, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blowndodge

Dave could never hope to achieve 2 1/4"...

I was measuring the diameter.

jonsamson · 10-04-2011, 09:53 PM

Well guys thanks a lot for your help. Flashlight in the hole light shines in the vent hole in the spark plug chamber. I had taken out the spark plug tube.

Again I am so lucky, the O ring (there are two) at the smaller end of the spark tube is disintegrated. Just a little piece left. Well maybe that is why there is oil in the spark plug chamber. I have ordered 2 sets to replace them.

I put an O ring I had in an assortment of stuff here, not the right size but will do for now. I got a wood dowel, a drill and a file. Then I spun the drill shaved off the dowel to make a plug. Before I permanently plug I wanted to see what would happen.

I plugged it, started it up and idle we are good. Well not good enough for me. I put the throttle lock on and rev a little more, no leak, no change in engine. Well still not good enough, I open that thing up, let it roar, and then guess what .....

Nope I didn't blow the motor, but it didn't leak. I saw some oil soaking in the dowel though, to be expected.

I have a tap kit, I have been lucky in the past for tapping. I took a M4 bolt to see for reference, too small, slips in. M6 is the next size I believe and it is too big for the opening but smaller than the overall hole. Good, I have a M6 tap kit, a bolt, an O ring, Red locktight, and some JB weld.

Umm, what about just using JB weld rather than taping? (I don't have a bullet that small though, but that would be a good story to tell if I did). Would JB Weld hold up long term? It would be easier to stuff the hole with JB weld.

All this is coming together. A few weeks ago I heard a sound, tapping like the chain on the spark plug tube. I have the extenders, but I thought they weren’t extending. I took it back out and reset it and it works just fine, put it back in. I thought maybe I had reinstalled them wrong the first time. I have taken that tensioner out 4 times now, I can do it in my sleep. Perhaps it was a plug coming out in that hole the chain was rubbing on. I checked and I have metal in the bottom of oil drain from the other day. (oily hands now to, but I had to know). This is a Vulcan right, not that other brand that is expected to break down, then it wouldn’t be so upsetting.

Thoughts about if JB Weld stuffed in the hole would work?

**ringadingh** · 10-04-2011, 10:44 PM

I think JB Weld for work. Id still find something to plug the hole and use the JB Weld to glue it in.

**Jared** · 10-05-2011, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ringadingh

I think JB Weld for work. Id still find something to plug the hole and use the JB Weld to glue it in.

Yep. Why not just take a small bolt (just slightly too big to fit in the hole) and grind off the threads, making it fit with some JP weld?

macmac · 10-05-2011, 09:47 AM

I don't think JB Weld will work because the area is too hot. It might work for a little while, but over all it's too hot. JB Weld sort of melts in heat. Before you go to the bother, set up some JB on anything else. Allow it to cure over 24 hours.

Once you believe it's cured, go after it with a hair drier. You will find it melts to a sticky goo again.

Look up the tap drill for the m6 bolt. Be aware there is m5 bolts too.

The dowel trick is pretty good, and had you coated it with a skudge of Ivory Soap on the facing the oil end it might have been a better temp fix. That soap reples oils, and the dowel just had open pores to draw oil in capilary action, about the same thing as a sipping straw.

Did the plug tube show any signs of being eatten away by the chain?

Pretty soon it would be a good idea to dump the oil and by the screen method, clean the screen and change the filter twice at around 1,000 miles.

On the 2nd filter change, just change it out for new and top off the oil. You really don't want lots of metal in the oil a real long time. The screen will grab larger particals and the filter(s) will grab the rest. Anything else would be to heavy to flow in the oil stream.

cactusjack · 10-05-2011, 10:26 AM

There is an M5 bolt, I have purchased them at ACE Hardware. Maybe that will fit?

blowndodge · 10-05-2011, 02:19 PM

Always Always take the suggestion of how to stop an oil leak from a Harley owner!! Their experience with this issue is legendary!!!

cactusjack · 10-05-2011, 03:17 PM

My Harley doesn't leak oil.

rickyboy · 10-05-2011, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blowndodge

Always Always take the suggestion of how to stop an oil leak from a Harley owner!! Their experience with this issue is legendary!!!

I know Scott can handle your comments but,.....
You're just plain cruel Brad!!!

blowndodge · 10-05-2011, 06:33 PM

I was a breech birth baby????

**voyager** · 10-05-2011, 07:08 PM

An M5 or M6 might just be close enough for a 1/8 pipe plug. The pipe plug would be preferred over a cap screw. You just need an NPT tap to do the job. I agree with Mac, with a mirror and light, us owners will probably see a ball bearing blocking the passage or what looks like a frost plug in the bore. Yours has fallen out, this happens on occasions in some motors. If not the pipe plug, a frost plug slightly larger with lock tite on it would also do the job, though it would be hard to tap into place where its located.

Keep us informed

macmac · 10-06-2011, 10:23 AM

With out looking that 1/8th pipe tap is probably around 5/16ths. I didn't measure the hole ID, but it appears to be well under 1/4" aka 6mm to me.

While I would prefer a pipe threat too, I don't think it is the fix this time. Drilling there is a big problem for lack of room.

I might use drills as a gauge sticking in the chuck ends to discover what size ID that hole is though. Take that reading and compare it to taps. All taps.
I had to cut the tap square drive half off to get just the tap near the hole.

There are dozens of thread sealers on the market that will seal machine threads from oil. Some harden some do not. I sort of prefer Permatex non-hardening sealer for oil related machine thread bolts.

If it were me, once I found the closest tap size, which could be SAE or metric to the hole size, and got the tap started 'JUST' enough to know it was straight, then I would grease that tap, not as a lube which will happen anyway, but as a chips collector, to gather as much chips as possible.

A tap drill size here is critical IMO, then to compare that size to both SAE and metric taps to get the closest one.

Recently I had a reason to plug off a hole that was hard to reach with a drill motor, and so did the same thing, and came up with 3/4" x 10 threads as the closest tap.

blowndodge · 10-06-2011, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cactusjack

My Harley doesn't leak oil.

YET!

10-04-2011, 07:50 PM	#31
blowndodge Sr. Contributor Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Washington City, Utah Posts: 16,474	Dave could never hope to achieve 2 1/4"... __________________ I love my Victory Cross Country Tour 106. Smells like Victory! Ultra's are Limited There are two types of Harley riders. Those that trailer them and those that push them. The most Interesting Man in the World "Find the things in life you don't do well and don't do those things" Member # 0005 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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10-04-2011, 10:44 PM	#35
ringadingh Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada Posts: 35,387	I think JB Weld for work. Id still find something to plug the hole and use the JB Weld to glue it in. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

10-05-2011, 09:47 AM	#37
macmac Sr. Contributor Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tamworth New Hampster 06 1600 Posts: 12,484	I don't think JB Weld will work because the area is too hot. It might work for a little while, but over all it's too hot. JB Weld sort of melts in heat. Before you go to the bother, set up some JB on anything else. Allow it to cure over 24 hours. Once you believe it's cured, go after it with a hair drier. You will find it melts to a sticky goo again. Look up the tap drill for the m6 bolt. Be aware there is m5 bolts too. The dowel trick is pretty good, and had you coated it with a skudge of Ivory Soap on the facing the oil end it might have been a better temp fix. That soap reples oils, and the dowel just had open pores to draw oil in capilary action, about the same thing as a sipping straw. Did the plug tube show any signs of being eatten away by the chain? Pretty soon it would be a good idea to dump the oil and by the screen method, clean the screen and change the filter twice at around 1,000 miles. On the 2nd filter change, just change it out for new and top off the oil. You really don't want lots of metal in the oil a real long time. The screen will grab larger particals and the filter(s) will grab the rest. Anything else would be to heavy to flow in the oil stream. __________________ 06 1600 Nomad Just call me Mac molon labe come and get it
	0

10-05-2011, 10:26 AM	#38
cactusjack Mega-Contributor Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Where it doesn't snow...ever! Posts: 21,926	There is an M5 bolt, I have purchased them at ACE Hardware. Maybe that will fit? __________________ Scott "Cactusjack" Hanks VBA #00105 H.O.G. #4250060 2011 H-D Ultra Limited 103ci :: 2011 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited w/Stage 1 :: Rallies: Mesquite '08\|Custer '09\|Cortez '10\|Crescent City '11\|Kanab '12\|Antlers '12\|Estes Park '13\|Antlers '13\|Orofino '14\|The Dalles '17
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10-05-2011, 02:19 PM	#39
blowndodge Sr. Contributor Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Washington City, Utah Posts: 16,474	Always Always take the suggestion of how to stop an oil leak from a Harley owner!! Their experience with this issue is legendary!!! __________________ I love my Victory Cross Country Tour 106. Smells like Victory! Ultra's are Limited There are two types of Harley riders. Those that trailer them and those that push them. The most Interesting Man in the World "Find the things in life you don't do well and don't do those things" Member # 0005
	0

10-04-2011, 09:53 PM	#34
jonsamson Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 209	Well guys thanks a lot for your help. Flashlight in the hole light shines in the vent hole in the spark plug chamber. I had taken out the spark plug tube. Again I am so lucky, the O ring (there are two) at the smaller end of the spark tube is disintegrated. Just a little piece left. Well maybe that is why there is oil in the spark plug chamber. I have ordered 2 sets to replace them. I put an O ring I had in an assortment of stuff here, not the right size but will do for now. I got a wood dowel, a drill and a file. Then I spun the drill shaved off the dowel to make a plug. Before I permanently plug I wanted to see what would happen. I plugged it, started it up and idle we are good. Well not good enough for me. I put the throttle lock on and rev a little more, no leak, no change in engine. Well still not good enough, I open that thing up, let it roar, and then guess what ..... Nope I didn't blow the motor, but it didn't leak. I saw some oil soaking in the dowel though, to be expected. I have a tap kit, I have been lucky in the past for tapping. I took a M4 bolt to see for reference, too small, slips in. M6 is the next size I believe and it is too big for the opening but smaller than the overall hole. Good, I have a M6 tap kit, a bolt, an O ring, Red locktight, and some JB weld. Umm, what about just using JB weld rather than taping? (I don't have a bullet that small though, but that would be a good story to tell if I did). Would JB Weld hold up long term? It would be easier to stuff the hole with JB weld. All this is coming together. A few weeks ago I heard a sound, tapping like the chain on the spark plug tube. I have the extenders, but I thought they weren’t extending. I took it back out and reset it and it works just fine, put it back in. I thought maybe I had reinstalled them wrong the first time. I have taken that tensioner out 4 times now, I can do it in my sleep. Perhaps it was a plug coming out in that hole the chain was rubbing on. I checked and I have metal in the bottom of oil drain from the other day. (oily hands now to, but I had to know). This is a Vulcan right, not that other brand that is expected to break down, then it wouldn’t be so upsetting. Thoughts about if JB Weld stuffed in the hole would work?
	0

10-05-2011, 03:17 PM	#40
cactusjack Mega-Contributor Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Where it doesn't snow...ever! Posts: 21,926	My Harley doesn't leak oil. __________________ Scott "Cactusjack" Hanks VBA #00105 H.O.G. #4250060 2011 H-D Ultra Limited 103ci :: 2011 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited w/Stage 1 :: Rallies: Mesquite '08\|Custer '09\|Cortez '10\|Crescent City '11\|Kanab '12\|Antlers '12\|Estes Park '13\|Antlers '13\|Orofino '14\|The Dalles '17
	0

10-05-2011, 06:33 PM	#42
blowndodge Sr. Contributor Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Washington City, Utah Posts: 16,474	I was a breech birth baby???? __________________ I love my Victory Cross Country Tour 106. Smells like Victory! Ultra's are Limited There are two types of Harley riders. Those that trailer them and those that push them. The most Interesting Man in the World "Find the things in life you don't do well and don't do those things" Member # 0005
	0

10-05-2011, 07:08 PM	#43
voyager Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Stony Plain, Alberta Posts: 694	An M5 or M6 might just be close enough for a 1/8 pipe plug. The pipe plug would be preferred over a cap screw. You just need an NPT tap to do the job. I agree with Mac, with a mirror and light, us owners will probably see a ball bearing blocking the passage or what looks like a frost plug in the bore. Yours has fallen out, this happens on occasions in some motors. If not the pipe plug, a frost plug slightly larger with lock tite on it would also do the job, though it would be hard to tap into place where its located. Keep us informed __________________ Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.........Mark Twain.
	0

10-06-2011, 10:23 AM	#44
macmac Sr. Contributor Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tamworth New Hampster 06 1600 Posts: 12,484	With out looking that 1/8th pipe tap is probably around 5/16ths. I didn't measure the hole ID, but it appears to be well under 1/4" aka 6mm to me. While I would prefer a pipe threat too, I don't think it is the fix this time. Drilling there is a big problem for lack of room. I might use drills as a gauge sticking in the chuck ends to discover what size ID that hole is though. Take that reading and compare it to taps. All taps. I had to cut the tap square drive half off to get just the tap near the hole. There are dozens of thread sealers on the market that will seal machine threads from oil. Some harden some do not. I sort of prefer Permatex non-hardening sealer for oil related machine thread bolts. If it were me, once I found the closest tap size, which could be SAE or metric to the hole size, and got the tap started 'JUST' enough to know it was straight, then I would grease that tap, not as a lube which will happen anyway, but as a chips collector, to gather as much chips as possible. A tap drill size here is critical IMO, then to compare that size to both SAE and metric taps to get the closest one. Recently I had a reason to plug off a hole that was hard to reach with a drill motor, and so did the same thing, and came up with 3/4" x 10 threads as the closest tap. __________________ 06 1600 Nomad Just call me Mac molon labe come and get it
	0