ECU Flash from Ivan's Performance available

[warrbucks222]

So where is Ivan, how do I get in touch, and how much to flash my 1700 Nomad?

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[redjay]

http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/2010z1000.htm

$350 U.S

[randog]

Originally Posted by redjay

It depends on what you are looking for. Chuckster does a kit that leaves the bike looking stock and the bike gets all the air it needs. The other kits are probably more expensive but look different. Whatever kit you choose be prepared for extra intake noise. Some people have removed their kits for that reason. Go round the block with the cover over the intake removed and you get a feel for how the bike is going to sound after the install.

I think I would go for keeping the stock look as long as the engine can get good air flow. I have looked at a lot of photos with the alley Cat and Roaring Toys that look nice but you see exposed bits between the cylinders because they don't cover up like the stock one does. I will probable go with Chuckster's or maybe the Thunder Mfg one that uses the stock cover.

Good idea on a test run without the cover.

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[Peg]

Originally Posted by redjay

http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/vn1700.htm

$350 U.S

Here, let me fix that link for you ...It's scattered through this thread though, and post #1 by Ivan would always be an excellent place for warrbucks to start his search for it?

http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/vn1700.htm

[hank43]

115087.75 in reply to 115087.1
I had Ivan reflash my 2009 Voyager/Champion trike, seems to be running a little better, But one thing I did notice? This bike shifts like a bike now, NO MORE KLUNK WHEN I SHIFT FROM NEUTRAL TO 1ST, NO MORE KLUNK WHEN I UP SHIFT TO ANY GEAR! That alone was worth the $$, everything else is just icing on the cake! Anyone else notice this?
hank43

[smokier]

Originally Posted by redjay

It depends on what you are looking for. Chuckster does a kit that leaves the bike looking stock and the bike gets all the air it needs. The other kits are probably more expensive but look different. Whatever kit you choose be prepared for extra intake noise. Some people have removed their kits for that reason. Go round the block with the cover over the intake removed and you get a feel for how the bike is going to sound after the install.

Greetings,
Roger that. Mine was removed due to extra noise...


Ride safe,
Smokier

[Peg]

Originally Posted by hank43

115087.75 in reply to 115087.1
I had Ivan reflash my 2009 Voyager/Champion trike, seems to be running a little better, But one thing I did notice? This bike shifts like a bike now, NO MORE KLUNK WHEN I SHIFT FROM NEUTRAL TO 1ST, NO MORE KLUNK WHEN I UP SHIFT TO ANY GEAR! That alone was worth the $$, everything else is just icing on the cake! Anyone else notice this?
hank43

I thought the clunk was more due to the square cut gears, but if somehow an electronic modification has improved that for you, then

If you warm the engine with your clutch in, you'll find the drop into first gear so quiet that you'll have to check the gear position indicator to be certain it's there. That clunk from 1 to 2 is a whole other thing, and is always going to make itself heard around the neighborhood. That's down to the positive neutral finder, and with experience - is one of the signs to let you know it's time to change your oil (although it's always going to be attention grabbing).

[hank43]

Originally Posted by Peg

I thought the clunk was more due to the square cut gears, but if somehow an electronic modification has improved that for you, then

If you warm the engine with your clutch in, you'll find the drop into first gear so quiet that you'll have to check the gear position indicator to be certain it's there. That clunk from 1 to 2 is a whole other thing, and is always going to make itself heard around the neighborhood. That's down to the positive neutral finder, and with experience - is one of the signs to let you know it's time to change your oil (although it's always going to be attention grabbing).

Disagree,
The klunk has been there since I got the bike in 2010, from neutral into 1st always klunked loudly, and the bike would jerk slightly. 1 to 2 or 2-3 or 3-4 or 4-5 or 5-6 ALWAYS made that noise, now it doesn't.
Talked to Ivan about it, he has heard the same. Over the years, Changing oil, trying different weights of oil. has never had any affect on the noise.

hank43

[MET-RICK]

Originally Posted by hank43

Disagree,
The klunk has been there since I got the bike in 2010, from neutral into 1st always klunked loudly, and the bike would jerk slightly. 1 to 2 or 2-3 or 3-4 or 4-5 or 5-6 ALWAYS made that noise, now it doesn't.
Talked to Ivan about it, he has heard the same. Over the years, Changing oil, trying different weights of oil. has never had any affect on the noise.

hank43

*** This may help explain why...The following is a quote from another thread, answered by Ivan....."The reason that it shifts better is that you can unload the gears with "neutral throttle" ..... and because they aren't "loaded" (decel or accel), they will move with little resistance.

Without disabling fuel cut, it would not be possible to unload the gears.


Ivan" . *** Hope this helps. Cheers

[Peg]

Like I said... If you're happy that the flash has somehow made it easier for you to operate your transmission, then , or even

Into 1, 2 to 3 and on up, I've never had issues with mine, even pre-flash... I can see it must be a little more difficult to nail the shifts just so with the extra weight of the drive-train on a trike though.

But do me a favor... just try warming the bike up with your clutch lever pulled in.

[robjob]

Originally Posted by Peg

Like I said... If you're happy that the flash has somehow made it easier for you to operate your transmission, then , or even

Into 1, 2 to 3 and on up, I've never had issues with mine, even pre-flash... I can see it must be a little more difficult to nail the shifts just so with the extra weight of the drive-train on a trike though.

But do me a favor... just try warming the bike up with your clutch lever pulled in.

How long of a warmup are you suggesting? I thought anything more than 15 seconds or so on a fuel injected engine is redundant. Just curious.

[Peg]

Originally Posted by robjob

How long of a warmup are you suggesting? I thought anything more than 15 seconds or so on a fuel injected engine is redundant. Just curious.

However long you want... If you think 15 seconds is long enough then you can do that, and the shift will probably be quiet . I wait for the idle to drop a little (which takes slightly longer after the flash), just so it's a little easier to get up my long tricky & rocky driveway.

[hank43]

Originally Posted by MET-RICK

*** This may help explain why...The following is a quote from another thread, answered by Ivan....."The reason that it shifts better is that you can unload the gears with "neutral throttle" ..... and because they aren't "loaded" (decel or accel), they will move with little resistance.

Without disabling fuel cut, it would not be possible to unload the gears.


Ivan" . *** Hope this helps. Cheers

Thanks for the explanation MET-RICK, I couldn't find the article you list, I just knew it shifted better.

hank43

[hlknvlcn60]

On cold starts I am patient with my 1700 keeping in mind the motor is a semi-dry sump mill that takes a bit longer for oil to reach every orifice inside for proper lube. And with the Ivan tune, the motor runs pretty rich until it reaches about around 130 degrees or better so mine gets a good 5 minutes of warming initially before leaving the house. For you guys who leave the "stock look" for your intake, one thing is for sure....you will not get nearly the air flow you would get with a BAK nor the power, especially after the Ivan tune. It is well worth the things you need to do to get a BAK on your bike and to cover the left side hole left when you remove the doggy bowl, go to Thunder MFG.'s website and do like I did and order an engine cover plate they make that goes in between the cylinders on the left side. It will also cover your now installed crankcase breather filter as well from sight. With the Ivan tune, BAK and 2-1 FP pipe, my bike makes a ton of good thrust especially during 5th and 6th gear roll ons for passing when the bike really needs to breathe and get going. My motor also gets much better mileage whilst cruising now, smoother, and runs cooler too.

[smokey]

I decided to get it done last week, wish I had decided earlier when our dollar was a little better. First impressions

I have an alley kat air filter plus cobra tri ovals, I also had a cobra auto tuner, with that set up I had lugging in OD and popping on decel.

With the mod, and based on Ivan's recommendation, the cobra auto tuner was removed, and the bike now runs on premium vice regular (regular is a little higher octane up here in Canada which is why I was using it).

Popping on decel is gone, at least I cannot hear it any more.

Acceleration is improved in each gear, even from low speed roll ons.

Gas mileage is the same as before the mod, it was crappy then and it is crappy now, maybe after a tank or so of premium has been used it will improve.

The most noticeable difference apart from the popping not being there, is that the OD gear is now like being in fifth as far as being able to accelerate goes, before in OD it was slow to respond when passing and I often downshifted, now I do not have to do that.

It also seem to be quieter somewhat, maybe I am just getting more hearing loss.

Would I recommend the flash? yes I would, the cost of the Cobra auto tuner alone nullifies the cost of the upgrade. Why Kawasaki doesn't hire Ivan I will never know, kudos to him for coming up with this and taking the time, effort, and yes, money, to develop this program, it works, what more can I say.