Starts, dies.

[Puddlejumper]

I will see if I can figure out the codes for the problem once I find the directions.

[Idaho]

Damn, I feel for you and sure hope that you can find this. I'm sure that when you do it will be one of those "Duh" moments. Thanks for keeping this thread going. Good luck.

[gillisfire]

I had an issue with my bike that made my FI light come on. I have a thread here so I won't go into details, but it was a broken wire on the TPS. I tracked it down by reading the trouble code and then ohming out the wires. So if you need to read the code, it is rather simple. As always, Gadgets has directions.....

http://www.gadgetjq.com/fi_fuelsystem.htm

[trosco]

Roger, let us know if you get "some" codes. The link Gillis put up is the right one. They do "store" so you sort of have to sort thru them to pick the right ones to go after. And then you got to deal with all of us having "opinions" about what your trouble is.
But will mention something. You said pressure inside your tank forced fuel out when you disconnected the line from the tank.There isn't supposed to be pressure on that line unless the key is on. When you remove power the regulator releases the back pressure, then becomes a one way valve. It diverts the fuel thru a dump on the filter assembly into the tank and shuts off fuel flow completely out side of the tank. Its a safety thing else when you wreck but bike doesn't dump over far enough for the lean angle safety switch to kill all power to bike fuel pump runs, pressure stays up and pumps fuel creating fire risk and liability for manufacturers of FI vehicles. It's why you have a $600 pump/regulator/filter assembly instead of a $30 pump and $5 in line filter in todays cars and bikes. If when you pulled your gas line off fuel ran out of the spout that the fuel line hooked to (not just a drip but steady dribble for couple seconds or more) that indicates that you have some debris in the regulator or the regulator's diaphragm is damaged. More than likely is just gunk that can be reverse flushed out but something you should correct while you have bike apart. My number is in early post so if you want to call and talk about what you find on the codes do so. And you are probably a hour or so from me so getting together on this thing would be possible.

[Puddlejumper]

OK, found ECU today however, the instructions I downloaded from Gadgets page for retrieving the codes does not make sense. The instructions state for the 1600 ground post 37 which already has a yellow wire attached. According the wiring diagram for the 1600 # 37 is a bk/w wire which goes to the fuel pump. There are three yellow wires in the harness cap, they are location 1; yellow with green stripe, location 3; yellow with red dots, location 24; yellow with black stripe. So which wire do I use to pull the codes? Thanks

[gillisfire]

I am not sure about the connections on the 1600's ECU but on the 1500's, the last wiring harness has no wires going to it. It just has a cap over the last location. Are you sure you are looking at the correct harness plug on the ECU? According to the wiring diagram for the 1600, there should be a solid yellow wire going from the ECU to the Self Diagnostic Terminal. Here is a link to the wiring diagram

http://www.gadgetjq.com/VN1600A1_wiring-pg2.jpg

http://www.gadgetjq.com/nomad_wiring_diagram.htm

The 1500's ECU is located on the left side of the battery sitting on it's side. When lifted up and out, there are three harness plugs. Top, middle, bottom. The location of pin 37 was on the harness plug on the bottom. But again, I am not sure about the 1600's set up. Hope this helps some.

Edit to add: I am pretty sure once you are able to read the codes, it will tell you what the problem is. Maybe the pin location with the yellow wire is not exactly #37. But looking at the wiring diagram, I think you are looking at the wires backwards.

[Tynker]

Just for giggles, look at the plug/wires, from the cold air sensor. It is in the rear of the air cleaner backing plate. I had one wire break, and the red light would stay on, and bike ran like crap.

[Puddlejumper]

OK all, got a code finally. Vehicle down sensor code. Never would have thought it would be that. Any way will start checking that out tomorrow. Code sheet says open or shorted, so will be checking that in the morning, seeing as how it is suppose to rain. Making progress. Thanks Ross for taking my call and all the helpful information. Also thanks to all for all the advice and ideas. BTW, the wire for the diagnostic check is a yellow wire with a female plug in the same harness with a four conductor plug that is not attached to anything, laying in the battery compartment. Thought this might help if anyone ever needs to run test for codes.

[Puddlejumper]

Thanks Gill, the 1600 ECU has only one harness plug. Had a copy of the electrical for fuel and ignition, and found the wire I needed to check for codes.

[gillisfire]

Glad to be of some help. I have gotten a lot of help from some great members here, so I try and help when I can. At least now you know where to start looking. Hopefully you will be back on two wheels again.

[trosco]

Hey Roger, in a strange way, a intermittent Vehicle Down Sensor (a kill switch basically) makes sense with what you described and we talked about. I hope it turns out to be just that as a much less expensive fix vs fuel pump or ECU!

[Puddlejumper]

Yeah Ross. Just finished checking the vehicle down sensor. All voltages within acceptable limits per service manual. Checked the DFI relay, it also checked within the limits per manual. Could the vehicle down sensor be bad intermittently? I know it is a cheaper repair, a little over $100, but I hate to spend that if it is not the problem. BTW, I checked all the wires going to the sensor for continuity, and that also was good.

[kmaysob]

Originally Posted by Puddlejumper

Yeah Ross. Just finished checking the vehicle down sensor. All voltages within acceptable limits per service manual. Checked the DFI relay, it also checked within the limits per manual. Could the vehicle down sensor be bad intermittently? I know it is a cheaper repair, a little over $100, but I hate to spend that if it is not the problem. BTW, I checked all the wires going to the sensor for continuity, and that also was good.

It sounds to me like its bad. I'm assuming the switch either shorts two wires together or one to ground. If that's the case, make a jumper and bypass the switch for testing purposes

[trosco]

Roger, if you were to remove connector on Vehicle Down Sensor, spray a little contact cleaner, then hook back up, and do the same to plug on ECU then take a ride tomorrow or Thurs (gonna be upper 60's in Charlotte). You might find you don't have the cutting out problem anymore. I think it would have to be a connection problem more than the sensor it self going bad. When the sensor is "activated" turning the bike's ignition switch off and back on is the only thing that resets it. That means to me that it is not going to go to activated then back to normal randomly as you ride? But if it momentarily has some resistance in it's ground circuit, that could interrupt power to fuel pump and or DFI then return to normal, maybe??? You might also try taping on sensor and wiggling wires at sensor and ECU while running to see if can cause a cut out???

[Puddlejumper]

Thanks guys. Ross, I also don't know why it would be bad, so I will try cleaning the contacts, if that does not work I will figure a bypass to see if that will resolve the issue. If so I will order a new sensor.