|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
03-29-2017, 08:56 PM | #61 | |
Advanced Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 542
|
Eliminate ALL possible sources and disconnect amp completely and "bench test", run a independent/temp power and ground wire to amp and even use a separate to make easier and see if it STILL draws.
Quote:
Login or Register to Remove Ads |
|
|
03-30-2017, 10:48 PM | #62 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 7
|
Alright, I did the same speaker/amplifier upgrade posted here. All worked well, but I have an intermittent parasitic draw now that kills my bike battery after one week of sitting. Heres what I did tonight:
Completely removed/disconnected the amplifier and hooked it up to a new source. Draws 34 mA (first picture) Got pissed, disassembled the circuit board from the case in hopes of finding the board shorting to the case. Found nothing, no components look clearly smoked. (2nd picture) Light handling/twisting of the board made the draw intermittent anywhere from 0mA to 50mA. I can't quite pinpoint the problem area of the board. (3rd and 4th pictures) This thing really has me pissed. I'm gonna leave it alone for tonight, maybe I'll test some individual components on the board tomorrow. Amplifier came from ebay months ago, too long to see who the seller even was. |
|
03-31-2017, 11:55 AM | #63 |
Advanced Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 542
|
I would cut my losses and move onto another amp. Best of luck
|
|
04-06-2017, 07:56 AM | #64 | |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 7
|
Quote:
Apologies for hi-jacking this thread getting my bike fixed, but directly after an amp install and anytime the battery suspiciously dies, I would recommend checking for parasitic draw. Set a multimeter to the mA setting, pull the 25A fuse, and put the multimeter leads in the fuse holder. You want to see 0mA or damn close. |
|
|