front fork oil change 1600

[dogdoc]

How many SPECIAL tools are needed to perform this job? i know somebody just did this but can't remember who. manual says like 2-3 tools needed you have to order.??

Thanks

Dennis

[strobe]

zoom45 just did it. In this thread he lists the things he used.

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/phpBB3/v...t=9284&start=0

[zoom45]

Mines a 2000 1500. I thought the 1600 was a cartridge but the how to is listed on Gadgits page I think.
Zoom45

[redjay]

Hi, In my opinion the easiest way to do a fork oil change on a 1600 is to remove the fork legs and turn them upside down and drain the oil that way. I know some people have syphoned the oil out while the forks are on the bike but for me I like to know the oil is completely drained before installing new oil. When I had Racetech springs and valve modulators installed the installer told me the correct way to tell if you have the correct amount of oil installed is to measure to the oil from the top of the fork tube and not to dump in a certain amount of oil and call it okay. Unfortunately I do not know what that distance is. Maybe the manual tells you ?

[macmac]

I don't know myself yet since I have the stock brickstone on ft.. That will change this year asap, but first the snow needs to go, then I need the dough for the rubber..

If the fork seals are toast there is no choice but to split the upper from the lower and get em on..

My old yammi had a drain. Can you imagine that? Yammi dropped 2 cents and installed drains, and with a baby bottle I can fill up with new oil easy, so long as I don't need seals.

[dogdoc]

yes the manual does say but it also talks alot about totally taking off the forks(removing front tire, etc, etc,) just to get to the fork oil. then others say they did it in 1 hr. well we are talking about 2 different things here. maybe somebody with first hand knowledge(Cliff) can answer how the 1600 is done, do you need special tools, is it that involved a job. etc.

thanks

Dennis

[macmac]

Doc you done the gooseneck grease yet? I am willing to bet hard coin thar's no dammned grease in the head bearings too! Why would there be unless you got BD's bike? When I get the tire i will be all over those bearings and look at them after they are cleaned.

My ideas are based on tearing down the rear end when it needs a tire and then the ft end when it needs a tire. There are no known problems with either my rear end of the ft end... I plan to keep it that way.

[strobe]

Not first hand experience, but this site he changed the springs to progressive springs, but did it by removing the top cap, just like in the 1500. If you can get to the spring, you can get to the oil and suck it out just like on the 1500.

http://nomad.eurekaboy.com/progressivesprings.htm

[reaper]

Originally Posted by macmac

no known problems with either my rear end of the ft end... I plan to keep it that way.

Glad to hear it, I hate it when I have rear end problems and hate it more when it's the front end

[ringadingh]

I did my fork oil last season, and didn't use any special tools. The 17mm allen key to undo the top plug was a 1/2 drive that fit on my ratchet, it required a good strong impact gun to get one of them plugs loose. Other than that it was a straightforward procedure. It is well documented on Gadgets sight. By the way I have the cartridge style forks on my 02. The only thing I would recomend is that maybe using a heavier weight oil, they come with 10 weight from the factory. I always found my forks to be a little mushy feeling, especially when hitting the front brakes. I replaced the oil with 15 weight, and wish Id have used 20 weight as I would like it a little firmer yet.

[zoom45]

Doc,
If you need pictures showing how I did the 1500 forks I'll be glad to send them. I siphoned the oil out and it measured exactly what the book said it would have (356ml). It was easy after I got past "the scared to touch because I wasn't sure thing".
Zoom

[macmac]

Originally Posted by Ringadingh

I did my fork oil last season, and didn't use any special tools. The 17mm allen key to undo the top plug was a 1/2 drive that fit on my ratchet, it required a good strong impact gun to get one of them plugs loose. Other than that it was a straightforward procedure. It is well documented on Gadgets sight. By the way I have the cartridge style forks on my 02. The only thing I would recomend is that maybe using a heavier weight oil, they come with 10 weight from the factory. I always found my forks to be a little mushy feeling, especially when hitting the front brakes. I replaced the oil with 15 weight, and wish Id have used 20 weight as I would like it a little firmer yet.

That is nice to know.. 20w huh... I hate the nose dive in a I mean right now stop myself..

I don't hardly ever use any brakes at all unless stopped at a red light, but when something like a dog comes out I do.

[Yellow Jacket]

Originally Posted by redjay

Hi, In my opinion the easiest way to do a fork oil change on a 1600 is to remove the fork legs and turn them upside down and drain the oil that way. I know some people have syphoned the oil out while the forks are on the bike but for me I like to know the oil is completely drained before installing new oil. When I had Racetech springs and valve modulators installed the installer told me the correct way to tell if you have the correct amount of oil installed is to measure to the oil from the top of the fork tube and not to dump in a certain amount of oil and call it okay. Unfortunately I do not know what that distance is. Maybe the manual tells you ?

Here's what the manual says for the 1600 (page 13-8):

1. Remove the front fork.

2. Hold the outer tube vertically in a vise.

3. Remove:
3a. Top Plug (with O-ring)
3b. Collar
3c. Washer
3d. Spring.

4. Pour out the fork oil with the fork upside down.

5. Hold the outer tube vertically in a vise.

6. Fill the front fork with the specified oil.

Fork Oil
Type: KHL34-G10 (Kayaba) or equivalent

Amount (per side)
When changing oil: approx. 440mL (14.8 US oz.)

After disassembly and completely dry: 513 mL (17.3 US oz.)

7. Wait for about five minutes so that any suspended air bubbles can surface.

8. Measure the oil level (with the fork vertical), using the fork oil level gauge. Special Tool - Fork Oil Level Gauge: 57001-1290

8a. Set the gauge stopper so that is lower side shows the oil level distance specified.
8b. Insert the guage tube into the inner tube and position the stopper across the top of the inner tube.
8c. Pull the handle slowly to draw out the excess oil until no more oil comes up the tube.
* If no oil is drawn out from the beginning, there is not enough oil in the fork. Pour in some more oil, then draw out the excess.

Front Fork Oil Level (fully compressed, without fork spring and in a vertical position:

5.31 +/- 0.08 inches.


If you have a way to measure the oil level accurately from the top of the inner tube then you can probably get by without using the special tool. The distance needs to be between 5.39-5.23 inches from the top of the inner tube to the oil.

[macmac]

I bet the Nomad spring is fun too... For that one I just might need to borrow some reallly big guy to mash it in.. getting it out won't be any problem

[ringadingh]

If I remember right the spring in the forks isn't that hard to put back in. In fact Iwas thinking about adding an extra spacer to stiffen them up a bit. But I didn't want the springs to coilbind on a good bump in the road.