Installed it myself!!!

[markclark57]

OK, I'm REALLY not a wrench head at all.

Just got Joe Norris' (Chuckster_131) light bar and risers for my '06 Nomad.

The instructions looked straight forward so I tried it myself instead of my usual trip to the shop. Not only did it work right the first time, but it only took about 30 minutes for a "mechanically challenged" sort to finish. :)

[coacha]

Good deal. It is always nice when a project comes together for us mechanically challenged :)

[cactusjack]

Good for you! Gives one a sense of accomplishment, doesn't it?

[markclark57]

Originally Posted by cactusjack

Good for you! Gives one a sense of accomplishment, doesn't it?

and next year CJ gets to help me with cam chain tensioners? =D ?

[macmac]

Tell us how you wired it. This is so you don't fry the fuse box and ignition switch, somewhere down the road.

[markclark57]

Pulled the fuse from the link provided in Joe's kit, hooked the supply wire into the hot side of the battery (this is the only place I strayed from the directions due to my security system "freaks" if you drop power), followed the rest of Joe's instructions to the letter. Read some sections 4 times, but followed the instructions.

End of testimonial, board and battery are protected by a fuse and a relay. Either side light is brighter than the OEM. IMHO every Vulcan that can use the lights should do so.

Oh, and they look awesome too. =D

Did I mention that they are $$$ affordable?

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by markclark57

and next year CJ gets to help me with cam chain tensioners? =D ?

::)

[markclark57]

Originally Posted by cactusjack

::)

Looking forward to the "meet n greet" even if it doesn't include wrench lessons. =D

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Congratulations. It always gives you a feeling of pride when you accomplish it yourself. The only thing I won't tackle is changing tires. They have professionals for that.

[macmac]

I have never seen the info sheet. If these lamps ground on his brackets add a ground wire from the forks to the bike frame. If the lamps have a ground wire each and that is grounded with wires to the frame then atleast you won't turn the gooseneck bearings into little black rocks. Bearings don't make a very ground path.

[markclark57]

Originally Posted by macmac

I have never seen the info sheet. If these lamps ground on his brackets add a ground wire from the forks to the bike frame. If the lamps have a ground wire each and that is grounded with wires to the frame then at least you won't turn the gooseneck bearings into little black rocks. Bearings don't make a very ground path.

Thanks, I'll run ground wires as you recommended.

One of the things I have to get used to being "Mostly Retired" is to do more stuff myself. More time / less money. . . I might even try my own oil change next time around. :)

[macmac]

Yeah you can save big bucks on oil changes. After my crash in SD the dealer did one with out asking and chaged 80 bucks for the oil filter and labor. I was smokin, since that oil had just under 1,000 miles on it. and the labor was nuts.

A tip is change the gear oil each oil change or atleast every other, and use about 6 oz instead of book spec.

I stand the bike on a 2x4 flat under the stand to fill the gear box. You must use a flash light to see well, as there is a flange/land inside the filler that holds oil. That could cause a incorrect reading for full. DO NOT ever ever try to add more oil that that in the gear case or it will spring leaks big time.

I also get help from my wife. If she sits on the pillon seat leaning into the back rest and with the saddle bag off I press down on the saddle bag frame I can raise the drian plug or lower the V&H baggers muffler enoung to get the drain bolt out and or in. But that's real dicey. A change of weight transfer would tip the drain bolt, and tear threads. I am very carefull doing that stunt.

Other wise you need to move the muffler somehow.

There is just no way any 6 oz of gear lube there is going to last any 24,000 like the book says.

Every time I have changed my gear oil there has been a metalic sheen in the oil.

On engine draining: The side screen plug is where. It takes a 17 mm short wrench. The plug is a brittle alloy made to fail easy, and the plug is ported. It has very thin port walls very easy to break. When you tighten it stop tightening when it stops and only use delicate pressure, or you will break it off in the engine case.

You really don't want to break it off either.

Everythng matters in order with the screen , o rings and everything so LOOK hard when you remove it the first time.

I only pull that screen once a year. The first time it had gasket mung and bit of who knows what. never again has it been crappy. With the engine oil filler cap very loose, which is done with some class if you have a real silver dollar ot no class and use a 1/2 inch FENDER washer, air will enter and speed draining the oil with the plug still in the bike, thru one port maybe 2 ports, and this is fast easy and clean work if you move right. Often times I get no oil on my hands at all.

[Kawhead]

Originally Posted by markclark57

Thanks, I'll run ground wires as you recommended.

One of the things I have to get used to being "Mostly Retired" is to do more stuff myself. More time / less money. . . I might even try my own oil change next time around. :)

Don't get to cocky now. ;) One summit at a time.

Leave the oil changes to the experts!

Kidding aside, you deserve a congratulation, because that wasn't really an easy job, and you did it anyway. Most of the time you try something, your going to get it right. Especially if you read the instructions. I find it's better to take on a new task and make a mistake or maybe embarrass yourself, somebody is alway willing to dig you out.

[markclark57]

Originally Posted by macmac

Yeah you can save big bucks on oil changes. After my crash in SD the dealer did one with out asking and chaged 80 bucks for the oil filter and labor. I was smokin, since that oil had just under 1,000 miles on it. and the labor was nuts.

A tip is change the gear oil each oil change or atleast every other, and use about 6 oz instead of book spec.

I stand the bike on a 2x4 flat under the stand to fill the gear box. You must use a flash light to see well, as there is a flange/land inside the filler that holds oil. That could cause a incorrect reading for full. DO NOT ever ever try to add more oil that that in the gear case or it will spring leaks big time.

I also get help from my wife. If she sits on the pillon seat leaning into the back rest and with the saddle bag off I press down on the saddle bag frame I can raise the drian plug or lower the V&H baggers muffler enoung to get the drain bolt out and or in. But that's real dicey. A change of weight transfer would tip the drain bolt, and tear threads. I am very carefull doing that stunt.

Other wise you need to move the muffler somehow.

There is just no way any 6 oz of gear lube there is going to last any 24,000 like the book says.

Every time I have changed my gear oil there has been a metalic sheen in the oil.

On engine draining: The side screen plug is where. It takes a 17 mm short wrench. The plug is a brittle alloy made to fail easy, and the plug is ported. It has very thin port walls very easy to break. When you tighten it stop tightening when it stops and only use delicate pressure, or you will break it off in the engine case.

You really don't want to break it off either.

Everythng matters in order with the screen , o rings and everything so LOOK hard when you remove it the first time.

I only pull that screen once a year. The first time it had gasket mung and bit of who knows what. never again has it been crappy. With the engine oil filler cap very loose, which is done with some class if you have a real silver dollar ot no class and use a 1/2 inch FENDER washer, air will enter and speed draining the oil with the plug still in the bike, thru one port maybe 2 ports, and this is fast easy and clean work if you move right. Often times I get no oil on my hands at all.

Dang, your scaring me. . . I still want to try it myself, but you make it sound so spooky.

[markclark57]

Originally Posted by Kawhead

Don't get to cocky now. ;) One summit at a time.

Leave the oil changes to the experts!

Kidding aside, you deserve a congratulation, because that wasn't really an easy job, and you did it anyway. Most of the time you try something, your going to get it right. Especially if you read the instructions. I find it's better to take on a new task and make a mistake or maybe embarrass yourself, somebody is alway willing to dig you out.

My "hole" motto is that if you find yourself in a hole. . . STOP DIGGING!!!

I also installed Chuckster's risers for both Patricia's and my rides. I started with the Nomad and had to re-adjust the bars 4 times. So before I started on Patricia's I made an index mark with a "Sharpie" pen and nailed it first time.