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09-28-2008, 11:43 AM | #1 |
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I have a question but it's not related to the Nomad. The reason I'm posting here is cause there's a lot wiser people than me on this board when it comes to vehicles.
I have 2006 Monte Carlo with 21000 miles on it. It does have anti-lock brakes and it's still under warranty so I will be taking it into the dealer tomorrow. Both Friday and yesterday, while driving in traffic, it felt like the brakes would not release after taking my foot off the peddle. Both times when I took my foot of the peddle the car immediately slowed down. When I accelerated it felt like someone was riding the brakes. Friday I was about a block from where I was going so I parked and went about my business. When I came out and started the car, everything worked ok. Yesterday it happened on the freeway in stop and go traffic. By the time I was able to pull to the side of the freeway, the whole car was shaking. I got out and walked around the car. I could smell a strange smell. I got back in the car and started it up and everything was/seemed ok. Both times the brake peddle was rock hard and very sensitive with no play in it at all. I know intermittent problems are a pain to diagnose, but I was wondering if any one has an idea what could cause this? And/or if anyone has ever had this problem before? Thanks in advance! Dave P.S. I really believe this will be that last American made car I'll ever buy. EVERY one I've bought before has never made it out of warranty without something going wrong. Not so with the Toyota I've bought. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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09-28-2008, 11:52 AM | #2 |
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My first guess would be the sensor on one of the calipers is going bad, or gone bad. I can't remember without looking it up....and don't think it does...but does that car have electronic stability control?
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Todd Frazier VBA #0003 VBA National Leader-USA Operations/Garage Moderator - RETIRED 2006 Black Nomad since she was born Greensboro, NC |
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09-28-2008, 11:56 AM | #3 |
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I had the exact same thing happen to my Grand Cherokee. The calipers were sticking. Ended up replacing both front calipers, all has been good since.
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Cliff "VulcanE" Evans 2005 Blue & Silver 1600 Nomad VBA # 320 VROC # 20381 |
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09-28-2008, 12:04 PM | #4 | |
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09-28-2008, 01:50 PM | #5 |
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This is not uncommon with cars equiped with anti-lock brakes. Happed with my truck and scared the crap out of me. I was told (not verified) that it can happen when the break pads start to wear out. Your car probably has a sensor that warns of pads needing replacement and that this sensor confuses the anti lock sensor causing it to not let go after taking your foot of the brakes. Detecting that your still applying them.
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09-28-2008, 02:04 PM | #6 |
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Traction control is similar and reads similar to stability without the "sideways" or tipping sensors........It thinks one wheel is spinning faster than the other and applies braking to the one it thinks is spinning to allow the power transfer to the wheel with, what it thinks, has traction. Should be an easy repair and hopefully not too costly.
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Todd Frazier VBA #0003 VBA National Leader-USA Operations/Garage Moderator - RETIRED 2006 Black Nomad since she was born Greensboro, NC |
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09-28-2008, 08:28 PM | #7 | |
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ABS has nothing to do with this problem. If you wanted you could take a short drive of say no more than 10 miles and stop, get out and seek the wheel that is bothering.. You would smell it and feel for heat at a distance with out touching the wheel, and worse the rotor. The heat ios more than enough to be burned baddly. What ABS does is sence when a whell is locked up and will release that wheel for a split second.. ABS will not lock up a wheel. If ABS fails the berake works the way it would if there was no ABS.. One Caliper is stuck and will not release. There are many things that can cause this, but typically it is dirt/contamination in the fluid. You should stop driving this vehical. Not doing so will cost more in parts, and may result in a real crash with no brakes!
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06 1600 Nomad Just call me Mac molon labe come and get it |
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09-28-2008, 09:42 PM | #8 | |
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Having said that, I used to be strictly Chevy and Buick person. Now I like Ford's and Mercury's pretty well. I have a 2003 Mustang with 130,000 miles on it that I've only changed the brakes, tires, and one alternator on. I have another 2007 Mercury Milan with 35,000 miles on it, that is fixing ot go out of warranty, and I really like that car as well. I do all of my own maintenance and repairs. I just don't buy the American vs. Foriegn, Ford vs. Chevy vs. Toyota crap anymore. They can all make a bad car on Monday or Friday. |
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09-28-2008, 10:00 PM | #9 |
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traction control will slow down and try to brake a wheel that is spinning or perceived to be spinning...Traction and Stability controls use the braking system but are more than just antilock brakes..........Hope it works out easy for ya.
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Todd Frazier VBA #0003 VBA National Leader-USA Operations/Garage Moderator - RETIRED 2006 Black Nomad since she was born Greensboro, NC |
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09-29-2008, 09:24 AM | #10 |
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Todd he says in post 1, that he was in traffic.. Traction controll would be just looking and not finding much of any reason to come on.. My bet is a sticking, or stuck calpier, which is easy to find. My worry is he will continue to use the car, and ruin brake pads, the rotor, and perhaps crash. The brake fluid is already ruined by contaminataion and heat. You can only boil bf so many times before it breaks down, not that it still won't work that way.
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09-29-2008, 10:09 AM | #11 |
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True.....I am thinking the TC control module is getting a bad reading from a faulty sensor and trying to brake one wheel because it thinks its spinning, which in turn will cause the drag and the heating of the rotor.....of course, since we can't see it and test it out....just edumacated guess unless we can lay hands on it. Certainly could be as simple as a sticking caliper too...the intermitent thing is variable that has me wondering....anyway....
official diagnosis - "It's broke"
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Todd Frazier VBA #0003 VBA National Leader-USA Operations/Garage Moderator - RETIRED 2006 Black Nomad since she was born Greensboro, NC |
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09-29-2008, 07:05 PM | #12 |
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Well I went to take it to the dealer where I bought it from and I find out they've closed up shop a month ago. They had been there for as long as I can remember. I've always had them service it. Last service, 2000 miles ago at the end of June, I had them flush the coolant and brake fluid. I've alway had this done with all my vehicles every two years. I don't know, maybe I'm wasting my money. So I take it to another dealer down the street. A mechanic come out, pops the brake cap and the fluid's black. He said it's contaminated and it doesn't look like brake fluid. This dealer is now checking with GM to see if they will even warranty it since the dealer I bought it from and has done all the servicing is now no longer in business. In the mean time their "mechanic", I'll use that term loosely, will inspect the system and see what need to be fixed and/or replaced. He's talking seals, lines and who knows what else.
This may cost me a small fortune if GM doesn't honor the warranty. Which I'm betting they won't. I did give this dealer a copy of all the receipts from the work the other dealer has done. Why is it I fell like I've been rode hard and put away wet? |
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09-29-2008, 07:14 PM | #13 | ||
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You're probably right. It sure feels good to vent, though. |
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09-30-2008, 11:06 AM | #14 |
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Todd/Dave It might be a malfunction in TC, but the end result is still a seized caliper.
Dave it is wise to flush and change these fluids each 2 years. Many people don't. Coolant wears out, and when it does will eat water pump seals, and can eat bearings. It carries every sort of metal it comes in contact with and galvanic action does the rest.. Brake Fluid is hydroscopic., and there is no seal made that will stop all moisture. Some moisture is manufactured with in the system by condensation. Water is the heavier of the 2 fluids, and will given time navigate to the lowest points, where it raises hell. I am not sure how this came to be on your car, but the fact remains it has occured. I see no reason this should not be under warrenty since it is documented, and the warrenty is from the factory. If anyone argues the points, I would want to see the factory rep for the area. The facts are the work was done and if it wasn't it was paid for anyway. It isn't your fault if work was done incorrectly. You can get better service under warrenty by bringing in the factory rep.
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09-30-2008, 07:02 PM | #15 |
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Got a call today, GM agreed to pay for it under warranty. That's a relief. The dealer told me today, they may have to replace the whole system, depending how bad it is.
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