Key Switch?

[moloprintz]

Saturday morning (8:30 AM) was cool (low 40's) and moist (fog).
I always remove my key after switching on.
I stopped to refuel.
I had my 12V gloves on so I'm not as dexterous as normal.
I my have wiggled the key while removing it.
I noticed the clock indicated 1:00.
I reset the clock.
Fired up and joined my friends for coffee before the ride.
Gloves on again and I my have wiggled the key again.
Bike starts and its 1:00 again.
Reset the clock.
Switch off because we're waiting for a new guy.
Gloves on again and I my have wiggled the key again.
Now I have neutral light and nothing else.
No odometer and no indicator lights.
Switch off and switch on and everything is OK.
Everything functions normal the rest of the day and Sunday.

This clock rest thing has happened before.
The key requires a certain touch to remove once switched on.
Is my switch on the verge of failure?
Or am I looking in the wrong direction?

[cactusjack]

The clock resetting to 1:00 indicates that it is losing voltage. I don't think the key switch has anything to do with it. Check your battery terminals, make sure they are clean and tight. How old is the battery?

Edit: I've never had an ignition switch apart, but I suppose there could be some burned contacts in it. By any chance do you have any accessories that draw a lot of current (air horn, driving lights) installed on the bike?

[tonik]

Classic symptoms of a bad battery connection, or a battery going bad.

[MAS Tequila]

Or the starter switch is dirty or going bad. They can cause a loss of current under certain conditions. A starter switch usually goes bad before the ignition switch.

MT

[ringadingh]

On my bike the ignition switch contacts were sticking and not making contact. It would crank but not fire, and the fuel pump would not buzz for a couple seconds . After taking the switch apart and cleaning it, it now works fine again.
Since you say it requires a special touch with the key, I suspect it may be your switch.

[moloprintz]

When the battery 'goes bad' does it give warning like slow cranking?
Or does it just die?

I'll continue to attack this from both directions.
I'll see if I can find a cheap switch (Ebay) and refurbish and prep it.
I'd like to make it to the winter and then get a new battery but I can't have it leave me along side the road.

[tonik]

"When the battery 'goes bad' does it give warning like slow cranking?"

Our bikes require a slightly higher voltage for some of the electronics. The first part to 'go bad' is that higher voltage and that causes the symptoms you are seeing. You hit the starter and that drops the voltage enough to cause the clock to reset.

The next symptom you might see as it gets a little worse is a reset of the clock and ECU as you drive down the road. That is not fun.

Slower cranking won't be until later, as it gets worse.

It certainly could be a key switch as the other poster said, but so far every post I have seen (and my own experience on my bike) is the battery is going. Or you have a dirty/lose battery connection. Those are the two most likely causes and where you should devote your time for now.

[MAS Tequila]

If you're going to replace the battery why wait. That is just taking a chance of getting stranded. The first time mine did that (it was six years old) I put a new one in and haven't had a problem since.

MT

[moloprintz]

Where's the best price on a battery?

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by moloprintz

Where's the best price on a battery?

I just paid $90 for one from Batteries Plus. Their online price was $80.99, but I bought it from one of their local stores here.

[ringadingh]

When my battery started to fail it would crank but not produce enough to make it fire, a boost would allow it to fire instantly.
Since installing the new battery Ive never had a starting problem.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by Ringadingh

When my battery started to fail it would crank but not produce enough to make it fire, a boost would allow it to fire instantly.
Since installing the new battery Ive never had a starting problem.

You know it happened so gradually, I didn't give it a second thought, but yeah mine was like that. Sometimes it would have to turn over several times before it would fire. I don't even think it makes one full revolution now and it's running.

[VulcanE]

Have you ever lubed your switch? My key got to where you had to have a "certain touch" to get it in or out. The tech at the local dealer got some silicone spray (with the long red, thin tube) and stuck the tube through the key hole and gave it a couple of quick shots, then sprayed the key. Since then, it's been as easy to get the key in and out as it was when it was new.
One other thing to mention, my heated gloves Gerbing's) had a warning to not have them turned on unless the bike was running, and to turn them off before shutting the bike off.
The symptoms you describe do sound like a dirty/loose connection on the battery terminals, or the battery going down hill.

[moloprintz]

I'm trying to remember to unplug the gloves before I switch off.
So far not much luck.
Checked the battery terminals and they show no signs of corrosion and seem secure.
I'll investigate the switch further and keep a closer eye on 'how' she starts.

[mobandy78]

Go to www.batterymart.com and purchase battery model # YTX20CH-BS. It's a maintenance Free battery. I got a discount (10%, I think) for a first time customer and paid $75 + $12 shipping. Got to my door in about 3 days. Great thing about it... this battery has 20 amps and is the same size as the stock 18.