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Old 05-04-2015, 05:17 PM   #1
knobber   knobber is offline
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Throttle response on 1600 w/Caddman

I have a 2008 1600 w/Caddman, Dobeck TFI set to 3, 5:30, 1, 9 with V&H Duals. First off, I sometimes get this "cough" back through the throttle plate and I also notice that the throttle response itself is slow to react. Does the TFI need more adjustment? Anyone else have similar issues??

The "backfire" or cough through the throttle plate has happened at take off in 1st gear and also downshifting from 50mph and and going unto 2nd gear and throttling the gas again so it's not necessarily at the lower rpm's.



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Old 05-04-2015, 06:07 PM   #2
RVTraveling   RVTraveling is offline
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Mine did the same thing. Make sure you set pot 1 with the engine at full operating temperature. I was just a little lean initially and when I reset it to peak rpm and left it on the rich side of the adjustment- no more pop. Helps with the takeoff too.
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Old 05-05-2015, 12:11 AM   #3
macmac   macmac is offline
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Did you just set the numbers or did you set pot 4 to 9 and work up pot 1 with pots 2 and 3 off ?
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:16 AM   #4
knobber   knobber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac View Post
Did you just set the numbers or did you set pot 4 to 9 and work up pot 1 with pots 2 and 3 off ?
I worked pot 1 up with 2 & 3 off.
 
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Old 05-05-2015, 11:47 AM   #5
macmac   macmac is offline
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hmmmmm Is the throttle body clean ? The cough back is one thing, but the slow to get power is another. Did you have to lower the RPM when setting pot 1 ? Are the red and green lights flickering ?
Is this Plug N Play ? or solder on ?
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Old 05-05-2015, 12:35 PM   #6
knobber   knobber is offline
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hmmmmm Is the throttle body clean ? The cough back is one thing, but the slow to get power is another. Did you have to lower the RPM when setting pot 1 ? Are the red and green lights flickering ?
Is this Plug N Play ? or solder on ?

Yes throttle body clean. Did not lower RPM. I waited till it was fullt warmed up, pulled the high idle cable out and adjusted for best rpm after that. How much should the red/green lights flicker and when? This is a solder unit.

If at idle and I crack the throttle there is a slight delay in response. This may be normal but thought I'd put it out there to see.
 
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Old 05-05-2015, 12:41 PM   #7
macmac   macmac is offline
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The red light should be on or flickering a lot and the green one should at idle to mid range rpm. or nearly all the time you watch it with the engine running and working pot 1 up. I usually have to lower the black knob back out to get to the best refining work as the RPM goes up too high. That makes it so if I try to the ride the bike like that there is almost no engine braking effect during decell, and it feels like a run away engine.

If the red light on Pot 4 isn't on the unit isn't working. DUD RPM change ? RPM did go up in a very easy to tell way if you were just hearing and easier yet if you have a tach hooked up ..........right ?
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:40 PM   #8
dgconstable   dgconstable is offline
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OR just get rid of it and go back to factory and avoid this silliness? hehe
 
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Old 05-05-2015, 02:13 PM   #9
macmac   macmac is offline
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OR just get rid of it and go back to factory and avoid this silliness? hehe
This is silly talkin right here. All 1500's and 1600's are overly lean from the factory due to the EPA, which even counts in your country. All these bike run too hot and strain to just idle. Shall I go on ?
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