Final Gear Oil Change

[bfancett]

So, I finally did the 600 mile service over this past weekend, and I have to say with the help and advice everyone gave me, the owners manual, and the dealer prep manual things went very smoothly. I engine oil and filter change was a breeze, the other flid checks were simple, and everything else on the checklist was pretty self explainitory.

Reading the service manual and the owners manaul it sayd to "support the motorcycle perpendicular to the ground." And that the oil level should come to the bottome of the filler opening. That is exactly where the level is after I changed the oil. I used semi-synthetic for the engine oil, so I also used a synthetic blend for the gear oil.

My concern is now, that I have heard something about needing to fill the gear oil while the bike is on the stand, otherwise you may break the seal and oil can run into the shaft itself. Did I do it wrong? And what are the suggestions if I did? I have not run the bike since I changed the gear oil.

Thanks,

Brian

[waterman]

Brian,

You did it by the specs. However, like you said, some people have had issues. What you can do is put the bike on its side stand and maybe add a 2x4 under the kickstand ( a little more horizontal but still not straight up), open the fill plug and then let the excess drain. This will be messy. The other option is to wait until the next oil change and redo it.

[macmac]

Do what Waterman said!!!!!!! Place a 2x4 under the side stand flat side down and pull the top filler plug and let it drain!!!!!!!! The book is wrong..

Change this gear oil at each or every other oil change. If you don't change it, check it every other oil change!

There is enough trouble with out creating it.... If you don't I would bet money you will drown the seals and be leaking gear oil at the top end of the drive shaft tube.. Right out of the rubber dust boot that connects the shaft tube to the engine case.

I know that seems hard to belive but that is where it shows up.

AND write down everything you did, list the items you used, and include any part numbers, and code numbers if any.

A code number usually contains a date of manufactor for filters and tires and items that wear.

Write down as best you can the amounts of oil in parts of qt's. Document every detail NOW, because in 12 months you won't know.

This is a must do to retain warrenty. You need to do it far better than a check mark on the book like so-called techs do.

[Cajunrider]

Brian,
Mine is in the shop now to have the pinion seal, coupling, and o-ring replaced. A slow leak started while I was in Custer. It began leaking from the rubber boot at the engine end of the drive shaft. The dealer had changed my gear oil on the first service at 600 miles and I had changed it again at 7,500 miles and just before I left for Custer. The dealer fills it with the bike straight up and both of my changes were on the side stand on one 2x4. My seal failed and I can't tell you why it failed. The dealer told me that it is uncommon for them to replace the pinion seal on a Nomad. Mine is covered by warranty but they have had my bike since last Tuesday afternoon and I won't get it back until Friday. They are closed on Mondays and the parts were not shelf items. 3 days to get the parts and it took them 3 days before they tore it down. I'm happy that I worked last week and I'm working nights this week. Otherwise, I would be pissed that they have had my bike this long. I will tell you that I will continue to fill mine on the sidestand when I change my gear oil. I thought about draining mine down to sidestand level when I get it back but I think I will leave the level where it is for the 7,000 mile interval to see if it will start leaking again. You do what you feel is best. I can tell you that if you have any factory or extended warranty, the parts and labor are covered.

[bfancett]

Great posts from everyone, thank you. Since I have not run the bike yet, I will remove the saddle bag and prop the kick stand like you said and drain it from the fill plug. I hope there isn't any damage already, though I did have my helper tilt the bike a little to the left when i was filling so that I could see where the level was, a little did come out when she did that, so maybe I have it at a good level.

What do you guys use to get the filler caps off? I used a wide chisel and turned it with a pair of vise grips, it worked, but I am afraid of scratches in the future.

Also before I run the bike, the gear oil I used is Valvoline SAE 80W - 90, that is correct isn't it? Guess I can't trust the manuals on everything anymore.

Thanks again.

Brian

[redjay]

I think a lot of guys use a large washer (approx 1/8 th thick) and a pair of vice grips. Oil sounds about right, SAE 80-90. Personally I fill on the sidestand.

[coacha]

I have a big screw driver that I put a towel over the blade end, fits snug and then turn.

[bfancett]

Copy that. First thing I do when I get home today is I am going to drain a little from the gear case, and then pull the fill plug with the bike on the stand, this way it doesn't spill all over the place if it is too full. Then I will fill back up to the correct level with the bike on the stand.

Also, this may be bad, but I have never used a torch wrench. Is the $98.00 investment worth it if I am going to continue doing maintenance myself? Most of them are so damn big, it doesn't seem like they would fit in the places I need them to anyways.

Brian

[coacha]

Mac would be best suited to answer the question about torque wrench. I don't have one but my brother brought one of his when we did my maintenance earlier this month. Trouble is, he didn't leave it here, lol. Guess I'll have to go to HF or Sears to get one.

[Cajunrider]

Brian,
Put a towel underneath the gearcase and remove the large filler plug. Let it drain from there while on the sidestand until it quits. Then your level is correct. No need to remove the bottom drain plug.
Mitch

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by Brian ("Itinerant Man")

Copy that. First thing I do when I get home today is I am going to drain a little from the gear case, and then pull the fill plug with the bike on the stand, this way it doesn't spill all over the place if it is too full. Then I will fill back up to the correct level with the bike on the stand.

Also, this may be bad, but I have never used a torch wrench. Is the $98.00 investment worth it if I am going to continue doing maintenance myself? Most of them are so damn big, it doesn't seem like they would fit in the places I need them to anyways.

Brian

I don't think you need to spend $98 on a torque wrench. Is there a Harbor Freight tools store near you? If so, watch their ads and you can find them on sale for $15-$20. I'm not saying they are better than or even as good as the $98 model, but I have two of them (3/8" and 1/2") and for general use, they are fine. If I was still a professional mechanic, I'd have better ones, but these will get the job done.

Yes, in my opinion, a torque wrench is a must-have item.

[bfancett]

No Harbour Freight's around here in Michigan. I am stuck with Home Depot, Lowes, and the neighborhood ACE Hardware, and of cource there is always Sears. Home Depot or Lowes you are going to spend at least $76.00, but Sears has a craftsman for $25.00 that goes from 0-75 ft/lbs. It has the metal needle and guage on the bottom. I don't like those because the plastic cover eventually cracks/breaks, then your needle is exposed and you might as well throw it away. I guess $75 is worth spending if you really need one.

[coacha]

How bout Northern Tool? Tractor Supply?

[macmac]

Torque Wrenchs for you can be had at harbor frieght of it pleases you because they are on line too.

You can use the lesser pointer type well enough, but you need it over 80 foot pounds so no 75 pounder will do. The axels are 80 foot pounds tight each. Other things maybe well over 80 ft pnds..

You will need another one in inch pounds for smaller fittings like axel locking bolts. it might look expensive, but one single hour of most any shop rates is 80 bucks an hour these days.

Buy the best tool you can afford once, use it, and save yer money.

The tool for the filler caps is not a wood chisel! It is NOT!

What works well is a 1/2 inch FENDER WASHER A FENDER WASHER, not a flat washer. Any auto parts store has these and buy 10 because you will loose some.

These are rugged and cheap. You can still insert a paper towel in the slot with them and do so!

No big screw drivers either!

Of you have broken the seals on these caps once which are too tight anyway, with a 1/2 inch FENDER WASHER, then if you happen to be a coin collector and happen to have a bad silver dollar and want a little class use one of those in already non- collector shape.

If any of you guys are hunters and have any bronze coin tokens from North American Hunter magazine use them if you like.

If anyone has one of those tokens to spare i could use one as mine was stolen on my 1500 Nad back then and I don't get any magazines these days.

No more screw drivers no more dammned wood chisels either!

Now I have to sit in a corner and do lots of swearing..... :'(

[coacha]

Sorry Mac, I won't use my big screw driver ever again...you can stop swearing now, lol. I'll go to Home Depot tomorrow and get me about 10 1/2" FENDER washers to keep around.

I will also start looking for that token for you as a peace offering. ;)