Stripped Oil Plug

[taranis]

Changed the oil yesterday using the standard oil drain plug. As the subj says, when I put the bolt and crush washer back in, it felt like the bolt was starting to strip.

Got the bike out today for a bath and sure enough, a small puddle of clean oil had formed under the bike overnight - maybe three tablespoon's full.

I know the drain plug is a 17mm, but I don't know the pitch. Gadget's site has a recommended fix using a 12mm, which I'm sure isn't right for the Nomads.

Anybody have some recommendations for a fix? Retrill and tap the hole for a new, larger plug? Or can I get a higher pitched, self-tapping boltt and crush washer and rethread it?

I have a group ride with friends tomorrow too - sure would hate to miss it.

[josh]

You can get a self tapping bolt and slllloooooowwwwwly thread it in while checking every turn or so to back it out and clean off any shavings, once you have it in LEAVE IT THERE and do all your oil changes via the oil screen hole, did this for 3 years on my 1500a and found not only did I not risk stripping out the drain plug but also it was cleaner to drain the oil into that way off the side stand

[taranis]

Do I need to get a larger pitch of thread on the new bolt?

[josh]

That I don't know, take the original to the auto parts store with you they will know

[macmac]

Check the engine thread side....... The bolts are uncommonly soft made to shear and not take case threads with them. I can't say if the case threads are trash, since I can't see.

Clean the drain pan super well, and filter the same oil you put back.

Take whats left of the drain bolt and see if you must use a tappered self threading replacement . Never again use it. Use the screen drain from now on.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Is it possible no damage was done to the oil pan? You could always pick up another drain bolt and give it a try before you do the rethreading. If you can get another drain bolt fairly easily it would be worth a shot.

[macmac]

Yes Gene it IS possible the case is ok, it may need some thread chasing, the the bolt plugs are made weaker than the case for this reason.

It would be best if a oem plug can be used, and if not then a self tapper, never again used.

There are 2 ways to install these self tappers... The first way is to start it in after making sure it isn't going to be too tall inside the case, and then just wind it in dead straight.

The 2nd way is to grease it hard, fill the hollow and the cutters gaps, and install it and then remove it, to clean out the trapped chips in the slots and the hollow, reducing loose chips.

A self tapping bolt is going to be STEEL, not alloy.

[zoom45]

Mine stripped about 10 oil changes ago so I drilled it out and installed a heli-coil with a new bolt. I don't remember the size it was. I put the bike on my lift. It was tight to get enough room to keep the drill straight but it worked out great. I drilled slow and coated the bit with heavy grease to catch the shavings. I have never taken that bolt out since. I always use the side drain on the driver side. It drains better and you can pull the strainer out to clean too.
Zoom45

[Cajunrider]

I've never backed mine out and don't plan to. It's so much easier to use the screen plug and not as messy. I almost screwed up once when the o-ring fell off the plug into the pan of oil. Didn't notice it until I wiped the plug clean and attempted to apply fresh oil on it with my fingertip before screwing it back on. When I poured the used oil into my storage container, there was the o-ring sitting on the slanted surface. I did the same thing once with the metal gasket on the final drive plug. They do fall off really easy if you aren't careful when removing the plugs.

[ndbigfish]

I no longer have the stock plug. Functionally it went away years ago. The stock plug removed the threads from the case and left me with a hole. Unfortunately the auto parts folks couldn't help me, but Gadget did:

http://www.gadgetjq.com/stripped_oil_plug_thread.htm

I followed the above instructions and the plug has remained in place, without leaking, for several years. I use the oil screen plug for oil changes now.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Taranis, did you solve your problem? I certainly hope you were able to just replace the drain bolt. If you had to rethread I hope it was a success. Before I finished and put that drain plug in I would run a small magnet around in the hole to pick up any metal threads. A little flexible magnet would do the trick.

Ndbigfish, thanks for posting the link for replacing the drain bolt. I am sure others will one day have this problem and it will be a big help.

[taranis]

Sorry about not getting back to this thread until now, but wanted everyone to know I did... uhhh.. fix the problem.

The auto parts store here could not help with a new or slightly oversized plug. I was looking for a 17mm x 1.50mm self-tapping plug, but no luck. I got back under there and took a good long look for where the leak was coming from and found that the crush washer had also split along one side - the bolt was spinning in the threads too, so I had a double-whammy.

When I pulled the bolt out, it came out with a piece of case thread, so I knew they were trashed. The bolt itself was fine.

In the end, I used some JBWeld epoxy around the bolt that set and cured in 1 hour. Came back out and still had the slightest oil residue, so I roughed up the first layer with a wire brush and put a second layer on that completely capped the bolt. Stuck a piece of packing paper under the bike and went to bed.

Came out the next morning and the packing paper was clean and there was no oil residue on the plug. So I tossed a couple quarts of oil in the saddlebags and my socket set, then headed off for a ride yesterday. 57 miles highway miles later, I pulled in for gas and took a look. No leaks! Went the rest of the day, a total of 350 miles, without a problem.

I can say with conviction that the drain bolt is ON THERE now. That JBWeld is solid stuff. And I can guarantee I won't be using that bolt anymore either.. heh.

The correct fix would've been to retap the threads, of course, then never use that bolt again, but I chickened out. Never did it before, and don't want to learn on my bike.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

[ghettocruiser]

I hate to be a stick in the mud, but I would ask that you do a more permanent fix. JB weld is some great stuff, but I would not trust it to hold the life blood of your engine.It was good enough for a temp. fix so you could enjoy the ride with friends, but a better fix is called for.

[taranis]

Can't argue that. I've used JBWeld on other motors before and it's held up well enough over the years. I have plent of other short local rides planned so I'm going to take the wait & see approach for now. I expect that if it does start leaking again, it will be a very slow drip and I'll catch it. Since the bolt is still in and relatively tight, that's the most it can do even if the entire application of epoxy falls off - a worst case scenario.

In time I may take th epoxy off and have the case retapped properly. We will see.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Glad you have it fixed. Just check it ever so often to make sure there are no leaks.