Coyote Kit rejetting

[brenpak]

I need your guidance once again guys, This is what ive done so far to my 99' Nomad. I marbled the reed valves, removed the air box, and removed the left side cover completely. I made my own backing plate so I can install a K&N filter e-3320 Which is only 6 1/4 " in diameter, filtering off the carb on the right. instead of the 8 1/2" that is said in the coyote kit instructions. It says I should start out with a 170 main jet and 3 to3 1/2 turns out on the pilot jet, now that is with a 8 1/2" filter does anyone have any advice or recommendations on what jet size I should start out with? with having a 6 1/4"filter or does it matter? or is it trial and error?
Hopefully someone tried this before and might be willing to share some info :)

[ringadingh]

The filter size won't really matter in setting the pilot jet. its just a reference point and you may have to turn it in or out a bit to find the right place. Every motor is different and has its own spot where it runs best.

[bobhamlin]

Originally Posted by Ringadingh

The filter size won't really matter in setting the pilot jet. its just a reference point and you may have to turn it in or out a bit to find the right place. Every motor is different and has its own spot where it runs best.

I agree.

I had two Classics on which I did the Coyote mod. The jet sounds like what I had (maybe 165). The 3.5 turns is more than I remember -- HOWEVER -- I'm sure Macmac will be along to reinforce that these are starting points.

From here, you start tweaking. I stopped when the gas mileage seemed right and the plugs looked okay.

[macmac]

I never had my grubby mitts on a carbed Nomad, but I have worked with most any carbs most anyone ever heard of, and a few no one has probably.

So yeah, go with these set up instructions to start out and start up the engine with.

Take a lot of care to not snap off the mix screw tip, or ram it into the seat. (pilot and mix screw are the same thing)

This is the only screw you can adjust as fuel, and it is responcible for fuel mix at idle and low rpm cross over ranges, working to mid range rpm, where the slide goes up enough, that this screw and circuit stop working, and other jets take over.

SO once the engine has become full warm, you can refine this screw setting.

Make a mark on the screw with a pin and paint to make a tiny mark. Make another with the pin and paint to align with another place on the carb as referance, after you have taken great care to get the screw OUT to 3.5 turns.

With the engine running first turn the screw very slowly IN for lean, and turn it till you feel a vibration change, hear a engine rpm drop. Then stop and go back OUT for richer, and slowly turn the screw passing 3.5 turns OUT untill you hear the engine miss a beat and begin to drown out spark as overly rich...

These are your new parimiters. Some where midway is the best rpm setting, so turn the screw back IN to leaner, and find the best over all rpm.

'IF' RPM beings to go way to high some where there is a throttle plate stop screw. On injected bikes this has a cable with a black thumb knob. I don't know if the 99's have the same thing or not, so I can't tell you where it it. Probably there is a thumb wheel somewhere though as that is very typical on most bikes. So use that to turn down incoming AIR, but only if rpm gets way over idle speed.

Once idle rpm has been attained pretty close, repeat turning the mix screw in and out for best rpm. When you have it, TURN the mix screw OUT about 1/8th more turn and leave it there.

This extra bit out is a sort of reserve. It takes a little extra fuel to get a parked bike and rider to be a moving bike and rider and this setting will assist in no lag time getting moving. There should be no "Flat Spot" getting moving.

Note: Once the mix screw is set at 3.5 turns out, never count in bigger increments than 1/8th turns again. And less is more desirable.

I have no idea why people think when a book says the idle mix screw should be set at X; they think this is written in stone as if some author somehwere knows your engine.

This is a book setting that should work over a lot of ranges to first start a brand new re-built carb,, or engine right off the bench, and will always need to be adjusted to work correctly with a given engine and or carb.. It is not written in STONE!

[reddog]

Yup, I'm in agreement with both these guys. These are starting reference points only, as each engine is different. A smaller filter should yield slightly less air though, so you may need to starve the gas a bit as compared to an 8 inch. I'm sure one of the guru type dudes will set it straight shortly ;)

[macmac]

I think filters that fit are about the same and is splitting hairs. A clogged filter on a carbed bike would change things some, en-richening mix. I doubt anyone here will allow a clogged air filter to remain on the bike very long.

In fact I worry more about the guys with K&N filters keeping them too clean, since they are made to be run dirty.

[reddog]

Told ya he'd show up, he even got his post in before mine...

[brenpak]

Thank you guys!! I will putz around until she gets were she needs ta be Im on vacation this week so Im sure I will have the time to tinker with it..Only thing is I dont have a kawasaki dealer near me here In Green Bay, Wisconsin. so I need to order parts via internet or drive 40+miles to the nearest dealer, That is why I ask you guys for your help alot Thank you very much!

[macmac]

LOL I have about 4 dealers with in 80 miles from me and none of them have a single part in stock for any bikes they sell ....

The dealer i bought my 06 nomad from has never once done a swing arm service .... EVER!

They have been around 20 years and not once have they ordered a set of swing arm seals. I saw the list going back to 'forever' and am the first ever to order any.

Not only that, but with the bike apart before in Cal, i did the service there, and so knew what was in there and what wasn't.

In the 4 dealerships i have asked the techs and service managers a few easy questions to answer they ALL got the answers wrong....

They all made up parts not in there from thin air to look as if they knew something. Taking me for a fool too.

Well in some ways i am a fool, but not when it comes to knowing about something I have had apart and put back together again before more than once!

Some of the service techs and managers told me there is shim packs, and or tappered bearings that can be adjusted to pre-load spec, which is pure thin air no matter how you look at it.

The read out I read, proved there were never so much as one seal set ordered ever in any past history ever!

if you think you can ride right down to the dealer and walk out with these parts on demand, you got another thing coming...

Call if you like and get it ordered up... My way is to walk in and fish bat the parts punk 30 times so he will understand to stop sexting his punk ass girlfriend a moment, and to make sure i got his full attention. Then I come over to read what he can see on the parts list and point out each part I want, making sure he can write down the numbers or copy and paste.

Don't make me come to Green Bay and slap you with my keyboard

[brenpak]

Well, I could not wait I drove 40 miles and picked up the 170 jet put it in set the pilot 3.5 turns. put everything back together except the air filter ( I wanted to see in the carb) turned the key on standing on the right side in front of the carb Turned it over and gas sprayed out and hit me in the crotch looked like I pissed myself Turns out I had carb breather and infeed hoses switched after that feasko she fired right up and sounds great Im going for a ride right after I post this Thanks guys... Go Packers!!!!

[ringadingh]

I hope you changed your pants first!

[macmac]

You want to steam nads not BBQ them Good thing you didn't fry...

[brenpak]

I read a little further and decided I would like to get a colortune plug to see were I'm at, as far as how rich/lean I am. until I get the colortune plug, I will try to get the parameters as Mac mentioned earlier in this thread. I took it for a ride and I can tell it has more snap, but still needs some fine tuning. It seemed to backfire threw the carb a couple of times rolling out from a stop Depending on how fast I twist the throttle. Any suggestions?During this mod I also gutted the goat bladder so my sound increased a little more (Brenpak Li key) So it feels like I'm riding a different Bike. How can I tell if I should go to a larger or smaller main jet? Trial and Error? I certainly dont want to go to lean. I have a 170 in it now. I suppose a colortune plug would give me that answer.. What causes a backfire threw the carb when I twist the throttle fast its fine when I twist it normal? sorry for all the questions Guys...

[macmac]

I am not sure, but would guess there is a way to adjust the main needle as well. Look into that idea.

This is in the sliding piston at the carb top.

I have seen tapered screws that do this, and there will be a washer in contact, that the pointy end of the screw can raise. I worked on another bike of mine and had to add 3 home washers because of other mods I made. I use sterling silver and ended up with 3 washers more in each carb, of 3.. The bike is a mint 1981 yammi 850 triple with 3 carbs.

The sterling was sheet in a known milimeter thick, and is the reason I used silver. I could have purchased shim stock brass in any auto stores.

A more common method in CV carbs which I am sure yours is, is clips and slots, where you pull the clip and push the needle up one slot and put the clip in at a give time.. This is a crude method, but it works..

Are there more than pilot jet and main? many CV carbs have 3 jets.

The pilot jet runs the choke en-richment valve, as well as warm idle and low to mid rpm circuits.
Another jet is mid range, and then the last is with the main metering needle as mid range and high rpm.

I don't know if you have all 3 jets or just 2...

The popping back on a hard romp it up twist is a lean miss. So far as I know there is no acceleration pump on this carb.. If there it it has a problem, but I would almost bet there isn't one.

This rpm range where you want lots of fuel must be made up with the pilot mix screw, and this is one place where it is important to have the setting be a bit overly rich at idle.

This is where you find best rpm at idle and then turn the screw a bit more OUT for a bit too much fuel at idle..

If you can't adjust that out and there is a mid range jet/ mid range rpm circuit, then you can try a larger jet.

Jets are marked in a drill size, with a number. No common house hold drill can drill the same way, so don't get a number drill set and try.

On the other hand a new jet can still have a sliver of brass lodged in it. A pipe cleaner is about all you can use safely to remove this type of burr.

To see it well you need a good glass like jem buyers use. About 10X power.

Another trick is to re-adjust the float level which I had to do on the 81 bike.. I had to increase the float levels by bending the tabs on the floats to stop later, which in turn raises the level. This is hit and miss, trial and error, but shouldn't be to hard on a single carb.

Setting 3 and 4 maybe 6 carbs all the same is exacting work. I did this on bikes with 3 and 4 carbs, but only Citeron SM with 6 webber single carbs before. A kind of car.

[brenpak]

After I adjusted the pilot jet today, (oh by the way after two cherry blossems on my hands that i will call burns) I got smart and cut a lttle hole in a rag and slid my little flat modified screw driver threw the hole also protecting my hands from getting burned anymore I am now at about 3 1/8 turns out and she runs like a top no snapping or backfireing I guess I should of done the hole job right away instead of getting excited to take it for a ride when it was half finished! Thank you Mac for steering me in the right direction She was a big job for me.