A couple of questions 1999 Vulcan Nomad 1500G

[Bolshevik]

Hello all. I am not sure where to ask these questions, but I have a couple of questions regarding my 1999 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1500G.

1. I just ordered a Barrons Big Air Kit zz39230. I just ordered that last week, but they sent me zz39239, which is for a V-Star 650. So, they are sending me the new part, I send them the old one, they paid for shipping, but it will be 1.5 weeks till THEY get it, then ship it to me. The question here is, I noticed that the kit came with a re-jetting kit. Do I need to re-jet my carb to use the big air kit? She did have straight pipes, done by the PO, but the carb was brand new, not altered.

2. Why are there “water lines” running to the carb? Does it keep the carb cooler, AND, it is necessary?

3. I was going to eliminate the vacuum lines. I was going to give it a cleaner look. Is this possible, considering it is NOT FI?

4. NOT saying I want to do this, but, considering it is a V-Twin, is it possible to eliminate the cooling system and just let it be air cooled? I am thinking of my 1999 Suzuki Intruder LC 1500, which is air cooled, and, of course, there is Harley as well. Just wondering about this....

I just had the motor redone, and had Mean Streak cams put in, valves and springs done, the motor regasketed and sealed, new water pump, the oil pump gear was previously replaced, and I installed a Mean Spring clutch previously.

I actually got this bike back in 2014, after I got rear ended on a cafe racer I built. Ugh, woman was texting as she rolled over me at 45mph, I was in a left turn lane. So, I was out of commission for about 3 months. Anyway, aster the accident, this guy I knew asked me if I still had my 1954 Russian made SKS. He said he still had his bike, and since he didn’t use the bike, he wanted to trade the rifle for the bike, if I wasn’t using the rifle. Obviously a trade occurred. When I got the bike, it was already sitting for 4 years, so, I had to replace all the calipers, clutch, slave cylinder, break/clutch lines, F/Rbrake and clutch controls, and the fuel Petcock. I rode the bike for 4 months, and then I had an issue with the oil disappearing into the cooling system. I had a bike shop in Florida look it over and tell me that o “blew the head gaskets”, and I needed to have the entire motor gone through. Disheartening as it was, I parked the bike in the garage, got a great deal on a 1999 Suzuki Intruder LC 1500, and was going to use that until I got the Nomad up and running again. 4 years later, I move to Lexington, NC and I just had the motor done at a bike shop, Max’s Speed Shop, in Kernersville, NC. It was here that they let me know thy Kawasaki did NOT use “gaskets”, they use a “silicone” on the heads, and that it was my water pump in hat went bad. I got a great deal on them sprucing up my motor, as I already had it taken out of the frame and the bike literally in plastic tubs.

So, with that said, I am basically going to build a “custom” bagger. I have a 2014 Harley police windshield that I will mount on it, a guy at church has a CNC machine and tile me he will build ANYTHING I need for this bike, a trunk off of a 1981 Harley FLH, a 1932 Ford Roadster tail light, red/orange marker/turn signal lights, the old metal “tear drop” lights that I will use for front/rear running and turn lights, and a few other odds/ends just to make it unique. I do plan on putting white walls on her, but that will be much later, as the Metzler 880s are BRAND NEW, less than 100 miles on them. Lol.

I know it is a long post, like I said, if it doesn’t belong here, I am sorry for that. Just wanted to start somewhere. Lol. Hope you all have an awesome day. If you’re anywhere near Lexington, NC, let me know if you want to ride. The Blue Ridge is amazing.

[ponch]

[QUOTE=Bolshevik;712658]Hello all. I am not sure where to ask these questions, but I have a couple of questions regarding my 1999 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1500G.

1. I just ordered a Barrons Big Air Kit zz39230. I just ordered that last week, but they sent me zz39239, which is for a V-Star 650. So, they are sending me the new part, I send them the old one, they paid for shipping, but it will be 1.5 weeks till THEY get it, then ship it to me. The question here is, I noticed that the kit came with a re-jetting kit. Do I need to re-jet my carb to use the big air kit? She did have straight pipes, done by the PO, but the carb was brand new, not altered.

I don't know that particular setup, but with pipes and an air kit, stock jetting isn't advised. I am sure someone familiar with that model will chime in. If it was an 800, I could give spcific advice.

2. Why are there “water lines” running to the carb? Does it keep the carb cooler, AND, it is necessary?

I would leave it.

3. I was going to eliminate the vacuum lines. I was going to give it a cleaner look. Is this possible, considering it is NOT FI?

Some of it. Maybe you want to look here: https://www.vulcangadgets.com


4. NOT saying I want to do this, but, considering it is a V-Twin, is it possible to eliminate the cooling system and just let it be air cooled? I am thinking of my 1999 Suzuki Intruder LC 1500, which is air cooled, and, of course, there is Harley as well. Just wondering about this....

That's crazy. It was designed for liquid cooling. Would you drain the radiator in your car because you wanted it air cooled?

I just had the motor redone, and had Mean Streak cams put in, valves and springs done, the motor regasketed and sealed, new water pump, the oil pump gear was previously replaced, and I installed a Mean Spring clutch previously.

[mick56]

After following the modifications already mentioned.I would advise fitting a Barons carb mixture screw.It is longer than the original,which is set up inside a recess,and has a lead seal over the screw head,so cant be adjusted.The Baron has a knurled head,on an elongated shaft,which can be reached without removing the carb.Get the carb off,then get a sharp screwdriver to uncover the slot on the old screw.When you manage to unscrew it,beware of the 2 washers,1 rubber,1 steel,and the spring, that are on the end of it.That water pipe you refer to,is bullshit.It does NOT flow through the carb at all.It is purely a stop end,and needs to be snapped off at the carb,otherwise it will be in the way of the Barons screw.The hose that goes to,and from it,should be connected.I used a small bore piece of pipe,that fit internally,with clamps either side.The Barons screw should be screwed in until it feels tight,bearing in mind that you are compressing the spring.Dont over tighten it,as the tip of the needle is really fragile,and easily damaged.Once you are happy,wind it back out 2.5-3.5 full turns,any more than 4 turns and it is fully open,so pointless.Depending on what other mods you have done,regards pipes,air filter,ect,you can now adjust it to suit the bike.After much farting about,i ended up with a 173 main jet,and 45 idle/slow running.And dont listen to those that will tell you that the CVK carb that you have,is the same as the CV that is on the Harleys,i can assure you it is not.Harley are imperial thread,Kawasaki are metric.The threads on the jets are not compatible,and the spring & washers on the Barons are too big to fit.Here is a link.Contact them,and ask for the spring & washers too.The Harley ones are too big to fit.Good luck mate.https://www.baronscustom.com/catalog...504/index.html

[ponch]

Originally Posted by mick56

After following the modifications already mentioned.I would advise fitting a Barons carb mixture screw.It is longer than the original,which is set up inside a recess,and has a lead seal over the screw head,so cant be adjusted.The Baron has a knurled head,on an elongated shaft,which can be reached without removing the carb.Get the carb off,then get a sharp screwdriver to uncover the slot on the old screw.When you manage to unscrew it,beware of the 2 washers,1 rubber,1 steel,and the spring, that are on the end of it.That water pipe you refer to,is bullshit.It does NOT flow through the carb at all.It is purely a stop end,and needs to be snapped off at the carb,otherwise it will be in the way of the Barons screw.The hose that goes to,and from it,should be connected.I used a small bore piece of pipe,that fit internally,with clamps either side.The Barons screw should be screwed in until it feels tight,bearing in mind that you are compressing the spring.Dont over tighten it,as the tip of the needle is really fragile,and easily damaged.Once you are happy,wind it back out 2.5-3.5 full turns,any more than 4 turns and it is fully open,so pointless.Depending on what other mods you have done,regards pipes,air filter,ect,you can now adjust it to suit the bike.After much farting about,i ended up with a 173 main jet,and 45 idle/slow running.And dont listen to those that will tell you that the CVK carb that you have,is the same as the CV that is on the Harleys,i can assure you it is not.Harley are imperial thread,Kawasaki are metric.The threads on the jets are not compatible,and the spring & washers on the Barons are too big to fit.Here is a link.Contact them,and ask for the spring & washers too.The Harley ones are too big to fit.Good luck mate.https://www.baronscustom.com/catalog...504/index.html

Did you get rid of the air injection?

I did on my 800. Did a scooterized air intake and debaffled pipes. I ran a 165 main and 48 pilot. Thing sounded like a small block chevy v8. I imagine the 1500 would wake up similarly.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by ponch

Did you get rid of the air injection?

I did on my 800. Did a scooterized air intake and debaffled pipes. I ran a 165 main and 48 pilot. Thing sounded like a small block chevy v8. I imagine the 1500 would wake up similarly.

Yes.I ripped off all the emissions crap,including the crossover tube,and fitted a K&N on the right.I also had a set of straight through pipes made in stainless steel.It made a lot of difference.

[Bolshevik]

Thank you all so much for the replies. I really appreciate it. Especially the hidden screw/washer/spring set up. I will definitely be checking into that. She did sound amazing with the straight pipes before the water pump gave up. I am at a point where I am waiting for parts to come in. Might as well order a few more. Lol.

[ponch]

Originally Posted by Bolshevik

Thank you all so much for the replies. I really appreciate it. Especially the hidden screw/washer/spring set up. I will definitely be checking into that. She did sound amazing with the straight pipes before the water pump gave up. I am at a point where I am waiting for parts to come in. Might as well order a few more. Lol.

The waterpump might require the cases be split. One guy did one without splitting the cases, but it wasn't easy. CadmannQ I think was his handle.

[ponch]

Here's a link