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09-07-2019, 10:47 AM | #1 |
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TPS issues 1998 1500 Nomad Carbed)
Dealing with running problems and as part of the diagnostics process tested the TPS with the TPS harness adapter and a Fluke DMM. I was getting 3.6v on idle and 0.7V open throttle. couldn't adjust it,So, Ordered a new one from Kawasaki. These things aren't cheap at £325. But no UK stock. Three week wait for the unit to be shipped from Japan. While waiting my brothers 97 VN1500 Classic developed a seriously fuel leak. Carb stripped and inspected to find some debris in the float bowl and a failed float needle valve. Carb had an hour in my ultrasonic cleaner, reassembled with new float assembly. Attached the TPS harness adapter and low and behold, readings were wrong so attempted to adjust. Lowest readings achieved were 3.6v at idle and 0.6v at open throttle. so another faulty TPS? Brother given the bad news.
New TPS arrives for my bike and installed. Reading is 3.3 on idle and 0.8 on open throttle? No useful adjustment...Why the reverse readings on the 2 bikes and then new TPS? Any help appreciated. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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09-07-2019, 02:19 PM | #2 |
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Why do you want to adjust sometime than isn't adjustable? Why does everyone want to alter a really great running bike. The timing events, your throttle positioning sensor has very little play, so, very little adjustment. All the important shit is controlled by your ECU. The purpose of the EFI Controller is to vary your base programming to improve performance and enhance the way the bike runs....If your tps values are out, replace it. you can fine tune a little, there is some movement in its installation.
If you wanna mess with such shit, use a ignition controller from Dynatec that has several performance maps (were used mostly for the Meanies)....They're not made anymore. I'm running one on my 1500 (but my engine is heavily modified, ie, cams, hi-compress.pistons, non-stock rods, extensive porting, bigger injectors, etc), you can find them used sometimes....
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Last edited by DragonLady58; 09-07-2019 at 02:29 PM.
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09-07-2019, 06:54 PM | #3 |
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these are just thoughts ! no offense intended ! 3 sensors all reading backwards not likely . could you be using the wrong harness or meter readings ? do you know the difference between a TPS and a Potentiometer ? they look identical but 1 the TPS starts about half a volt and rises to about 5 volts . the other starts high and drops as you open it . so I would try to research Your hookup of the meter . and get a pin voltage chart if you can find one . But the odds of 3 sensors being wrong to the same values is out there . Just thoughts
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09-08-2019, 07:35 AM | #4 |
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pipereed.
I had the same experience on my 99 carbed. I bought another one, and that read backwards too. So i just disconnected it, and it seemed to rev out more than before. Been like that for about 4-5yrs now.
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09-08-2019, 11:04 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
*TPS/Potentiometer... It looks like I have been educated, Kind thanks Sir. Then all 3 are Potentiometer's. I call it a TPS because thats what Kawasaki referees to them as "Throttle Sensor" in section 15-65 in the Factory Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Manual 99924-1241-01; and the section is "Throttle Sensor Position Adjustment". As far as I was concerned, its a TPS. I must be dumb for believing what its telling me in the manual. * The Throttle Sensor Setting Adapter Kawasaki Part number 57001-1400 was purchased from Partzilla.com. I followed the instructions in section 15-65 to the letter. Readings on my fluke DMM was set at 20v DC. Although it doesn't say anywhere in the manual what settings to use? Scott, No offense taken Login or Register to Remove Ads
Last edited by pipereed; 09-09-2019 at 09:58 AM.
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09-08-2019, 11:06 AM | #6 |
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09-08-2019, 11:09 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
Did I mention it was a carbed bike? |
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09-08-2019, 01:07 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
http://autoditex.com/page/throttle-p...-tps-22-1.html |
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09-08-2019, 01:38 PM | #9 |
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No it's not mate. I tried to adjust mine after fitting the go faster bits on the bike, and it read backwards. So i bought one from a bloke in the states for $100, that was the same. I also bought the Kawasaki gizmo. Results were still the same. I made some notes of what the readings should be,dont know if you can read it though. If i remember rightly, i concluded that the figures were the wrong way around. Anyway i gave up on it.
The multi meter should be set at 10 amps,and ignition should be on.
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09-09-2019, 09:54 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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09-09-2019, 10:27 AM | #11 |
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I seem to recall trying the multi meter on all the wires, in different combinations, and still not getting the readings i should. I aint no wiring guru, but i tried everything, and it baffled the shit out of me. Like i said before. I disconnected it, and the engine revved out better than it did before. I understand that with it disconnected, the ecu, or whatever you want to call it, thinks the throttle is wide open all the time. I assume that means that it delivers more fuel, therefore, more giddyup.
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09-09-2019, 10:28 AM | #12 |
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Ever consider the possibility the manual is wrong? Seen it before.
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09-09-2019, 10:40 AM | #13 |
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That was my conclusion mate. But in the absence of any better information, i gave it a swerve.
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09-09-2019, 04:41 PM | #14 |
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09-09-2019, 05:08 PM | #15 |
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Scouser on the march. Take no prisoners mate.
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Last edited by mick56; 09-09-2019 at 05:10 PM.
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