Need help-Coolant change

[vulcanguy]

??? Hi
I live in Aylmer Que. (just west of Ottawa). This Spring, I would like to flush & change the coolant from my rad, (2005 Nomad ). I have all the tools, just need a coach, help. Anybody done this before? & live close to me? sure would like your help. I could go to the Stealer, but I would like to learn. I do all oil changes etc. etc.

Free lunch & refreshments

Thanks all

Guy

[cnc]

In case you don't have it here is a link to the 1600 shop manualhttp://www.kawanow.org/pdf/1600Nomad05Manual.pdf

I have not had the opportunity to change the coolant on a nomad but I have done plenty on cars and snowmobiles.
If you wait till the beginning of the riding season, I could make this an excuse to go for a ride in your direction.

[vulcanguy]

Tks cnc :)
I would be gr8full if you could lend me a hand. I have read the book, even have Gadget’s info on it. I just don't want to venture on this alone....

Tks
Guy
AKA Vulcanguy

[Cajunrider]

Guy,
I changed my coolant for the first time in late 2009. I have an '06 Nomad. First thing I did was to remove the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. I didn't have a new gasket on hand and my old one came off in pieces. Went to the dealer and he didn't have any either. Told me it would be 3 days before he could get one in. No kidding! I went to Lowes and bought a pack of the large faucet washers and drilled the center hole out the same as the OD of the plug. Solved that problem. I removed the fuel tank completely to get to the cap. You can do it without removing the tank but it give you access to all of the hose clamps to check them for tightness. Most were loose and I was able to see where one had been leaking very slowly evidenced by a small buildup of dry antifreeze. I torqued all of the clamps and had to cut a short piece of the small hose that leads from the cap chamber to the overflow tank behind the right side cover. The clamps on both of the small hoses are the squeeze type. I recommend getting the standard screw type hose clamps and to replace them. The reason I had to cut a small piece was because the clamp wouldn't secure the hose tight enough and I was afraid it would leak. Anyway, I removed the bolts that secure the overflow tank and emptied what was left in it. I also removed the drain plug on the bottom of the water pump to drain what remained in the block. I didn't flush anything out as there was no apparent sludge or crud in the antifreeze I drained. I filled the radiator and overflow tank and leaned the Nomad side to side to work all of the air out of the block and hoses. Topped off the radiator again and filled the overflow tank to 1/2 way between full and low. Tapped on the hoses and leaned the bike back and forth again with no bubbles coming up to the surface. Replaced the cap and tank and cranked her up and warmed up until the fan kicked on. The level in the overflow tank rose to the full mark when it warmed up. Let it cool and the level came back down to 1/2 between the marks. Repeated the warm up and cooldown again then took her for a spin. Level remained the same. Try to hold off until your fuel tank is nearly empty. Makes removing the tank much easier. If you ever planned on installing a TFI, Cobra, or Power Commander fuel processer, do it when you remove the tank. Makes connecting the cables to the injectors much easier. I followed Gadjet's procedure but did not warm it up with the radiator cap removed. No problems. Be sure to use silicate free antifreeze. I used the blue bottle Honda Pro Coolant already mixed 50/50. Good luck.

Mitch

[garyo4]

Great write-up Mitch, thanks!

[vulcanguy]

Hi Mitch

Thanks so much for all the info!
Got to love this board.
I also will be using the Honda Pro Coolant.
CNC, now we will have some good info to work with, :)

Cheers all
Guy
AKA Vulcanguy

[cnc]

Originally Posted by vulcanguy

Hi Mitch

Thanks so much for all the info!
Got to love this board.
I also will be using the Honda Pro Coolant.
CNC, now we will have some good info to work with, :)

Cheers all
Guy
AKA Vulcanguy

Guy,
After this, the only thing to do on your "to do list" should be rearranging your Holiday dates so you can make it to the North East Rally!

[vulcanguy]

I wish...
I'm sure we can plan more trips were I can ride with you & the gang. But i must say Newfoundland will be a gr8 trip also!
Looking forward to meeting you CNC...I will have the BBQ going & some cold ones for ya....:)

Cheers
Guy

[Cajunrider]

Guy, One thing I forgot to mention is when you squeeze and remove the pressure fuel line from the tank, you may get a drop or two of gasoline to drop on the engine. It's a good idea to put a rag below the hose to catch any fuel drips. Also, very important, make certain that the connections "clicks" when you reconnect it after putting your fuel tank back in place. If it doesn't click, it could release under pressure when you are riding and spray gasoline on your hot engine. That would surely ruin your day and maybe your hide if it ignites. You can block up the back of the tank instead of completely removing it but it's much easier to just get the tank out of the way completely. It only takes about 20 minutes to remove the tank the first time. After the first time it will come off much quicker. Take care.

[vulcanguy]

Hi Cajunrider

Thanks for the tip :)
What I do to the fuel lines is insert a golf tee in it to block it off...works gr8!
I know, some of you are yelling....4!!!!!

Cheers

Guy
AKA Vulcanguy