Drive shaft seal

BigRiig · 06-05-2024, 02:30 PM

During a short day ride this past weekend, I noticed a clicking sound coming from the right side of the bike. When I parked it in the garage, there was a leak coming from the drive shaft boot. Gear oil fo sure. I've been meaning to rebuild the differential since there is grease/oil flung on the rear wheel.

This new leak solidifies that I'm going to need to tackle this project before putting any more miles on the bike. I am wondering about a couple of items:

1. Could the clicking sound be the U-joint going out? Should I just replace it anyway?

2. Is there a parts list or kit for rebuild kit for the driveshaft/differential?

**plumber63** · 06-05-2024, 09:07 PM

for u joint
https://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/...ad.php?t=17405

not sure if this is what you are looking for.
https://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/...ad.php?t=15738

BigRiig · 06-12-2024, 05:35 PM

Ok, I decided to purchase a used rear swing arm that has a rebuilt final drive. All seals and gears are good. It comes sans drive shaft. Here is my question: it would appear that I can remove the rear tire, unbolt the shocks, brake caliper, unbolt the swing arm and remove it while leaving the drive shaft attached to the bike? It looks like it would just slide out and I could slide the new swing arm into place and bolt it all back together with a new dust boot of course. Is there anything I am missing?

redjay · 06-12-2024, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRiig

Ok, I decided to purchase a used rear swing arm that has a rebuilt final drive. All seals and gears are good. It comes sans drive shaft. Here is my question: it would appear that I can remove the rear tire, unbolt the shocks, brake caliper, unbolt the swing arm and remove it while leaving the drive shaft attached to the bike? It looks like it would just slide out and I could slide the new swing arm into place and bolt it all back together with a new dust boot of course. Is there anything I am missing?

Its been a while but wouldn't you have to remove the drive shaft to install a new dust boot ? Its not difficult to remove the drive shaft.

The following is from Gadgets Vulcan page. https://gadgetsfixitpage.com/

"Turn the driveshaft by grabbing it at the rear (that's the splined "sliding joint"). Watch for a little hole to appear on its front end, where the rubber boot was.

lg driveshaft pin1
Use a very small Allen wrench or other suitable tool to poke into the hole. Press down, which compresses a spring, which releases the drive shaft lock. [important Gadget note: you were actually pressing down on a very small, spring loaded metal pin in that hole. The pin can pop out of the hole once the driveshaft has been moved back and you 'will' lose it if you're not careful. I now (having spent an hour looking for that sucker once) take the precaution of removing the pin with a magnet and placing it in a cup for safe keeping]
Pull the drive shaft back toward the rear about 1-2 inches by grabbing the sliding joint. It will slide off the front joint. Use a small disposable brush to coat the front splines with grease".

BigRiig · 06-13-2024, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redjay

Its been a while but wouldn't you have to remove the drive shaft to install a new dust boot ? Its not difficult to remove the drive shaft.

I think if I remove the swing arm and leave the drive shaft in place, I can slip the boot over the drive shaft before installing the new swing arm...unless I am missing something. Ultimately I am trying to avoid removing the drive shaft if possible.

redjay · 06-13-2024, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRiig

I think if I remove the swing arm and leave the drive shaft in place, I can slip the boot over the drive shaft before installing the new swing arm...unless I am missing something. Ultimately I am trying to avoid removing the drive shaft if possible.

Have you inspected the universal joint on your drive shaft ?

BigRiig · 06-17-2024, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redjay

Have you inspected the universal joint on your drive shaft ?

Not yet. I plan on taking it apart this afternoon. If the U-joint is good, I am going to just put the new swing arm in place once it comes later this week.

BigRiig · 06-20-2024, 08:50 PM

Swing arm off and the drive shaft and U-joint are in perfect condition. I am waiting on the new boot and spring and should be able to reinstall everything tonight or tomorrow.

I ended up getting a whole rebuilt final drive off of Ebay and only had to order a new boot and spring from Kawasaki. Parts total was roughly $100.

BigRiig · 06-21-2024, 10:08 PM

Closing this out as I was able to get it all installed and running great. Here is the rundown for anyone wanting to tackle this project:

First you will need a motorcycle lift capable of lifting the whole bike off the ground about 12"-18".

1. Before lifting the bike off the ground, remove the saddlebags, rear brake caliper, left side saddlebag bracket, the bar behind the rear wheel that connects the two saddlebag brackets, and use a zip tie or something similar to hold the exhaust pipe on that side up so it’s not dangling.

2. Remove the brake line from the caliper and wrap the end of the line with plastic. Secure the plastic with tape or a zip tie. You will need to do this to feed it through the loops that hold the line in place. Some say to cut the loops but this is a much easier method.

3. Raise the bike high enough to remove the rear wheel.

4. Unbolt the front bolt holding the brake caliper bracket. The bracket will come out after you remove the rear axle.

5. Loosen and remove the castle nut on the axle that is on the right side (there should be a cotter pin that you will need to remove first).

6. Use a rubber mallet or non metal hammer to gently tap the axle back towards the left side of the bike. Continue to remove the axle completely by pulling it out from the left side of the bike. *Be careful when doing this as the brake caliper bracket will fall out once the axle has been removed.

7. Remove the brake caliper bracket and spacer on the right side. You should now be able to gently pull the wheel away from the final drive and wiggle it out. This can be tricky to get the wheel out so take your time and try angling it towards the left to get it out.

8. Remove the left side shock.

9. Unbolt the 4 nuts holding the final drive to the swingarm and remove the final drive. Note that there is a spring inside where the final drive connects to the drive shaft. This will cause the final drive to push out once the nuts are removed so take care to make sure it doesn’t fall.

10. Remove the right side shock and use a zip tie or something similar in the place of the shock to keep the swing arm from dropping.

11. Remove the pivot bolt from the swing arm. There is a plastic cover over the bolt that can be removed with a small screwdriver. The swing arm will drop slightly and can be pulled towards the back of the bike. The drive shaft will remain connected to the transmission.

12. Rotate the drive shaft until you locate the small hole on the collar that connects to the transmission. Use a small punch to gently push the pin in. This will release the drive shaft. Take care not to let the pin shoot out after you have removed the drive shaft.

Reverse the order to reinstall everything and BOOM, you are done. It’s pretty straightforward and simple, but will just take time and patience.

06-05-2024, 02:30 PM	#1
BigRiig Jr. Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Northern California Posts: 48	Drive shaft seal During a short day ride this past weekend, I noticed a clicking sound coming from the right side of the bike. When I parked it in the garage, there was a leak coming from the drive shaft boot. Gear oil fo sure. I've been meaning to rebuild the differential since there is grease/oil flung on the rear wheel. This new leak solidifies that I'm going to need to tackle this project before putting any more miles on the bike. I am wondering about a couple of items: 1. Could the clicking sound be the U-joint going out? Should I just replace it anyway? 2. Is there a parts list or kit for rebuild kit for the driveshaft/differential? Login or Register to Remove Ads
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06-05-2024, 09:07 PM	#2
plumber63 Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: NE Indiana Posts: 997	for u joint https://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/...ad.php?t=17405 not sure if this is what you are looking for. https://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/...ad.php?t=15738 __________________ Troy Donat VBA #02401 2015 Voyager 2006 1600 Nomad black(sold) 2016 Salem, Antlers, 2017 Eureka Springs, Lake George, Antlers 2018 Custer NR, Antlers
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06-12-2024, 05:35 PM	#3
BigRiig Jr. Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Northern California Posts: 48	Ok, I decided to purchase a used rear swing arm that has a rebuilt final drive. All seals and gears are good. It comes sans drive shaft. Here is my question: it would appear that I can remove the rear tire, unbolt the shocks, brake caliper, unbolt the swing arm and remove it while leaving the drive shaft attached to the bike? It looks like it would just slide out and I could slide the new swing arm into place and bolt it all back together with a new dust boot of course. Is there anything I am missing?
	0

06-20-2024, 08:50 PM	#8
BigRiig Jr. Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Northern California Posts: 48	Swing arm off and the drive shaft and U-joint are in perfect condition. I am waiting on the new boot and spring and should be able to reinstall everything tonight or tomorrow. I ended up getting a whole rebuilt final drive off of Ebay and only had to order a new boot and spring from Kawasaki. Parts total was roughly $100.
	2

06-21-2024, 10:08 PM	#9
BigRiig Jr. Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Northern California Posts: 48	Closing this out as I was able to get it all installed and running great. Here is the rundown for anyone wanting to tackle this project: First you will need a motorcycle lift capable of lifting the whole bike off the ground about 12"-18". 1. Before lifting the bike off the ground, remove the saddlebags, rear brake caliper, left side saddlebag bracket, the bar behind the rear wheel that connects the two saddlebag brackets, and use a zip tie or something similar to hold the exhaust pipe on that side up so it’s not dangling. 2. Remove the brake line from the caliper and wrap the end of the line with plastic. Secure the plastic with tape or a zip tie. You will need to do this to feed it through the loops that hold the line in place. Some say to cut the loops but this is a much easier method. 3. Raise the bike high enough to remove the rear wheel. 4. Unbolt the front bolt holding the brake caliper bracket. The bracket will come out after you remove the rear axle. 5. Loosen and remove the castle nut on the axle that is on the right side (there should be a cotter pin that you will need to remove first). 6. Use a rubber mallet or non metal hammer to gently tap the axle back towards the left side of the bike. Continue to remove the axle completely by pulling it out from the left side of the bike. *Be careful when doing this as the brake caliper bracket will fall out once the axle has been removed. 7. Remove the brake caliper bracket and spacer on the right side. You should now be able to gently pull the wheel away from the final drive and wiggle it out. This can be tricky to get the wheel out so take your time and try angling it towards the left to get it out. 8. Remove the left side shock. 9. Unbolt the 4 nuts holding the final drive to the swingarm and remove the final drive. Note that there is a spring inside where the final drive connects to the drive shaft. This will cause the final drive to push out once the nuts are removed so take care to make sure it doesn’t fall. 10. Remove the right side shock and use a zip tie or something similar in the place of the shock to keep the swing arm from dropping. 11. Remove the pivot bolt from the swing arm. There is a plastic cover over the bolt that can be removed with a small screwdriver. The swing arm will drop slightly and can be pulled towards the back of the bike. The drive shaft will remain connected to the transmission. 12. Rotate the drive shaft until you locate the small hole on the collar that connects to the transmission. Use a small punch to gently push the pin in. This will release the drive shaft. Take care not to let the pin shoot out after you have removed the drive shaft. Reverse the order to reinstall everything and BOOM, you are done. It’s pretty straightforward and simple, but will just take time and patience.
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