Engine cuts out at higher speeds?

Mechaniac · 10-06-2023, 01:58 PM

Solved, see next post.
I have a 2008 Mean Streak 1600, about 10,500 miles on it. It has an issue that seems to slowly be getting worse. I'm hoping someone on the forum has seen this and can recommend a way to check for the fix.

The engine runs great but starts to cut out randomly at about 110 and will get worse if I keep the throttle open. Sometimes once it's doing this it will reoccur at speeds as low as 85.

It feels like ignition because it's either full power or none. Fuel would fade in and out slower.

I have access to pass through spark indicators but that won't tell me the cause. I also have scanner with a built in scope, but I don't want to spend hours trying to orchestrate that on a bike at high speeds.

It has a Cobra fuel tuner on it. Swapping ECM's didn't change it. Level in fuel tank has no effect.

I'm planning on cleaning and tightening grounds as that seems to be common issue with the Vulcan electronics.

Any tips?

Vernon

DragonLady58 · 10-06-2023, 09:59 PM

Check your grounds, clean your throttle body with carb cleaner, you could also try to either richen up your tuner on top end. The Vulcans have a built in rev limiter, I've seen a few bikes that choke up on top end, where the cylinders get all carboned up and all....
What happens is the fuel won't burn correctly, and isn't being ignited correctly by the plugs....
Also, pull your injectors and check their spray pattern....If after checking all your fuel system, you could be running outta spark also....lie what you were thinking. Iridiums resist fouling, take less voltage to spark....run a primary and secondary checks with your multi-testor on the coils to make sure they're healthy.
About once a month I bounce it off the rev-limiter a couple of times that way carbon doesn't build up.
On my built up Nomad, which has a 1600 in it, once I hit 115, she's still pulling hard and fast, and thats all I dare to go. I've noticed if I try to pass 100 that if I have cheap gas, it loses power as it leans out. I can get around it if I use lucas octane booster....
My Nomad engine has really high compression, I have to watch for knocking, which is why I carry 5 or 6 bottles of the octane booster at all times....hope this helps.

Mechaniac · 11-20-2023, 10:11 AM

I R&R'ed the fuel pump Saturday with the famous internet brand. The screen and filter were still in excellent shape. It seemed a little punchier but the top end stalling is still there.
The check valve mentioned in another thread is the fuel return fitting check valve. Mine flowed freely with a little compressed air.

This issue isn't due to the fuel supply.

Chuck A. · 11-20-2023, 09:38 PM

What mufflers are you running? My 1700 with the Ivans tune runs better with the stock mufflers over the V&H. Way more torque thru the rpm range. Some engines just needs the back pressure.

Also check the intake for leaks. Spray some WD40 around the outer intake connections while at an idle and see if the rpm's change. If it does you have a leak.

Mechaniac · 06-24-2024, 10:56 AM

SOLVED: A bad battery could not flow enough current through it to supply ignition/ECM properly at WOT. This is with a Li Ion battery, it's under warranty so I will be able to determine if that is the problem or most likely a defective battery.

About 2 months ago I was showing the bike to a lady at a local bar and had the speakers playing some music. About 3-5 minutes into the conversation the electrical system just went flat and I had to leave it until I came back in the morning and jumped it off. I had noticed some weak cranking at times before that, but it always fired off. My voltage meter while it fluctuated around a lot was always above 13 volts with the engine running and it always charged up again. I had managed to forget the key on for 10 minutes about a month ago and had to access the battery to jump it after trying to push start it a few times in Texas heat. At least I was able to push it back to shade, though it was slightly uphill. Fun times. So, I knew I needed to replace the battery soon, but it was functional as long as I didn't forget to turn the electric system off at every engine stop. I looked up the vendor and the battery is under warranty, I found my old one (AGM) and it was still okay and took a charge. So yesterday was maintenance day and I swapped it back. I had read on Microsoft search AI results that a bad battery could cause my problems for the reason I gave so I was definitely curious how it would run.

It ran very well, never a hick-up. Full power available at all times. I was able to reach 120 MPH on the factory speedometer in the heat of the day without any issues. WOT acceleration is better as well, it must have been fading at times. Maybe my mileage will go back up, it went down about 8 MPG after adjusting the fuel tuner to maximum power, but I probably installed the Li Ion Battery about then as well. I noticed the voltage reading was much steadier than it has been for a while. Quickly building up to over 14V and staying there steady.

So just another area to keep in mind when having similar issues.

Vernon

10-06-2023, 01:58 PM	#1
Mechaniac Member Join Date: May 2022 Location: Magnolia, Texas Posts: 83	Engine cuts out at higher speeds? Solved, see next post. I have a 2008 Mean Streak 1600, about 10,500 miles on it. It has an issue that seems to slowly be getting worse. I'm hoping someone on the forum has seen this and can recommend a way to check for the fix. The engine runs great but starts to cut out randomly at about 110 and will get worse if I keep the throttle open. Sometimes once it's doing this it will reoccur at speeds as low as 85. It feels like ignition because it's either full power or none. Fuel would fade in and out slower. I have access to pass through spark indicators but that won't tell me the cause. I also have scanner with a built in scope, but I don't want to spend hours trying to orchestrate that on a bike at high speeds. It has a Cobra fuel tuner on it. Swapping ECM's didn't change it. Level in fuel tank has no effect. I'm planning on cleaning and tightening grounds as that seems to be common issue with the Vulcan electronics. Any tips? Vernon Login or Register to Remove Ads Last edited by Mechaniac; 06-26-2024 at 08:56 AM. Reason: updated to solved.
	0

10-06-2023, 09:59 PM	#2
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,368	Check your grounds, clean your throttle body with carb cleaner, you could also try to either richen up your tuner on top end. The Vulcans have a built in rev limiter, I've seen a few bikes that choke up on top end, where the cylinders get all carboned up and all.... What happens is the fuel won't burn correctly, and isn't being ignited correctly by the plugs.... Also, pull your injectors and check their spray pattern....If after checking all your fuel system, you could be running outta spark also....lie what you were thinking. Iridiums resist fouling, take less voltage to spark....run a primary and secondary checks with your multi-testor on the coils to make sure they're healthy. About once a month I bounce it off the rev-limiter a couple of times that way carbon doesn't build up. On my built up Nomad, which has a 1600 in it, once I hit 115, she's still pulling hard and fast, and thats all I dare to go. I've noticed if I try to pass 100 that if I have cheap gas, it loses power as it leans out. I can get around it if I use lucas octane booster.... My Nomad engine has really high compression, I have to watch for knocking, which is why I carry 5 or 6 bottles of the octane booster at all times....hope this helps. __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
	1

11-20-2023, 09:38 PM	#4
Chuck A. Advanced Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Hartselle Alabama Posts: 995	What mufflers are you running? My 1700 with the Ivans tune runs better with the stock mufflers over the V&H. Way more torque thru the rpm range. Some engines just needs the back pressure. Also check the intake for leaks. Spray some WD40 around the outer intake connections while at an idle and see if the rpm's change. If it does you have a leak. __________________ Have A Good One, Chuck Patriot Guard Riders Sons Of Liberty Riders Alabama Road Captain 2015 Voyager 2003 1500 NOMAD FI sold 6/19 VBA #2993 RUSSELL DAYLONG SEATS ROCK!! DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs There is no substitute for laminar flow in which a helmet is the primary disturbance. SO MANY ROADS, SO LITTLE TIME.
	2

06-24-2024, 10:56 AM	#5
Mechaniac Member Join Date: May 2022 Location: Magnolia, Texas Posts: 83	SOLVED: A bad battery could not flow enough current through it to supply ignition/ECM properly at WOT. This is with a Li Ion battery, it's under warranty so I will be able to determine if that is the problem or most likely a defective battery. About 2 months ago I was showing the bike to a lady at a local bar and had the speakers playing some music. About 3-5 minutes into the conversation the electrical system just went flat and I had to leave it until I came back in the morning and jumped it off. I had noticed some weak cranking at times before that, but it always fired off. My voltage meter while it fluctuated around a lot was always above 13 volts with the engine running and it always charged up again. I had managed to forget the key on for 10 minutes about a month ago and had to access the battery to jump it after trying to push start it a few times in Texas heat. At least I was able to push it back to shade, though it was slightly uphill. Fun times. So, I knew I needed to replace the battery soon, but it was functional as long as I didn't forget to turn the electric system off at every engine stop. I looked up the vendor and the battery is under warranty, I found my old one (AGM) and it was still okay and took a charge. So yesterday was maintenance day and I swapped it back. I had read on Microsoft search AI results that a bad battery could cause my problems for the reason I gave so I was definitely curious how it would run. It ran very well, never a hick-up. Full power available at all times. I was able to reach 120 MPH on the factory speedometer in the heat of the day without any issues. WOT acceleration is better as well, it must have been fading at times. Maybe my mileage will go back up, it went down about 8 MPG after adjusting the fuel tuner to maximum power, but I probably installed the Li Ion Battery about then as well. I noticed the voltage reading was much steadier than it has been for a while. Quickly building up to over 14V and staying there steady. So just another area to keep in mind when having similar issues. Vernon Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

11-20-2023, 10:11 AM	#3
Mechaniac Member Join Date: May 2022 Location: Magnolia, Texas Posts: 83	I R&R'ed the fuel pump Saturday with the famous internet brand. The screen and filter were still in excellent shape. It seemed a little punchier but the top end stalling is still there. The check valve mentioned in another thread is the fuel return fitting check valve. Mine flowed freely with a little compressed air. This issue isn't due to the fuel supply.
	0