Belt Tension........

[mr500]

So I am changing out the tire on my 19' from that crappy OEM to MII.

I saw a video on belt adjustment but he was using a Vaq and not the voyager. He used the rear slotted window to adjust the tension

My Voy manual states to use the front tick marks on the cover and use the window to see the gage.

Which is the best way? I assume I need to follow MY manual since it is a different machine. Also, I will mark the belt location before and after the 10 lbs force and measure the difference. Correct? New to all this belt stuff..

I say that incase it falls between 2 hashmarks and I cant use the 5mm spacing from the hashmarks

Before my belt was at 3rd tick from the bottom. Tool will be here today to apply the pressure.

[Peg]

I have a belt tension tool, and after setting my tension to around 8 to 10mm deflection at 10lb's pressure, I have not used the tension tool in years.

If you're happy with the alignment and the tension of your belt - you don't need to move the adjusters at all, to change a tire. You can simply remove the shocks, and then lift the bike high enough to roll the wheel out from under. When the swingarm lowers that far, the tension comes off the belt anyway.

Zip-tie the brake assembly to the swingarm before you start, to make reassembly a little bit easier.

I've never bothered with the manual for checking belt deflection. It doesn't seem right to me to push pressure in one part of the belt and measure in another. My 8 to 10mm deflection is measured where I'm pushing the pressure, as close to the middle of the span as I can.

[mr500]

Yeah I was wondering about that when I seen your post on not touching the adj screws. I could not get the shock bolt(s) off with out removing all the plastic trim.

So I only removed the trim on the belt side and after I removed the pully, the tire slid out at an angle. Actually easier than my 1600 with the shaft.

Some have stated that the you can get around the trim removal and get to the top shock nut but damn if I could get in there without taking off the trunk and THEN the trim. Easy with the trunk gone hahah

Maybe next time ill try it again. I might get it I might not ….

Ok so you are measuring around the slotted window for your deflection in the belt.. Gotcha

[Peg]

A previous owner of my bike butchered the trim covering the top shock nuts - which I presume was so he could make the trunk more "quick release". A benefit for me is that I only have to take off 4 bolts to get each side of the trim off. I'd think though that if you took out those 4 bolts, there'd be enough flex in the trim to reach up under there with a spanner?

[mr500]

I tried. Was worried about cracking that great plastic chrome

Just took a lil more time and got her taken down. Ill try other ave next tire change.
All in all, it wasn't that bad. And like I said, the tire came out from under the bike a lot faster then my 1600 did.

[DragonLady58]

Yea, if your bike has lowering links on the rear, you don't even have to worry about your shocks, just unattach those and drop your swingarm, pull your wheel, with your jack and your done.
I just added a set to my bike, and the guy (I got the bike from) evidently didn't have a clue....had the belt tight enough to play Dixie on....
Anyway, once belt is set, its easier just to do the shocks, as per Peg, if no lowering links.