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Old 02-16-2011, 02:19 AM   #1
delivery58   delivery58 is offline
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U-Joint Replacement /Maint.

Just going through my file and Vulcan Nomad notes and thought it might help somebody. I had a driveshaft failure at 37,000 mile. Kaw. only sells the "complete" driveshaft w/ U-Joint. $$. I purchased a used shaft and installed a "new" U-joint.... finding it was the hard part. Many cross references later I found a U-joint through Western Power Sports (Boise, ID) 208-376-8400 part#31-41843 ( although I had to purchase it through my local Honda dealer. Don't forget the Moly-60 paste(grease).
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:56 AM   #2
ndbigfish   ndbigfish is offline
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U-Joint Replacement /Maint.

I keep a spare driveshaft with a new U-joint in the ready at all times. The new U-joint has a zerk to allow lubricating in place.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:04 AM   #3
AlabamaNomadRider   AlabamaNomadRider is offline
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U-Joint Replacement /Maint.

BigFish where did you get your spare driveshaft? Buy it new or used?
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:14 AM   #4
ndbigfish   ndbigfish is offline
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U-Joint Replacement /Maint.

I cross referenced driveshaft part numbers common to 1500s through the schematic and bought it used on *-bay. Don't pay over $40. I got the same U-joint recommended by Gadget through my local dealer. U-joint was approx. $25. Now I have a back-up ready for any situation.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:30 AM   #5
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U-Joint Replacement /Maint.

I did the same thing last year. I had the u joint give me problems, and on my drive shaft one of the tangs holding the u joint was cracked
A member of the Vulcan forum sent me one. I also got a used one from e-bay. The joint wasn't great in one of them and I got the Prarie ATV u joint (which is what that part number is for) and had it pressed into one. It however does not have a zerk fitting? If they do come with one, then please give me that part number so I can match it up with mine, which came from Gadget's site. I now have a spare that is fine and the rebuilt one if I ever need it. I was SHOCKED at the price of that assembly from Kawasaki and that they don't sell the u joint separately on a part that will eventually wear out :(" title="" border="0"/>
I wish I could find a spare PIN too, as it's quite easy to loose it on the garage floor when removing it ::) (even when your careful)

I really think Kawasaki in this department SUCKS that they do not provide individual parts for items like this but what do I know

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Old 02-16-2011, 09:34 AM   #6
AlabamaNomadRider   AlabamaNomadRider is offline
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U-Joint Replacement /Maint.

Thanks for the good information. Always good to be prepared.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:38 AM   #7
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U-Joint Replacement /Maint.

I had to replace my U joint early last season. I got the aftermarket version from Royal Distributing here in Ontario.
Its the same type thats mentioned in Gadgets Fixit sight.
The part number is listed in our Tech Board section here as well.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:42 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringadingh
I had to replace my U joint early last season. I got the aftermarket version from Royal Distributing here in Ontario.
Its the same type thats mentioned in Gadgets Fixit sight.
The part number is listed in our Tech Board section here as well.
Steve. do you remember the cost? I have a Royal Dist. store not far from me now, I was thinking of checking it out as I have another spare drive shaft and may replace that one with a new u joint depending on the price. Mine was from the Kawasaki dealer in Pickering, and let's just say they're not that savy with the parts technical knowledge....

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Old 02-16-2011, 11:06 AM   #9
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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Scott; The store here in Barrie has no idea either about their parts. I couldn't find the correct one there in stock. Another member here had one in his garage that he bought in the Brantford store I think. It was about $30.00 with tax if I remember correctly.
The replacement U joint has a slightly smaller diameter cross than the OEM part, but it should be more than adequate to do the job on our bikes.
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:47 AM   #10
delivery58   delivery58 is offline
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U-Joint Replacement /Maint.

The Western Power Sport ATV #31-41843 does have the zirk fitting. Also, used E-bay shafts are inexpensive (buy from a responsible seller). I also seem to remember that even the earlier Vulcans (1990's) look like they will work, I think Kawi has been using the same driveshaft for many years.
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:26 PM   #11
cocheese72   cocheese72 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delivery58
Just going through my file and Vulcan Nomad notes and thought it might help somebody. I had a driveshaft failure at 37,000 mile. Kaw. only sells the "complete" driveshaft w/ U-Joint. $$. I purchased a used shaft and installed a "new" U-joint.... finding it was the hard part. Many cross references later I found a U-joint through Western Power Sports (Boise, ID) 208-376-8400 part#31-41843 ( although I had to purchase it through my local Honda dealer. Don't forget the Moly-60 paste(grease).
How or where did it fail? Do you get on it hard allot? I thought the drive shaft was the durable option. 37k just seems like less miles than most belts last. Just curious, I hope mine last a hell of a lot more than that.
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:12 PM   #12
ve3hzz   ve3hzz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delivery58
The Western Power Sport ATV #31-41843 does have the zirk fitting. Also, used E-bay shafts are inexpensive (buy from a responsible seller). I also seem to remember that even the earlier Vulcans (1990's) look like they will work, I think Kawi has been using the same driveshaft for many years.
I may try that one, thanks.
As for the drive shaft working, well from 98-2004 yes they are the same. However there is a difference in the 05 on 1600 in the spline shaft assembly. It is a bit longer from what I remember. So be careful to get one for your model as there are differences.

I got the Kawasaki direct replacement part and it did not have the zerk fitting! I wasn't pleased at the time it did not and would have had them keep it, but I wanted my bike fixed to ride it or it would have been up all last summer :(" title="" border="0"/>
The zerk fitting one you mentioned wasn't available anywhere when I looked for it, or rather it would be a while (shipping it) AND the price and shipping were more. If RD has or can get them for what Steve said price wise, I may just go pick one up in a month or so to keep as a spare. Funny too that the Kawasaki part is for the Prarie ATV and I said to the guy at the Kawasaki dealer how stupid that was in an ATV (it's for the rear drive shaft) as it will fail quick with no way to grease it. He just shrugged his shoulders...NICE...There is ONE reason I wouldn't buy a Kawasaki ATV. I know there sealed, but come on!!! A u joint in a 4x4 or off road application where it goes through mud/sand etc etc and no way to grease it!!!! So it will fail QUICK!!!

They really do think were suckers I think!!!! :(" title="" border="0"/>
 
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:27 PM   #13
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U-Joint Replacement /Maint.

I got my joints from the local drive shaft shop. They were made for a Kawasaki 4 wheeler. Same parts. Real cheap.
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:32 AM   #14
macmac   macmac is offline
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U-Joint Replacement /Maint.

There IS a factory lube problem, that cause no grease to get in the joint on one plane.

No recall has been issured so far as I know and this affects apx 50% of Nomads.

It is one reason WHY the swing arm should be serviced each 7,500 miles or at least the first time 7,500 comes up.

Now the 1500 book says 7,500 miles.... The 1600 book has another distance i forget, maybe 15,000 which is BS. Same joint, should be same distance, and in cars that use these same style joints, since for ever 8,000 miles was the time to lube them if they had zerks.

That 'tang" is called a yoke in techie tawkin's.

Doing that first swing arm service is critical.

A lot of antiseize was never installed at the factory and just about every nut and bolt want it.

All but the axel.

Besides that the swing arm seals are used as thrust washers because some bone head bean counter saw a way to get cheap about things. You wear the back of the seals in each corner, and after you get to about 0.138 slop side to side it effects handling rather poorly.

By rights there should be 0.002 slop built in, but there is no lash adjustment, and probably a new bike on the show room floor already has excessive slop.

Some guys add zerks to the swingarm which is fine for lubing the swingarm between times, but that should not replace swingarm services, since the seals still wear and the diveshaft can't be lubed, nor the U Joint checked.

The splines are far more critical than the swingarm bolt, spacers and bearings.
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