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Old 01-24-2011, 01:03 AM   #31
AlabamaNomadRider   AlabamaNomadRider is offline
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Oil?

4,000 isn't bad at all. I sometimes just want to work on the bike and if I happen to have oil and filter I go ahead and change it if I am close to 3,000. Right now I have 5,000 on the car but a V6 engine doesn't work quite as hard as a V-Twin. I've got the oil and filter for the car just waiting for the temp to warm up some. Maybe tomorrow as it should hit 52.
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:06 AM   #32
wrongway   wrongway is offline
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Oil?

anymore the car is lucky to get oil and filter once a year or 10000 miles.
 
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:08 AM   #33
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Oil?

There was an article posted some time back about change intervals, Even with synths you need to change it earlier. The tolerances on the v-twins are loose enough that blow will contaminate the oil before it breaks down.

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Old 01-24-2011, 10:36 PM   #34
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Oil?


Quote:
Originally Posted by MAS Tequila
There was an article posted some time back about change intervals, Even with synths you need to change it earlier. The tolerances on the v-twins are loose enough that blow will contaminate the oil before it breaks down.

MT
The manufacturers need that article, both my Kawa's owners manuals are calling for 7500. My Honda called for that too, and Victory just raised theirs to 5000 on the new models.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:24 PM   #35
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Oil?

7500 seems a little to long to wait to change the oil



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Old 02-11-2011, 07:02 PM   #36
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Oil?

I have run both the T6 and Amsoil. Both are perfectly good. Even thou the T6 can be bought local and is cheaper, I am probably switching back to Amsoil after this change. Shifting seems to be a little smoother and just looking at my fuel, I lost 1 to 2 miles per gallon on the T6. Thats with 10000 miles on the Amsoil and 8000 on the T6.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:38 PM   #37
AlabamaNomadRider   AlabamaNomadRider is offline
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Oil?

Joel which weight oil did you use with the Amsoil?
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:52 PM   #38
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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Oil?

If I was using a synthetic oil I would go 7500 miles or more before changes, but I wouldn't do it with a dino oil. 3000 miles is max for me.
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:15 AM   #39
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Oil?

These resources are some of the best and I've noticed they are posted on many MC boards:
www.motorcycleinfo.calsci.com and www.bobistheoilguy.com

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Old 02-12-2011, 02:16 AM   #40
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Oil?

Here's what I use:



Inexpensive and available at Walmart so you can easily find it when you're on the road. The photo above was taken in Reno, NV.

As far as interval, I change the oil and filter (Kawi OEM) when shifting gets crunchy.
 
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Old 02-12-2011, 11:15 AM   #41
waterman   waterman is offline
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Oil?


Quote:
Originally Posted by AlabamaNomadRider
Joel which weight oil did you use with the Amsoil?
For our weather, 10-40 is just fine.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:17 PM   #42
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Oil?


Quote:
Originally Posted by nomad38028
Guys I've been reading the forums. It appears the opinions on oil brand and weight are as varied as your favorite brand of beer.

That said, I used Kawasaki oil the first and second change. A friend of mine gave me two cases of Honda oil 10-40, that he won in an open house. He rides a Goldwing and has plenty. I plan on using the Honda oil in the future until the supply runs out.

My understanding motorcycle oil from any major oil manufacturer is fine. As long as it's changed regularly and kept full. The dealer warned me of using synthetic oil for fear it may cause the clutch to slip.

I'd love to hear everybody's input on this.
I agree with everything in your post. I'd do exactly the same thing.

I ran Shell Rotella-T 5W-40 full synthetic in my Suzuki Intruder 1500 and plan to use the same eventually in my 2008 Nomad.

When I picked up the Nomad new from the dealer, they had a sale on Yamalube, so I bought a jug. Their service department had drums of Honda GN-4 oil that they used in all the metric bike brands.

A year ago, I found Castrol MC oil at an amazing sale price at an auto parts store and bought everything they had in staock, so I'm good on oil for a while. I also picked up a few Bosch filters for the Nomad on sale at the same place.

I'm with you regarding oil. Use any good quality motorcycle oil and change it regularly. Once my supply of Castrol gets low, I'll probably move to the Rotella-T6, but I will not put automotive oil in a wet clutch motorcycle if it contains friction modifiers.

There are myths and legends about synthetic oil that are mainly based on automotive applications many years ago. Todays engines are made for it.
 
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:47 PM   #43
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Oil?


Quote:
Originally Posted by bullman
Do I need a special oil filter, or can I use a standard filter?
If your bike is a 2003 model, check to see if it has had the oil filter attachment recall done. If it has, it will have a metal filter enclosure that screws on over a paper filter element (as opposed to the normal one piece throw away you normally buy). If it was one of the recalled models, you will have to buy the paper filter from Kawasaki.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:24 PM   #44
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Oil?


Quote:
Originally Posted by MAS Tequila
There was an article posted some time back about change intervals, Even with synths you need to change it earlier. The tolerances on the v-twins are loose enough that blow will contaminate the oil before it breaks down.

MT
I'm wondering if the article stated air cooled or liquid cooled or v twins in general. The reason I ask this is, often air cooled engines are designed with greater tolerances due to the larger heat range they operate in and the corresponding greater expansion of engine components compared to the more constant heat range of a liquid cooled engine.
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:21 PM   #45
opfor2   opfor2 is offline
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Oil?

I use the dyno Shell Rotella T motor oil in my 1600 Nomad Vulcan and so far it works well.
 
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