10w40 too thin imho

[shine]

i know the tolerences in our motors are tighter than the pushrod engines that normaly call for a 20w50. also, that our scoots are water cooled. i have a 07' 1600 nomad. i also know that it is normal for oils to shear, especialy since ours does double duty, lubing the transmission as well. right now, i am in fact, running the mobil 1 racing 4t 10w40. even though the synthetics are more stable against shearing than the petroleum based oils, they do shear as well. my owners manual states that 10w40 is prefered at all temps. my point is...even if the oil only shears a bit, which i think would be likely, heavy bike, often 2 up, fully loaded bags, un aero dynamic w/ the windshield, etc..it would then be a ? 10w35? 10w30? or worse? i think a good stout 15w40 or a 20w50 would leave a margin of error or safety. it could shear a bit or even a grade and still be within the thickness needed to protect our trannys and mills.. not to start a "brand" or syn vs dino war, i just know that other big twins have a thick oil for the motor, a stout, separate, usualy 80w90 gear oil for the transmission, and a thinner, 10w40 for the chain case. i am a poor man, lol, and i just want to make sure that i am doing the best i can for my nomad. i would be willing to trade a mile or two per gallon using a thicker oil that could shear a bit and still be protecting my motor. opinions? sorry i havn't been as much involved instead of lurking, but my home is a wreck and have to move completely out by this thurs..so i'm cramming it in now! i hope i havn't put anybody to sleep! ::) :-/

[AlabamaNomadRider]

MacMac one of our most knowledgeable members highly recommends not to use 20W-50. I am now using the Shell Rotella 5W-40 T6 which is full synthetic. It is okay to use the 5W. You just don't need to go to anything higher than 40. I did a lot of oil research before switching from Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 full synthetic to the Rotella. With the tight tolerances it isn't recommended to use the thicker oil. It could possibly not lubricate as it should and then you might be facing engine trouble. Just my thought. Your choice but if Mac says not to use 20W-50 then I put my trust in him and will not do it.

[MAS Tequila]

This isn't very scientific, but mine actually runs quieter with 20w50 than with the 10w40.

By quieter I mean that there is less top end ticking and less of the clutch noise.

MT

[macmac]

If you do that the lifters will starve for oil, the bike will run ratty, and you won't like it, as the lifters take a hard pounding mostly collapsed. Add to that we don't get the heat like air / oil cooled engines do you will loose lubrication to the rings and the bore walls.

I run Mobil 1 10w 40 full syn and blend it with a a part of one to thin that. That part of one depends on the basic weather I plan to ride the next 3,000 miles in. I hold back apx 1/2 qt and add the rest in a thinner viscosity, and I live in New Hampshire.

Full of 10W 40 is ok if your not real fussy.

I hate these oil threads as MAS is a excellent tech too.

My engine runs very quiet over all.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

I used 20W-50 in one oil change until I did some research and read about the tight tolerances and could cause engine damage. Mine did seem to run quieter and shifted better. Guess I just got a little nervous after reading the report. I know in one thread Mac stated we should never run 20W-50 in the Nomad.

[duneseven]

I ran the mobile one full synthetic 20/50 and had noise @ every statr up from the lifters. I switched to the kawi synthetic a different weight and it disapeared

[dougster]

I ran 20W50 for part of one season, and it seemed to run noisier than when I ran the Mobil 1. The book says you can use the 20W50, but it seems that not all Nomads like it. Mine was one of them.

[shine]

thanks for the inputs. seems like the 10w40 mobil 1 racing 4t is the way to stay then. maybe the 50 is too high on the top because of the tolerences. i'm not going to question any way more knowledgeable members, and i appreciate the answers guys. ok..now, i heard quaker state has wax in it ,and it clogged my grandfathers studebaker motor up. i was wondering if...j/k!!!!!!

[snarleybill08]

Originally Posted by shine

thanks for the inputs. seems like the 10w40 mobil 1 racing 4t is the way to stay then. maybe the 50 is too high on the top because of the tolerences. i'm not going to question any way more knowledgeable members, and i appreciate the answers guys. ok..now, i heard quaker state has wax in it ,and it clogged my grandfathers studebaker motor up. i was wondering if...j/k!!!!!!

stick with what macmac says. he's right on. most petroleum base oils have some wax in them. thats why synthetics are prefered. the cheaper the grade of oil the more wax you get. quaker state is a premium grade oil. it is as good as any of the other premium oils. don't listen to old wives tales. use a premium oil of the recommended viscosity and type, and you won't ever have a problem.

[macmac]

QS had a big problem in the middlin 70's and killed a lot of engines, but they got around that problem a long time ago.

Besides viscosity the things to look for are no "EC" lables! No Energy Conserving, unless tossin in expensive new clutch plates isn't any problem.

Add no additives to oil, except for Lucas oil additives and if you do only 1/2 pint at a oil change. It would be best to do that only if you have a hard to get at seal, such as the inner water pump oil seal. I am not sure exactly what's in Lucas either, so don't do it untill it's last ditch.

I run Mobil 1 full syn in both the engine and the rear finals like it's a religion. I change both at engine oil change times, and always use a new engine oil filter. For them I use WIX or NAPA Gold only. These are the very same filters with different branding, made by WIX.

In the rear gear set I use about b6 oz of gear oil, and not up to the amount listed in the book.

Anyone who add book spec ends up with blown seals. What most of us do is set the side stand on a flat 2x4, leaving the bike leaned over a little, and get the right amount. The right amount won't build up psi, or drown seals. The ring gear just needs to pick up oil and slings it all over the place in that case. If you woory about the oil level there not being at book spec that would be a good place to stick the lucas gear oil modifier.

I read a review from a non-beliver for Lucas, and his reporting was flawed. He ran Lucas in a oil sump with a plexiglass wondow, and left the sump pick up in a low oil level so the pump was not totally submerged and suck air. Then when the oil frothed up bad, he stated this wasn't good.

Now I would agree that isn't good, but no real world proper oil level is at a point where it can suck air.

I became most familar with Lucas with a old 1986 Dodge Van I bought in Dec 05. That van had 15,500 miles on it! I assume it has oem engine seals, and the rear main was somewhat dried out from lack of use, heat and age. (southern vehical and no rust)

I had assumed that 15,500 meant 115,500 miles since the OD can't count good

But I was on the road in the first place from day 1 with that van. I needed a rolling bed room and i was in winter in Arkansas. With that van I use Shell Rotilla dino oil, and add a qt as lucas, and that seal no longer drips a drop.

The why is Lucas bridges the gaps, as it is very viscose. So far as I know all other addivites add seal eatting chemicals, which work a while and then ever seal there is fails at once.

Other reasons seals fail beside normal wear and tear, and or shrinking is the engine breather systems geting too clogged up to breath well. A clogged engine breather won't allow the crankcase to vent in and out, and end up causing internal psi no seal can over come.

Me: I am Mac, but most any sites want more than 3 letters. One of you scoundrels branded me Mr Maple Man LOL I forget who that was...

[ponch]

I used to run Mobil 1 10w-40 and Rotella T6. As far as quietness, the Mobil 1 seemed quieter and also seemed to hold up better, but I guess it's subjective. IIRC, the manual calls for 10w-40. Using that weight should be okey dokey. I will also add that shearing is a bigger deal with engines that share the oil with the transmission and clutch, which the Nomad does. Still, you should be able to get 4-5K miles out of Mobil 1.

[blowndodge]

I run Mobil Turbo Diesel 15-40 fully synthetic and it seems to run the quietest. I ran "this" version because it had more additives that are beneficial than standard Mobil 1...

I may try Shell rotella T6 next change to see if I notice any type of difference..

[ponch]

Originally Posted by Blowndodge "Darksider"

I run Mobil Turbo Diesel 15-40 fully synthetic and it seems to run the quietest. I ran "this" version because it had more additives that are beneficial than standard Mobil 1...

I may try Shell rotella T6 next change to see if I notice any type of difference..

I used the motorcycle Mobil 1. I think the mobil diesel is called Delvac?

[shine]

was just kidding about the quakerstate guys...hence the "j/k" at the end of my post..lol i run it in my wifes santa fe and my van... from what i have seen, it seems like waxes are now removed, once cost prohibitive, and the big companies sell it to the cosmetic industry.

[macmac]

Oh I got a buddy on here with a santa fe , and I thought he had a train!