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Old 10-06-2011, 07:42 PM   #46
kingpin   kingpin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utah motorcyclist View Post
i was measuring the diameter.
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:55 PM   #47
jonsamson   jonsamson is offline
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No internet yesterday for an update. To gauge the hole I tried a M4 too small. I tried a M5, tighter but I could wiggle it in, 1/4 too big. I got a M6, umm that feels good. I used an M6x20 hex head bolt (about 1" threads) and used a tap only. I didn't want to use a drill even though I have a right angle drill. I wanted to keep it straight and keep the chips from flying into the motor.

I bought a tap, and started until straight, then back out and like Mac a little grease to collect, few turns back out clean, again. I went in about 1 1/4 deep. Then I fit the screw, Umm, feels loose, but it is getting the threads. I will keep going. Swap it out with grease on q-tip. Ok, then some epoxy high heat engine block epoxy stuff from the auto store. Coat the interior threads. Fitted a neoprene washer, then a fiber washer to seal the rim, coated the threads with more epoxy stuff, then turn in. It tightens right down. Let it set to cure about 20 hours or so.

I get home try it out. Start it up runs, whew. I let it sit and idle, check no leaks. Good so far, I let it idle longer clean up my garage, etc, get my jacket, get my new MC tags and while putting it on, I smell it. No way, hot oil. Ummm that’s ok Jon, just burn off from the previous leak. Ok, then.

Get my gloves, get my jacket, get my helmet, open and close the right saddle bag, and then, dam, no way, this is a joke. This can’t be happening. Oil is oozing out the rear right spark plug. Un believable.

I hope this is a coincident, I hope this is easy to solve, I hope I can’t find my gun and see if a 9mm will fix this bike. Dang. Now what? Why would oil be oozing out of the spark plug chamber? No it is not cut through by the chain.

Did putting that plug in that hole no cause the oil to force out of the little vent hole in the spark plug chamber? What is that hole there for anyway.

I would expect this from another brand, but not this bike.
 
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:09 PM   #48
blowndodge   blowndodge is offline
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remember when I said you might have a crankcase breather issue? If your CC breather is blocked you blow oil out of any possible orifice and too much pressure is building inside the engine!
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:09 PM   #49
jonsamson   jonsamson is offline
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I don't remember that. Ok, then were do I go next. Where is the crankcase breather at? and how would I clear it?
 
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Old 10-06-2011, 10:31 PM   #50
macmac   macmac is offline
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I am un-aware of any little vent in a plug tube. Are you sure the plug tube isn't chained up?

The engine breather is another problem I wasn't aware of. It leaves the engine at the front left of the engine, and if it's a stock rubber tubbing goes up pretty straight, crosses over cly 1 and turns down to end at the right side dog bowl backing plate. There it is the largest rubber tubbing on the backing plate.

I suggest pulling the backing plate end off and blowing in the tube hard, with the oil filler cap off. Get someone else to listen.

Next put the filler cap on, and leave the rubber tubing off. Start the engine and see if it draws air in and huffs air out. Might wanna clean that rubber tubing before yu put yer lips on it. This is no joke either.

How oil switched places is past understanding. There should be no possible psi there.

That vent thing has ne buggered. How long was the bolt? Since several of us gauged 1/2" that depth should be fine in a bolt.

Don't shoot the bike. It's just a machine a man made. You can fix it.
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Old 10-06-2011, 10:54 PM   #51
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If you remove your front left plug and your rear right plug shine a light in there you will see a vent hole. That has been there since I bought it new. It is pictured in gadges site also when discussing the cam chain thing.

I have removed my spark plug tubes and no the chain has not rubbed through.

I found the breather tube, took it off the backer plate, un screwed the filler cap and blew. Felt no restrictions. I then put the cap back on started and the motor was rev up slow down, rev up slow down, I assum that is normal as I had the breather tube and air boxes off. Yes air is coming and going out of the tube. Seems to be clog free to me.

The bolt threads is 1", M6x20 bolt. (I went 1" since everyone but Jard was about 2". I marked my tap before cutting the threads and went 1 1/4" longer so the bolt would bottom out.
 
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Old 10-06-2011, 10:59 PM   #52
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This only happens when the bike is warmed up. To the point of when the fan turns on. I would think a pressure issue would start right off as pressure builds quickly in the motor, also why is not running rough, stalling due to valves not closing. Too much pressure would cause eventually the motor to stall or slow down. Like putting a apple in the tail pipe. That isn't happening.

The leaks never start exiting until it was all warmed up, then just gradually started flowing out. Like warming a pot of water, as it gots hotter is swells and then will boil over the pot.

Pressure in the motor would it build up slowly? Why only when the bike is warmed up? Reving the motor has no affect on more or less the flow remains the same. Pressure would increase with the motor revs and I would think show faster, or flow faster, not the case.
 
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:01 PM   #53
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I looked at this and see no plug tubes. Can you post a link?
http://www.gadgetjq.com/cc_tensioner.htm
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:46 PM   #54
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OK try this. lightly unscrew your oil fill chrome cap enough so that you know crankcase pressure can vent out there. Go back and warm up your nomad and see if it's blowing out your trouble areas!! If it stops you have something building pressure in your crankcase and it's finding the path of least resistance taking some oil with it.
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Old 10-07-2011, 01:10 AM   #55
jonsamson   jonsamson is offline
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After writing my last post, I realized what I said. Like bowling water can boil over a pot if there is too much water in the pot. Water expands with heat. Umm, I bet oil does also, so if it is only happening when it warms up, the oil is expanding and leaking out. But surely I don’t have that much oil in there. I just went to Wal-Mart, bought a container a 5 quart container. Surely that would be big enough. Good thing I didn't get a 4 quart.

I can't believe all of this seems to have come from nearly 5 quarts of oil. I feel so stupid, was so mad at Kawasaki.

I put in 2 quarts, warmed it up, no leaks. I put in another 1/2 quart still no leak. My only guess is that after the last oil change I didn't have the bike on a 2x4 under the kickstand and I kept filling. I don't remember, but I am the only that touches that bike for oil changes so I had to have done it.

So I learned a lot about my bike, and learned the next time anyone says they have an oil leak. Advice drain the oil, put in 1 quart less than it calls for and try it again.

It never leaked out of the breather, only behind the cylinder and then spark plug

Mac I can't find the internet picture I saw. I will remove my plug and tube again to take pictures of all the sides. So everyone can see what they look like up close and try to get a picture of that vent hole. The hole is inside past the tube, not in the tube so it can’t be a chain cut through.

2 weeks working on this and it is over too much oil.
 
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Old 10-07-2011, 04:01 AM   #56
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Owner manual calls for 3.3 quart with an oil filter change.
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:13 AM   #57
macmac   macmac is offline
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Dam! Your lucky you didn't break hard parts with the oil level that much too high.

This is oil and not 3.3 qts of oil and 2 qts of gasoline right?

I will still want that pic. I still think a plug you can't buy for love ot money somehow went missing.

5qts of liquides is a pretty full case. Never let that happen again, as it can and will drown engine seals. Once oil passes a seal it will leak untill you do one of two things.

Replace the seal with a new one, or remove, clean and install the old seal again.

When oil is cold you want to level the bike right /left, and fore/aft and have the oil level midway between full and low.

When oil heats it does expand rather a lot. So does gas, diesel and lamp oil aka K-1.

I use oil lamps made by Aladin (antiques). These hold 1`qt of K-1. I have to take care to leave 1/2" of air space when I fill with cold K-1, as when the lamps run and the burner heats the fuel in the fonts, the K-1 will rise and seep out all over the place and make a big stinky mess. That's a lot of expansion at a relitively low heat, for 1 qt.
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Old 10-07-2011, 02:13 PM   #58
jonsamson   jonsamson is offline
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Still leaking out of the plug. I pulled the tube out again. O ring seal is gone again in the part that seals against where the spark plug goes. I have O rings on order supposed to be here today sometime.

Here are pictures of insdie the spark plug.
Pict 1 is of the Rear right plug
Pict 2 is with the plug removed. You can see the vent hole. This is past the Tube right next to where the neck of the plug seals against the shoulder of the spark plug hole for the threads.
Pict 3 is with the tube removed, the vent hole is past the tube.
Pict 4 is of the Spark Plug tube itself.




Attached Images
File Type: jpg right rear spark plug.jpg (46.7 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg No spark plug.JPG (96.6 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Inside with Tube removed.JPG (88.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Spark Plug tube 1.JPG (85.7 KB, 6 views)
 
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:44 PM   #59
macmac   macmac is offline
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Nice pics man. You a camera pro? I had no idea there was a little hole there, and I can only guess it's a drain hole of oil if the chain eats the tube.

I have no idea if that is correct info or not, as it is a wild guess.
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:55 PM   #60
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They guys that have worn the tube through say oil starts running down the cylinder. Im not sure what that small hole would br for either.
 
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