Main to Fairing Wiring/Electrical?

Monkeyman · 12-18-2011, 06:46 AM

PART 1 (The Connectors)

I'll have a ton of wires to run from the main wiring harness on the bike to the fairing. At least 11 wires I've counted so far, not including any future gauges (tach, volts, temp, ?) or switches for various lights, 4 ways and other misc doo dads. I need a good connector for all these wires in case I ever need to remove the fairing. (30 bullet connectors just won't do.) It needs to be fairly weatherproof although I'll have it tucked inside the fairing so it shouldn't rain directly on it. (The wiring harness will be run through the middle of the main frame-to-fairing bracket.) I've thought about a few 4 pin trailer connectors but it would be nice to have just 1 connector (or possibly 2 if I ran all the ground wires together).

Here are the wires I need so far. (This isn't counting any wiring for gauges.)

Headlights - 2 (power/ground)
Turn Signals - 6? (looks like 3 to each one although the HD turn signals I have only have 2 wires...dunno about this)
Stereo/speakers - 3 (power/switched power/common ground for stereo and speakers)

I'll probably add a few extra lights to the fairing for better visibility but I can probably jump off of the turn signal wiring.

If I ran all the ground wires from the fairing (4 assuming each set of turn signal wires has 1 ground) to one connector, I could run all of those back to the negative terminal on the battery so there's 1 4 pin connector right there. That would leave 7 power wires. Not all of them have to go back to the battery as the turn signals and switched power (for the stereo) would come from the wiring bundle that used to be in the headlight bucket.

By the time I'm done, I figure about 30 wires from the bike to the fairing. I don't mind using multiple connectors but it would be good (and tidy) to be able to only have 3 or 4 (at the most) connectors.

One more thought. Would it be better if I just ran one large gauge wire from the battery to the fairing (for everything except turn signals and switched power) then added a fuse block inside the fairing? This would eliminate a bunch of connections to the battery as well as cleaning up the wiring in general. What gauge wire would I need? 0, 2, 4 gauge? 10-12 gauge? Would something even smaller work?

Any suggestions?

PART 2 (Switches)

I figure if I have a fairing, I might as well mount any extra switches in the fairing. They'll be grouped together and they should look like they belong there (as opposed to looking added on if I mount them on the bars). They'll be very exposed to the elements so they need to be waterproof. I'd like something a bit more unique than the standard, generic, rubber covered switches but I can't see spending hundreds of dollars just in switches. So far, I need switches for: 4 ways, garage door opener (momentary), driving lights, and probably a couple more for future projects (LEDs?, etc).

________________________________

Sorry for the book but I should have most of the parts I need to get started on my fairing project here by next weekend which is when I'll probably remove the tank. I'd like to start on the wiring while I have everything apart. This WILL be done correctly so it'll take a bit of time.

Any help, links or search suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

**krash** · 12-18-2011, 08:06 AM

Not sure what gage wire you need but one of these may work with minor surgery. Should be able to look at one a local computer shop or Radio Shack.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812198007

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812198008

**ringadingh** · 12-18-2011, 08:09 AM

I use trailer plugs as connectors for wiring in the fairing. I also mounted a fuse panel in there as well that was connected from the battery via a relay so that it was switched with the ignition key. There is a diagram in the Tech section that explains how to connect a relay.

Jackag · 12-18-2011, 09:56 AM

You might try going to your local welding supply and get a matching set of 14 pin connectors (miller),they require no soldering, and weather doesn't bother them.

Monkeyman · 12-18-2011, 10:12 AM

Ok, so +1 for trailer plugs and fuse panel. Never thought about a welding supply outfit. No idea what's around here, but Google is my friend.

petenomad · 12-18-2011, 12:37 PM

Found this after I had already bought mine so I its not something I have actually used, but it has many nice features. Has the relay built in and lets you select switched or unswitched power per circuit - being careful to watch the limits. Ground bus to connect all grounds together and run a single ground back to the battery/frame.

http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

**ringadingh** · 12-18-2011, 12:41 PM

Thats a neat panel, it would make it neat and easy to make all your connections.

**ringadingh** · 12-18-2011, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krash

Not sure what gage wire you need but one of these may work with minor surgery. Should be able to look at one a local computer shop or Radio Shack.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812198007

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812198008

Those should work well also, it doesn't say what gauge the wires are, but Id assume if its 16 ga or heavier it should be ok.

Jackag · 12-18-2011, 03:20 PM

If you need the miller part numbers, send me a note and I will look them up for you at work tomorrow.

12-18-2011, 06:46 AM	#1
Monkeyman Top Contributor Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Wilkesboro, NC Posts: 6,289	Main to Fairing Wiring/Electrical? PART 1 (The Connectors) I'll have a ton of wires to run from the main wiring harness on the bike to the fairing. At least 11 wires I've counted so far, not including any future gauges (tach, volts, temp, ?) or switches for various lights, 4 ways and other misc doo dads. I need a good connector for all these wires in case I ever need to remove the fairing. (30 bullet connectors just won't do.) It needs to be fairly weatherproof although I'll have it tucked inside the fairing so it shouldn't rain directly on it. (The wiring harness will be run through the middle of the main frame-to-fairing bracket.) I've thought about a few 4 pin trailer connectors but it would be nice to have just 1 connector (or possibly 2 if I ran all the ground wires together). Here are the wires I need so far. (This isn't counting any wiring for gauges.) Headlights - 2 (power/ground) Turn Signals - 6? (looks like 3 to each one although the HD turn signals I have only have 2 wires...dunno about this) Stereo/speakers - 3 (power/switched power/common ground for stereo and speakers) I'll probably add a few extra lights to the fairing for better visibility but I can probably jump off of the turn signal wiring. If I ran all the ground wires from the fairing (4 assuming each set of turn signal wires has 1 ground) to one connector, I could run all of those back to the negative terminal on the battery so there's 1 4 pin connector right there. That would leave 7 power wires. Not all of them have to go back to the battery as the turn signals and switched power (for the stereo) would come from the wiring bundle that used to be in the headlight bucket. By the time I'm done, I figure about 30 wires from the bike to the fairing. I don't mind using multiple connectors but it would be good (and tidy) to be able to only have 3 or 4 (at the most) connectors. One more thought. Would it be better if I just ran one large gauge wire from the battery to the fairing (for everything except turn signals and switched power) then added a fuse block inside the fairing? This would eliminate a bunch of connections to the battery as well as cleaning up the wiring in general. What gauge wire would I need? 0, 2, 4 gauge? 10-12 gauge? Would something even smaller work? Any suggestions? PART 2 (Switches) I figure if I have a fairing, I might as well mount any extra switches in the fairing. They'll be grouped together and they should look like they belong there (as opposed to looking added on if I mount them on the bars). They'll be very exposed to the elements so they need to be waterproof. I'd like something a bit more unique than the standard, generic, rubber covered switches but I can't see spending hundreds of dollars just in switches. So far, I need switches for: 4 ways, garage door opener (momentary), driving lights, and probably a couple more for future projects (LEDs?, etc). ________________________________ Sorry for the book but I should have most of the parts I need to get started on my fairing project here by next weekend which is when I'll probably remove the tank. I'd like to start on the wiring while I have everything apart. This WILL be done correctly so it'll take a bit of time. Any help, links or search suggestions would be greatly appreciated. __________________ Christopher "Monkeyman" Gray ---------------------------- Widows Sons "Overseers" Patriot Guard Rider USArmy 1987-1990 2021 Can Am Spyder RT 2018 Can Am Spyder RT Limited - SOLD 2014 Nomad - SOLD 2012 Victory Vision - SOLD 2007 Black Nomad - SOLD VMC #9367 VBA #1860 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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12-18-2011, 08:06 AM	#2
krash Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Sutton West Virginia Posts: 430	Not sure what gage wire you need but one of these may work with minor surgery. Should be able to look at one a local computer shop or Radio Shack. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812198007 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812198008 __________________ Rick (Krash) Kestner Sutton, West Virginia VBA #01448 2008 Metallic Ocean Blue / Neutron Silver *the coolest colors* Last edited by krash; 12-18-2011 at 08:09 AM.
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12-18-2011, 08:09 AM	#3
ringadingh Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada Posts: 35,387	I use trailer plugs as connectors for wiring in the fairing. I also mounted a fuse panel in there as well that was connected from the battery via a relay so that it was switched with the ignition key. There is a diagram in the Tech section that explains how to connect a relay. __________________ 2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951
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12-18-2011, 10:12 AM	#5
Monkeyman Top Contributor Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Wilkesboro, NC Posts: 6,289	Ok, so +1 for trailer plugs and fuse panel. Never thought about a welding supply outfit. No idea what's around here, but Google is my friend. __________________ Christopher "Monkeyman" Gray ---------------------------- Widows Sons "Overseers" Patriot Guard Rider USArmy 1987-1990 2021 Can Am Spyder RT 2018 Can Am Spyder RT Limited - SOLD 2014 Nomad - SOLD 2012 Victory Vision - SOLD 2007 Black Nomad - SOLD VMC #9367 VBA #1860 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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12-18-2011, 12:37 PM	#6
petenomad Sr. Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Overland Park, KS Posts: 1,135	Found this after I had already bought mine so I its not something I have actually used, but it has many nice features. Has the relay built in and lets you select switched or unswitched power per circuit - being careful to watch the limits. Ground bus to connect all grounds together and run a single ground back to the battery/frame. http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ __________________ Glenn petenomad Peterman 2016 BMW R1200RT 2012 Candy Arabian Red Concours - Traded at 23000 miles 2008 Red/Black Nomad - Traded at 29500 miles
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12-18-2011, 09:56 AM	#4
Jackag Jr. Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Springfield, Or Posts: 26	You might try going to your local welding supply and get a matching set of 14 pin connectors (miller),they require no soldering, and weather doesn't bother them.
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12-18-2011, 12:41 PM	#7
ringadingh Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada Posts: 35,387	Thats a neat panel, it would make it neat and easy to make all your connections. __________________ 2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951
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12-18-2011, 03:20 PM	#9
Jackag Jr. Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Springfield, Or Posts: 26	If you need the miller part numbers, send me a note and I will look them up for you at work tomorrow.
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