Head Cam Plug Oil Leak

[sonny]

There have been several post about an oil leak in the round plug in the head half covered by the chrome valve cover. Well I've got one. I've been looking at it and haven't figured out how to be sure I get a sealant plumb to the top of the plug with any certainty that it is sealed. But the chrome valve cover sounds like it is made of plastic and is shaped like a double ridge barn roof. I'm thinking I could cut, if it's plastic, the cover a little larger than the plug as high as the lower ridge. That would give me space to insure that the sealant gets to every place it needs to be. Aside from the change in appearence, can any one think of any problems that this may cause for the engine? Since I am truely mechanically declined and the budget won't allow haveing some one pull the motor, I'm looking for a solution that I can do myself. I've looked at the Service Manual that Trip posted and it looks like it is just a plug that is not attached to any thing and it recommends a sealant. There ain't a bunch of info in the book about that flippin' little plug. I'm wondering if I cut the cover, can I just replace the plug and how tuff that might be. Any ideas or info please.
Thakns for your time

[Bamabrat]

don't cut yet. try to seal it first. worst case, you don't, and you get back to square one and then look at off the wall options (like cutting). Use a q-tip, lie on your back, try permatex (black), silicone, or JB Weld. Just make sure you let it set for half a day (i let it set for a day) before cranking. Before you try, use some engine degreaser to remove any traces of oil. Rough up the edges of the plug and the aluminum before trying to seal it. I'm going to retry this weekend using some of these tricks (rough up, use silicone and degreaser). I've gotta remove my tank and re-seal the water pipe in that same rear cylinder anyway (small coolant leak). might as well 'ringading' both of them up with silicone at the same time :-)

[zoom45]

Sonny, mine did the same. I cleaned it good with some spray brake cleaner then spread some black RTV silicone over the plug with a razor blade. It held for a while then started leaking again. I finally pulled the motor out and installed new plugs and rocker cover gaskets. No leaks now. You don't want to try and cut it. It's thicker than you think. It's hard to get under the chrome cover to seal it but you can do it.

Zoom45

[ringadingh]

I certainly wouldn't cut anything. give it a real thorough cleaning in the cam plug area and work in the Permatex, it does work most times, but removing all traces of oil around the cam plug is very important.

[Peg]

You shouldn't need to cut. I changed my high mileage Nomad over to synthetic quite late in life... which seems to bring on the cam plug leak fairly quickly as others have found.

Twice I cleaned it out as best as I could, and tried to pack that black permatex in there, and twice it began weeping slightly again after a few weeks.

So the last time I had to do it, I cleaned up the area once again as best I could, scraping off all the old permatex etc... then cut a couple of small squares of polycarbonate sheeting I had lying around the place after I made my own lowers. I cut the squares so that they were a little larger than the cam plugs, but I could fit them up under the overhanging chrome cover. Then I just slopped a whole lot of permatex all over the back, pushed them into place over the cam plug, let them go off for an hour or two, and then applied a little pressure for another 24 hours.

Not even the slightest leak ever since, and the permatex backed polycarbonate looks like it belongs there, if you even notice it at all.

I wouldn't think you need to use polycarbonate... any flat material that's moderately heat resistant (and polycarbonate certainly isn't that) would probably do the job.

[sonny]

Thanks for the info ya'll. I reckon I'll leave the roto-zip alone. But Paul kinda got me to wonderir timeng if going back to Dino oil would make a difference?
Thanks for you

[Duffer]

Originally Posted by sonny

Thanks for the info ya'll. I reckon I'll leave the roto-zip alone. But Paul kinda got me to wonderir timeng if going back to Dino oil would make a difference?
Thanks for you

Chances are that the synthetic oil actually cleaned the engine and seals of some sludge and gunk from the dino oil and exposed an already damaged seal. This is due to the qualities of the synthetic. When this happens (the leak), it usually has nothing to do with the synthetic, but it has actually unmasked a problem with the seals that already existed.

Going back to dino may slow or stop the leak, but it could simply be returning your engine to a dirtier operating environment and exposing it to more substantial long term damage.

Synthetic oils are far superior to dino and have proven their worth over many years. Stick with the better quality oil and deal with the underlying problem as best you can.

[Silent Sam]

Well..with the inventing of "The Smog Device"....as opposed to the old fashioned "Crank Case Breather Tube"

We all now have internal crankcase pressures...the existing tech, is supose to suck all that crank-vapors into the induction/exhaust/catelist..and clean the air of major portions of "pollution"....so Now Ya Got LEAKS caused by internal pressure build-up ! (Because ANY Government Designed -Any Thing, ... Wont Work Right)

A possible way your cam-seals might be persuaded to stop seeping...is to purchase a small "crankcase breather"...

My 2002 Nomad was seeping oil, at the rear cam-plug,..Above, in front of, the exhaust port.. so I ordered a $16 chrome,mini breather..and using a "T" fitting I used some clear fuel line (to be able to see any "blow by") and hooked it into the front crankcase breather hose, on the front engine case (down at the base of the front cyl) then I mounted the cute little chrome breather on a handy dandy bolt over on the frame, above the shifting lever

The seeping oil stopped ! ...12,000 miles ago !

ADDENDUM 1-15-2014 ..DING-DANG-IT..I just discovered my rear cam plug oil seep is "Active" Again !..tho very slight ! ?..I got about 15,000 miles of seep-free riding with the crankcase-breather..(perhaps I have a cam-chain,plug-well wear through)

[slots]

Sam....

Sounds like a smart move on your part. Wonder if you could post more info about the "chrome, mini-breather"....it's source or a link if possible. I'd like to follow your example and have not yet located a breather similar to your description.

Thanks in advance.

Slots

[minst7877]

Put mini crankcase breather into the E-bay search and you will get a lot of variations. Know what size tubing you want to use when you do it.

DC

[MAS Tequila]

If you cut it you still can't replace the cam plug. The head has to come off. The plug has a raised edge that fits into the two head pieces. There is NO way to replace it without removing the engine from the bike.

MT

[Silent Sam]

Here's The One I Bought...(Amazon.com) BIKER CHOICE Die Cast Mount,
CRANKCASE BREATHER-Replacement
FILTER 74065A

...$10 - $13 plus shipping

[wheelie]

I have the same leak. Sounds like I need to clean it really good pack the area whit black RTV and put on a crank case breather. Than I'll have to do something with the side cover since the T6 has runined the finish on it and the tank at the rear mount tab.

[minst7877]

Originally Posted by wheelie

I have the same leak. Sounds like I need to clean it really good pack the area whit black RTV and put on a crank case breather. Than I'll have to do something with the side cover since the T6 has runined the finish on it and the tank at the rear mount tab.

Don't understand why T6 would ruin the finish on the tank and side cover. I had this leak and ran Rotella T6 and it didn't hurt any finishes on my bike. Mine has now been repaired by rebuilding the engine and I plan to continue to run the T6

DC

[slots]

Sam,

Got it. Thanks for the prompt reply.

Slots
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Originally Posted by Silent Sam

Here's The One I Bought...(Amazon.com) BIKER CHOICE Die Cast Mount,
CRANKCASE BREATHER-Replacement
FILTER 74065A

...$10 - $13 plus shipping