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Old 06-21-2015, 09:16 PM   #46
UNCLE WILLIE   UNCLE WILLIE is offline
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oil

just switched to Valvoline 10-40 synthetic bike oil and see no diff. from shell dino or Valvoline dino or Castrol atx.
next im going back to Valvoline dino bike oil with a shot of lucas

fyi - in the 80's there was a test done on oil coolers and the results show 10-40 ran cooler than 20-50. for that reason and others I use the thinnest oil recommended by the factory



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Old 06-21-2015, 09:32 PM   #47
ponch   ponch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcanrider View Post
2011 Amsoil 10-40, doesn't effect warranty...
As long as the oil meets the specs, it shouldn't.
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:37 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNCLE WILLIE View Post
just switched to Valvoline 10-40 synthetic bike oil and see no diff. from shell dino or Valvoline dino or Castrol atx.
next im going back to Valvoline dino bike oil with a shot of lucas

fyi - in the 80's there was a test done on oil coolers and the results show 10-40 ran cooler than 20-50. for that reason and others I use the thinnest oil recommended by the factory
I think Vulcans use 10w-40 for the most part. If you lived somewhere that the temps you rode in were over 100˚, synthetic makes sense. I found with the vulcans I owned that the shifting got a little less smooth and the clutch would get sticky when the engine was cold when the oil started getting broken down and it was getting nigh for a change anyway...
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Old 06-26-2015, 04:49 PM   #49
UNCLE WILLIE   UNCLE WILLIE is offline
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oil

dirty oil works like sandpaper no matter what kind it is
keep it clean--I change @ 3000 max because it gets chewed up in the gear box which lowers the viscosity
in the 60's the Pennzoil rep told me that according to their studies you waste oil if changed before 4000 in cars
the cars I maintain all get changed the week of every season change and it works out to @ 3000+ -- no numbers to keep up with & easy to remember
 
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Old 06-26-2015, 04:58 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNCLE WILLIE View Post
dirty oil works like sandpaper no matter what kind it is
keep it clean--I change @ 3000 max because it gets chewed up in the gear box which lowers the viscosity
in the 60's the Pennzoil rep told me that according to their studies you waste oil if changed before 4000 in cars
the cars I maintain all get changed the week of every season change and it works out to @ 3000+ -- no numbers to keep up with & easy to remember
Newer vehicles have much longer intervals. My 2013 VWs have 10K mile intervals and my RT has 6k mile intervals. The oil never really looks beat in the RT, but it's just engine oil, not shared with the transmission. I use synthetic in both, usually Mobil 1.
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:14 PM   #51
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Quote:
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Newer vehicles have much longer intervals.
Many today have oil life monitors (OLM) that analyse your type of driving (temperature extremes, long highway trips vs. stop and go traffic, etc.) and will tell you when it is time to change. I was looking at an owner's manual for a Ram 1500 with a customer the other day and it stated a MAXIMUM of 16,000 km (10,000 miles) or 1 year between changes if the OLM doesn't tell you before that.

That's expecting a lot out of your oil if you ask me.
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:43 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canuckrider View Post
Many today have oil life monitors (OLM) that analyse your type of driving (temperature extremes, long highway trips vs. stop and go traffic, etc.) and will tell you when it is time to change. I was looking at an owner's manual for a Ram 1500 with a customer the other day and it stated a MAXIMUM of 16,000 km (10,000 miles) or 1 year between changes if the OLM doesn't tell you before that.

That's expecting a lot out of your oil if you ask me.
My Suburban had OLM, but I changed it before at 5000 miles, which was usually every 3-4 months for the most part until the last year I had it. Glad it's gone. The VWs have a service indicator, but it's set to yearly/10K miles. I am doing my Passat this weekend. Mobil 1 0w-40, 6L. That's a lot of oil for a 2.5L engine.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:47 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponch View Post
My Suburban had OLM, but I changed it before at 5000 miles, which was usually every 3-4 months for the most part until the last year I had it. Glad it's gone. The VWs have a service indicator, but it's set to yearly/10K miles. I am doing my Passat this weekend. Mobil 1 0w-40, 6L. That's a lot of oil for a 2.5L engine.
I have never seen a 0 w 40 oil.
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:19 PM   #54
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I have never seen a 0 w 40 oil.
Oh sure. 0w-20 through 50.
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Old 06-26-2015, 11:32 PM   #55
UNCLE WILLIE   UNCLE WILLIE is offline
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all good comments here - the oil now is way superior to a decade ago and beyond and so is engine design - what ive seen is with vehicles with miles on them when the oil gets dirty it starts burning or gets blown out & most times u don't notice until u look at the dipstick--my stuff is older like me so don't have oil monitors - its my personal choice to keep things clean and they last a long time
 
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Old 06-27-2015, 09:33 AM   #56
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Rotella T6 every 5k.
 
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Old 06-27-2015, 11:07 AM   #57
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I run the oily kinda oil, available at your local retailer.

LOL

I have always had one of the most chunkiest shifting 1700 of all the 1700's I have ridden.
YUK!! I recently put in the new Amsoil dirt bike oil, which meets ALL the same specs as the m/c oil but is only rated MA which is the least aggressive clutch friction spec. Amsoil went with this formula to improve "clutch feel' on m/x skoots. Definitely shifts better but i'll have to wait till the skoot gets about 3500 mls on this oil, that's when my skoot would start shifting harder with the m/c oil

I shall see.

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Old 07-01-2015, 12:11 AM   #58
Duc796canada   Duc796canada is offline
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For those that have to store your bikes over winter, do you drain the old oil prior to storage or do you drain it at the beginning of spring prior to riding? I used to drain my monster at the end of the rding season, then put in fresh oil for storage over the winter. I've since heard that is not good??
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:39 AM   #59
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For those that have to store your bikes over winter, do you drain the old oil prior to storage or do you drain it at the beginning of spring prior to riding? I used to drain my monster at the end of the rding season, then put in fresh oil for storage over the winter. I've since heard that is not good??
Change the oil then ride about 5 miles then store it.
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Old 07-01-2015, 05:22 PM   #60
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ran rotella but switched to Mobil1 this time. have actually noticed it will run cooler with the Mobil1 for some reason.
 
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