Anyone had this issue with comander 2 tires

[Dieago62]

Just hit 6000 miles lots tread left but now feels like Im riding on ice or like rear tire is slipping after 30-40 minutes down highway and tire warms up its fine. On blacktop chip rock it feels like I have a flat tire or rear end moving around. Dang its a unnerving feeling .

[blowndodge]

I put 20k miles on mine and they performed great. Never had an issue

[Dieago62]

Originally Posted by blowndodge

I put 20k miles on mine and they performed great. Never had an issue

What pressure did you run in rear?

[ctrider]

I have 11,000 on mine. I run 42rear 40front. They still ride very well although I'm starting to get some slipping on road snakes.

[Loafer]

Check the swingarm.

[Dieago62]

Originally Posted by Loafer

Check the swingarm.

I serviced swing arm two months ago . problem goes away in 20ish miles when tire heats up

[blowndodge]

42 40

[highwayman2011]

No problems with my CII's 40/40

[ndbigfish]

Originally Posted by Dieago62

Just hit 6000 miles lots tread left but now feels like Im riding on ice or like rear tire is slipping after 30-40 minutes down highway and tire warms up its fine. On blacktop chip rock it feels like I have a flat tire or rear end moving around. Dang its a unnerving feeling .

I experienced the same problems as you. They slipped under heavy throttle; even two up. They got increasingly slick as they wore. Like being on ice where it was wet. They were so bad on tar snakes my pillion complained about the extra movement. Final mileage for the rear was only 11,000. I always ran 40 psi in the rear and 36 psi in the front; per bike mfr recommendations. I went to Dunlop American Elites but it hasn't been a good tire either. I have not found tire nirvana.

[tonik]

Originally Posted by ndbigfish

They slipped under heavy throttle; even two up.

I just had this happen. Wet road coming out of a very tight corner (16 in WV) and I rolled on while still in a lean....not that hard as I am not crazy. Back end kicked out a good 6 inches. Happened several times that day. And yea, on tar snakes they just plain suck. Bad.

I am pondering a set of Avon Cobra Radials, they were amazing on grip on my Nomad especially in the rain. Rear is an exact match, but the front would be 150/80/16. About 3/4 of an inch wider, and a tad taller. Still pondering if I want to go that route.

[Scootergptx]

I've had decent success with Shinko 230's on my C90. Grip wise, wet and dry, they were excellent. Wear wise, the rear wasn't a long time tire. Part of that my be the grooved concrete I ride on all the time. 8-10,000 was about it. But they were half the price of other tires. Front tire lasted much longer. Not sure if it makes a difference, but I use balance beads.

I see they don't make a 230 that will fit the rear, but the 777 HD tire does. About $158 for the rear, $114 for the front.

I did see few youtube reviews, one was pretty impressed with the handling. That may be the tire choice I'll be making soon.

[Dieago62]

Thats what mine is doing slipping and all until tire gets hot!
First 6000 miles was fine and that Included two rain rides One up mt evens and thats a hairy rd wet and several hours down interstate at 75mph both in pouring rain no problems but now different story.

[Dieago62]

Scooter I don't mind the cost its the pain in ass to change I hate!
I'm probably going back to a metzler always had pretty good luck with them or I might give the pirelli night dragon a try

[Scootergptx]

Originally Posted by Dieago62

Scooter I don't mind the cost its the pain in ass to change I hate!
I'm probably going back to a metzler always had pretty good luck with them or I might give the pirelli night dragon a try

I had been taking the wheel off and going to a shop and let them remove and replace the tire. Got the bright idea I could do that. Bought a tire changer, then bought the needed attachment for motorcycle tires.

Did it once. They sure made it look easy in the videos I watched.

Sold the tire changer. Managed to make a few dollars on it too.

Waiting to see what all is involved in taking off the rear wheel on this bike. Old C90 was pretty simple.

[tonik]

Originally Posted by Scootergptx

Waiting to see what all is involved in taking off the rear wheel on this bike. Old C90 was pretty simple.

It's not that bad, and not as bad as the list below makes it look. I stole this from another forum and it is the method I have used many times on my Voyager. Your Vaq should be pretty much the same.


1. Lift bike on Center Jack, high enough so that you can put a floor jack under the rear tire. Secure with straps.

2. Remove both saddle bags (3) 10MM bolts each.

3. Remove hex bolts that hold the Plastic Chrome above the top shock bolt - You are not removing the plastic chrome part - just need bolts out so you can get a box end wrench on top shock nut.

4. Unbolt the rear brake caliper leaving the brake hose attached. Using wire or a tie wrap secure the caliper so it is not dangling on hose. (you might have to remove the hose from rubber grommet support.

5. Place a floor jack under the rear tire - handle straight out the back of bike. Jack it up snug (do not lift bike)

Remove Shock Nuts

6. Remove the bottom shock cap nut with a socket - Pay close attention to the order the cap nut and washer come off. You will need to put it back on later.

7. Remove top shock cap nut - Pull back the plastic chrome and use a box end wrench to remove the nut and washer. Make sure you get the same stuff off from the top as you did on the bottom - they are the same except you can't see what you are doing under the plastichrome

8. Pull the shock from the studs - both top and bottom must pull off at same time. You might have to raise or lower the floor jack a tad to remove the shock.

Note - On the shock - there is a sleeve through the bearing on both the top and bottom of the shock - these will come out and should stay in place (grease holds them in) Don't let them fall out - you don't want dirt in the needle bearings that are under the sleeve.

Now the Swing arm with the wheel attached should be able to be jacked up or down without the bike moving on the center jack.

9. Jack up or down to find best access to the rear axle cotter pin - remove.

10. With 1 big wrench and 1 socket with appropriate extensions Loosen the rear axle. Remove castle nut.

Note again - I do not release the wheel alignment adjusters when I remove the rear tire.

11. Jack rear tire up so you can slide the axle out above the mufflers.

12. very slowly remove the axle paying close attention on how the a brake bracket / right adjuster / bushing come out (Yer gonna have to put them back in/ hold them in place while a helper pushes the axle back in during reassembly) ( I set the Right side parts in a pile on the right side of bike and the left side parts on the left - I try to put them right back where I took them off - even though they may be the same both sides.)

13. Once axle is removed the wheel will shift forward - roll floor jack ahead enough to get the belt off from the rear pulley.

14. Lower rear jack - Pull jack backward - rear tire should just roll off from jack and still be under the bike.

Note yet again - the rear pulley is not physically attached to the wheel - it will fall off if you are not careful - just pay attention.

15. Wrestle wheel out from under the bike - trying to keep pulley side of the tire UP.

16. Lay wheel assembly on (2) 2x4's with pulley up and brake rotor down - DO NOT SET on floor on brake rotor with out support.

17. Pull Pulley straight up and remove - and remove the 6 rubber dumaflatchies inside the hub.