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05-06-2017, 04:45 PM | #1 |
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Lunging forward when going to first gear
2005 nomad only 16,000+ miles city driven. It has done this when i let it sit for a long time but not often since i was working every day i rode every day. Now retired since 2014 i dont ride as often. Every morning i do ride, i start her up and when i put her in first, bike lunges forward a foot or so and dies. I start her back up and she shifts perfectly. Clutch has never slipped. After that lunge she is good for the day. But next day she does it again. On rare days no lunging. Ive changed oil(fresh) full synthetic always. I changed dot 4 clutch fluid. Nothing really changes. I know alot of you guys said your nomads do this when they sit over winter. My brother has a 2006 nomad and his has never done it even when sitting for many months. I would appreciate any logical ideas on what i need to be thinking about or what to try before complete clutch replacement. I would prefer the cheaper solutions. Thanks a lot. Dennis
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Last edited by dogdoc; 05-06-2017 at 05:33 PM.
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05-06-2017, 04:50 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Psychiatric Ward FL
Posts: 3,429
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The clutch plates stick together.
If you rock it back and forth it will make the plates move and no more lurching. It's a common occurrence in wet clutch bikes.
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05-06-2017, 04:53 PM | #3 |
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I tried that and some days it works great. Other days it dont help at all. Just hated to rock it back in forth in first gear every morning/
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05-06-2017, 05:19 PM | #4 |
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Location: Newburgh IN
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Try letting it warm up more before putting in gear. Then Pull the clutch lever 3 or 4 times first.
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05-06-2017, 06:06 PM | #6 | |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Too bad that isn't helpful for the OP.
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2003 Nomad 1500 Memphis Shades batwing fairing | Chuckster dual plate BAK | Dobeck EJK | Mustang seat | Victory Boardwalk handlebars | Garry's fork brace with modified KLR fork boots |
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05-06-2017, 06:47 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Tallahassee FL
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I have to hold my clutch in for like 15-20 seconds before shifting into first or I get the clunk and sometimes the lurch. Like MAS says, prob clutch plates stuck together. Maybe start it, pull clutch in, back in out of garage and roll it forward to straighten it up all with the clutch engaged and then shift into first...
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05-07-2017, 02:22 AM | #8 |
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Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
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Crank her up, let her warm up, operate your cutch 3 or 4 times....then drop into 1st and go....
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! |
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05-07-2017, 10:14 AM | #9 |
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I start up the bike, do a walk-a-'round, checking lights and signals, put helmet on, get on bike and pull in the clutch 3~4 times, then hold it in on the last pull, and rock it back and forth 3~4 times, and while moving back, drop it into 1st, hardly ever do I get a lunge. I park on a thin sheet of plywood, and if I don't do this, it'll slide the plywood back about a foot when I drop it into gear.
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05-07-2017, 09:14 PM | #10 |
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Ive also been told to hold front brake lever real tight when you kick it into first. If it does lunge the brake holds it and prevents it front lunging/dying. Thx everybody for your help. I let it warm up today for 2 min. Held front brake tight. Went right into first, no lunge. :-)
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05-07-2017, 09:56 PM | #11 |
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One problem that causes the lung is dry plates. A bike sitting for a week will have the oil drain down out of the plates. Cold oil is thick and takes longer for it to get into all the plates wants the engine is running. Working the clutch helps get the oil between all the plates but it is thick and take a few moments to lube thoroughly. Dyno oil will leave a film on the plate material where as full synthetic will drain off leave dry plates. Go back to dyno or synthetic/dyno blend and I'll bet the problem become a lot less.
With all that said, I cured my lunge by replacing the clutch cylinder fluid. When the fluid is older, it has moisture in it and does not compress as well between the master cylinder and slave cylinder leaving the clutch slave cylinder less compressed as it needs to be,,,, just as old dirty fluid will cause brakes to fade also. Look at the fluid window an the clutch master cylinder and make sure it is almost clear. If it is brownest, change it. All of it, all of it in the line also.
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05-09-2017, 05:31 PM | #12 |
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All I've ever ran is full synthetic Mobil One. Mine doesn't do the lurch at all.
I pull the clutch in even though it's in neutral. By the time I get it cranked and back out it goes into first with no bump.
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05-09-2017, 07:54 PM | #13 |
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Jim thats the way my brother's '06 has worked. My '05 has been different. I have always used full syn Mobil-1 or Rotella T6. When run every day while I was working it was fine. But after retiring and not riding much it started up. If I let it sit for a few weeks back when I was working, it did it. Last two days have worked fine with a good 2 min warm up. Clutch then performs flawlessly.
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05-11-2017, 09:15 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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02 1500 Nomad (07 1600 Motor) 160,000 Red & Black 12" mini apes Galfer lines (6' over) EJK Dobeck Reckless Fairing. Led H4 headlight All LED lights Rockford Fosgate radio |
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