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Old 05-07-2018, 06:35 PM   #16
hammer   hammer is offline
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I now get the air impact ratchet to get the rotor off but I am somewhat mystified how the strap wrench will hold the rotor to get it back on again. It needs 58 ft lbs. I checked the local tool shop and they just don't have a rubber strap wrench big enough.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:00 PM   #17
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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Just put the wheel on the ground and the bike in gear.

It’s worked every time for me.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:10 PM   #18
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OK Mas, maybe I am overthinking this. I thought maybe 58 ftlbs would put a lot of stress on the crank/transmission doing it that way.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:35 PM   #19
duo1983   duo1983 is offline
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what about putting the bike in gear?
 
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Old 05-08-2018, 03:30 AM   #20
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
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I'm not talking about a dinky rubber strap wrench. Go to Home depot, or lowes, get a real strap wrench that as about a 18"-24" handle. Or, go by Harbor Freight, get a alum. handled chain wrench, wrap a leather strap around the rotor, then put chain wrench on it, hit the bolt about 3 sec, and its loose.
El cheapo method, do as MAS said, wheel on ground, put into 1st. gear, and pop bolt loose....
Crankshaft has spline shaft, Rotor is splined, loosen to left. When reinstall, add locktite, then torq. to 58ft/lbs. I just do it so much, I don't even think about the rotation....
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Last edited by DragonLady58; 05-08-2018 at 03:55 AM.
 
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Old 05-08-2018, 06:39 AM   #21
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[QUOTE= loosen to left. When reinstall, add locktite, then torq. to 58ft/lbs. I just do it so much, I don't even think about the rotation....[/QUOTE]

Note: Posted in other thread, but any left hand thread bolt in the manual will have a LH by it in the diagram to note Left Hand thread. Therefore, other bolts are assumed Right Hand thread. Stator diagram shows no LH's. That means stator bolts are all Right Hand thread: (Lefty Loosen/ Righty Tighty.)
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Old 05-09-2018, 06:20 PM   #22
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Rotor came off with rear wheel down, in gear and rear brake on for good measure. Used air gun on my smaller Porter Cable pancake compressor. Yup left loosey.

Lifted the front of the engine after taking the front motor mount bolt out and loosening the rear. Used my old scissor jack and a piece of plywood. You have to be careful there is nothing between the engine case and the front mount on the right hand side. You can only lift up so far until the right side case contacts the mount on the right side too. I just had enough to get the inside stator cover bolt out from the bottom.
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Old 05-10-2018, 01:53 AM   #23
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Just make sure your plug connecters (to regulators and wiring harness) are good and tight. Get a icepick and tighten the internal connectors if needed. Get a tooth pick, with some dielectric grease, put just a dropfull inside the female connectors, little on the outside of the connectors where the wires go in. Gets super dirty under that cover. I myself hardwire my stators on my bike. No Loose Connections....no dirty terminals....
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Don't start no schit,
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*My Sarcasm is directly proportional
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VRA
---------------------
2014 Vaquero
2001 Nomad FI
2003 Street Glide (sold)
1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold)
90s BUBF Bobber (sold)
2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold)
1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold)
1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold)
Suck It Up & Ride!

Last edited by DragonLady58; 05-10-2018 at 01:59 AM.
 
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Old 05-10-2018, 02:16 AM   #24
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Roger that! I have pretty much gone over every accessible connector on the bike. I usually bleed clutch and brakes every winter too so those rectifier, stator and other connectors under the side cover are in good shape.

Hope to button it all back up tomorrow.

Tomorrow, I am going to go get that big strap wrench from Home Depot.

Thanks for the helpful responses.
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Old 05-10-2018, 07:58 AM   #25
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Still pretty deep stuff. I would accuse you of being a Mechanic. Deep fix. Wonder what a shop would charge...and I bet they wouldn't dielectric connections. This has been a great read.
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Old 05-10-2018, 12:39 PM   #26
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From my limited experience, electrical is the least understood and overlooked part of maintaining the bike. I have learned a lot from folks on this forum about this so now it's part of my annual "preventative" maintenance.

I have not got the bike back together yet so I am not celebrating.
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Old 05-10-2018, 12:46 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammer View Post
I have not got the bike back together yet so I am not celebrating.
So what's the hold up? You're retired and have all the time in the world to be wrenching on the bike!
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Old 05-10-2018, 03:09 PM   #28
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Yah thanks bud. But I also have a wife with other ideas for sunny days or any day for that matter. I have been married more than 50 years so it's working.....so far!!!

I have also been helping my former bike mechanic/friend work on his corvette.

At least he has a hydraulic lift system and I have a comfy creeper. I just have trouble getting off and up again

Don't forget to mail that clutch rod seal. I may follow Dragonlady's method and stake the edge of the opening. Preemptive strike.
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Old 05-16-2018, 12:57 AM   #29
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SUCCESS!!!

Got it back together using an HDX Universal strap wrench from Home Depot and torqued up the rotor. Thanks Dragonlady, I am converted. Thanks to all who helped out with this project

Back to 14.3 volts and the headlight is on again. Pretty interesting, I can tell the radio is happier too.

I will try to put a write-up together in a few weeks. Right now, RIDE.
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:53 AM   #30
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Woo - Hoo. Good job. Did you take any before, during, after pics? Before you mowed the grass, during the Honey Doos, after you took the wife shopping? Oh yeah, Mother's Day was in there, that sounds esspensive. Congrats. Enjoy your ride and volts.
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