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10-29-2018, 06:16 AM | #16 |
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Location: West Coast, North Island, New Zealand
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I don't recall sorry, and took no photos during the install. That was 3 1/2 years ago, and 35k km's have passed under the tires since then... I can still ride it under deceleration or with cruise set holding on with very lightly held fingertips, but it really is time I went back in there to check the head nut torque and maybe spread some more grease around.
I'm also thinking that maybe that can wait until the end of our riding season.
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10-29-2018, 09:40 AM | #17 |
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Location: Tallahassee FL
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Just got my Allballs steering head bearings in the mail yesterday (still don’t understand mail delivery on a Sunday). Will be doing mine soon but like Peg may wait so I can ride in the beautiful weather we have now. I replaced them prob about 35k miles ago but am beginning to feel some notching that effects slow speed riding. May take a wknd and do them but it is one of the jobs that I dislike doing and am not impressed with local shop or their price to do.
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10-29-2018, 09:47 AM | #18 |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Minneapolis
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Not seeing any Egg on you.
I learned something not to do. I will Use the new seals for the new bearings now that I know. I feel with out your past experiences I may have used OEM seals myself. Mike07nad had a great post on the install of the forks after the bearings just this week. Other tips I have picked up to make my turn at this go smoother. http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=48058 Now I just need the rest of the puzzle, But the shop manual should work for the removal of the forks and bearing races. Already have the spanner socket, so I do not need to remove the fairing on my Vaquero. Maybe next year I will grow a pair and do it.
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10-29-2018, 11:08 AM | #19 | |
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Marietta, GA
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Quote:
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10-29-2018, 01:55 PM | #20 |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Midwest
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[QUOTE=Now I just need the rest of the puzzle, But the shop manual should work for the removal of the forks and bearing races. Already have the spanner socket, so I do not need to remove the fairing on my Vaquero. Maybe next year I will grow a pair and do it.[/QUOTE]
The fairing can stay on. Remove tank and lay handlebars on frame backbone. I will say - All Balls races are going to be tough to remove. Not as much lip as OEM's. I'm not sure I can get the welder in the neck without burning up some important stuff. It would be great to tack a washer to the race and drive it out. Maybe I can shrink them with the acetylene welding tip. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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10-29-2018, 04:12 PM | #21 |
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Location: Ontario
Posts: 6,949
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A blind puller set is handy for neck and wheel bearings.
Go to 6.30 in the video. An expanding mandrel goes in the race of the bearing. The mandrel has a lip on it that after it is expanded catches the inside of the race or bearing that you want to extract. There are some cheap sets on Ebay that use a slide hammer instead of a bridge puller shown in the video. I got my set on sale from Princess Auto in Canada. https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...et/A-p8104036e Mandrel sizes. 8mm: 5/16"to 13/32"(8-10mm) 10mm: 13/32"to 15/32"(10-12mm) 12mm: 15/32"to 9/16"(12-14mm) 15mm: 19/32"to 11/16"(15-17mm) 17mm: 11/16"to 25/32"(17-20mm) 20mm: 25/32"to 15/16"(20-24mm) 25mm: 1"to 1-1/8"(25-29mm) 30mm: 1-3/16"to 1-1/4"(30-32mm) Harbor Freight probably has something similar ? |
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10-30-2018, 01:35 AM | #22 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
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Well, if you install the allballs, fully seat the races, install with right preload, they'll last quite a few years if lubed correctly....
Once you get a little slack in the bearings and have a hard impact like a tooth jarring pothole, that, can notch your bearings and races....
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! |
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10-30-2018, 04:05 AM | #23 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Coast, North Island, New Zealand
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For getting the old bearing races out, here's an excellent tool it's quite easy to make yourself, or just buy one ready made off EBay.
For seating the new races, cut right through one of the old ones using a Dremel, and use that to push the new one home. I used threaded rod & some large washers, and had the new race in the freezer overnight beforehand.
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Nothing screams poor workmanship like wrinkles in the duct tape '02 1500 blonde Nomad (Sold) '97 800 burgundy Classic (Sold) |
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10-30-2018, 10:27 AM | #24 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Tallahassee FL
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“Just curious: In that 35K miles, how often did you grease the bearings, and how often did you check the torque?”
Sabre-t: a total of zero times. Packed bearings real good, seated them properly and then tightened steering nut until the front end quit clunking and the steering moved correctly and smoothly. Then I rode it...a lot. Just now noticing a notch when riding at slow speeds. |
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10-30-2018, 12:29 PM | #25 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: knoxville tn
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Bearings
40,000 + on origonal head bearings --- lubed and re assembled @ 30,000 --- smooth with no issues and no wobbles --- probably some day will change to roller brgs when needed but not before ---wish they came with rollers from the factory
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10-31-2018, 09:53 PM | #26 |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Midwest
Posts: 273
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OTC Tool saved the day!
All Balls bearing races are flush with the neck. There is only a slight "vee" depression in the bell area behind the race. It is impossible to get a drift on. I had to grind the puller shown to nearly a sharp point to catch in the neck groove. The tool is very durable and did the job effortlessly after modification. It's possible other devices mentioned can work. My guess is they would all need modification.
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11-01-2018, 12:10 AM | #27 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Coast, North Island, New Zealand
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Right... that settles it. When my All Balls steering bearings require replacement, I'm trading the bike.
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Nothing screams poor workmanship like wrinkles in the duct tape '02 1500 blonde Nomad (Sold) '97 800 burgundy Classic (Sold) |
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11-01-2018, 10:36 AM | #28 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Tallahassee FL
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Way ahead of you Peg, already looking!
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11-06-2018, 07:37 AM | #29 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Palmyra, Pa - Near Hershey
Posts: 426
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My thought on that
Quote:
Note - I traded my first one (2009 non-ABS) Because of he wobble. This was before everyone found the AllBalls Bearings. |
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11-07-2018, 04:08 AM | #30 |
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Westlock, Alberta
Posts: 442
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Put in All Balls in my steering head after my accident. I notice no difference at all in how the bike performs. I do prefer this type of bearing though.
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Dave Leyh Edmonton, Alberta 2009 Kawasaki 1700 Vulcan Nomad |
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